Dinosaur*** E5 6a
[wrestling with the dinosaur, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A good introduction to the Main Cliff E5s. The name comes from the long neck and a small brain you'll need for this route. Start beneath the right-hand chimney.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the chimney to where it closes at a steepening. Jam up the short crack (and jam some gear in!) and leave the recess making a hard move to gain the wall on the left. A couple more moves lead to gear and easier climbing which then leads to a small stance.
2) 5c, 30m. Step right into the steep groove, and climb this on reasonable but somewhat creaky holds to good ledges.
3) 5c, 30m. Another creaky pitch that is steep and committing. From the belay, head up and right to reach a short steep wall, climb this to reach the blank corner. Move out right to climb some grooves on the arete, exiting up a shallow groove on the left. Scramble well up the slope to belay on a small rock wall over on the left. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Main Cliff Big E5s, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: wrestling with the dinosaur © jethro kiernan
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 37 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Last of the big five. Fun route!
malx - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/15

P1 only.
NDD - 2nd - 20/Jun/15 with tony stone

Led p1/p3. Spent ages under the overlap getting increasingly hot and bothered and then had to try really hard on the moves out left. The 4c moves to the belay felt hard with no chalk, killer rope drag and unshakable death pump!
nathanlee - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/15 with Katy Whittacker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/14

Ground up. Had tried this with Henry a few days previously but thwarted by terrible conditions. Slightly easier today but still very greasy and seeping - should have waited for better connies really. Fantastic crux and 'spooky' P2. Fairly sure I could have onsighted this but oh well. Led P1 and P3
Tom Livingstone - Lead G/U - 31/May/14 with Jack Lawledge

Epic route!
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Luke

Luke Brooks - AltLd - 18/Apr/14 with Glyn Hudson

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 03/Aug/13 with Gareth E

very wet and greasy - fun!
soph - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Helena Robinson

Fell off at crux 2 years ago. Felt good to smash it today in super greasy conditions. Groove pitch is an ace E2/3 5b.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 09/Apr/13 with Fingers

just a couple of greasy holds near the top of the chimney. thought the 2nd pitch was worth e3 on its own.
switch - Lead rpt - 29/Jul/12 with Pete M

wet and slippy
mwatson - Lead dnf - 25/Feb/12 with johnny

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2012

GeoffG - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Ground up. Greasy conditions.
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2011 with Sam Underhill

I attempted pitch one and fell off near the top and lowered off. James got it clean next go.
Brown - AltLd RP - 13/Oct/10 with James T

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Joe Bawden

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Craig Smith

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2010 with dave brown

Seymore Butt - 2009

Chris M - 2009

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/07 with Andy Cave & Pete Robins

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005 with Nic Sellers

superb
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Viv

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/99

shark - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/97

fell off the first pitch after going straight up past the traverse right. Should have read the guide lol.
Steve Walker - AltLd - 1993 with stuart muir

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/90

Mike Owen - 24/May/89 with Duncan Potter

Al led the main first pitch, I got the weird second one.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/88 with al phizacklea

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

keefe - 05/Jul/86 with Johnny Adams

Only just made it to the stance! Followed Parky up Positron next.
Chris Craggs - Lead O/S - 1980 with Graham Parkes

Lead the first pitch with the standard aid of the time (and hated it) - Mick used the same situ sling and swung into space as it broke! Second pitch looked desperate & we were both spooked - decided to give up (and secretly never wanted to return).
petemeads - Lead dnf - Jul/75 with Mick Brady

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ianstevens, reima, Andrew Wilson, rustaldo, centurion05, datoon, Billg

Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard E60 of 5
E60 of 5
easy E60 of 5
hard E50 of 5
E55 of 5
easy E50 of 5
hard E40 of 5
E40 of 5
easy E40 of 5
hard 6b0 of 5
6b0 of 5
easy 6b1 of 5
hard 6a2 of 5
6a2 of 5
easy 6a0 of 5
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
3 Stars4 of 5
2 Stars1 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP
DNF