|88m, 3 pitches. |
Another of the Main Cliff's big E5s. Start at a left-facing corner just beyond the start of Dinosaur on the sea-level approach, just right of the parallel chimney of Mammoth Direct, E5 6b.
1) 6b, 35m. Move up the corner, which gets harder the higher you go. At the roof, make a sustained traverse left to a rest on the arete. Commit to heading up to a pocket, peg, and try not to linger too long as the crux is reaching the niche above and a semi-rest on good undercuts. From here, power up the fins to the left of a red-coloured groove to reach a small ledge. Belay on the right.
2) 5c, 25m. Move right and climb the rib of the vague groove, until you can move back left into it by a peg. Carry on up the sustained groove and into a narrow left-facing corner, which leads to the spacious ledge of Dinosaur and Positron.
3) 5c, 30m. As for P3 of Dinosaur. © ROCKFAX
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Main Cliff Big E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist.
Photo: Mammoth 1st Pitch © Gezzer
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