6 pitches. Starts on the ledge just past the Gogarth pinnacle. If the tides in you'll be able to do the first pitch of Gogarth instead. Crux can be greasy so pay attention to the conditions. The chimney is 'fragile' but has reasonable protection.

Great route, solid E3

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Mark Grist 22/May AltLd dog

Disappointed to have to sit on gear on the second pitch. Very greasy conditions. Should have waited until later in the day. Found the third pitch quite harrowing.....even to second.

with Tom Doldon
Tom Doldon 21/May AltLd dog

Had to pull on a sling on crux pitch. Was very greasy and damp. I lead the second pitch which was scary. Didn't like the route much.

manwithacam 15/May AltLd

Pretty full on route, knackered by the top. The two easier top pitches are no pushover, and the penultimate 4c crack is a great pitch in its own right. Alan led the 5c pitch with style, I was happy to get up the chimney in one piece. Good adventure, and great full on day at Gogarth with almost perfect conditions. Psyched.

with Alan
Glyn 04/May AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/May AltLd
with Ben Heason, Snort
Duncan Campbell 02/May AltLd O/S

After Clare's 30th on Saturday night we felt a little tired so opted for this rather than something more meaty. Glad we did as I really enjoyed this despite certainly not feeling on top form. Led p2 and 4. Maddy got a bit wet on the top pitch but fortunately it blew over! The chimney isn't as bad as I always feared it would be.

with Maddy C
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
robpartridge 27/Sep/15 AltLd
GraMc 27/Sep/15 Lead

hmm. cool route although I pulled off a block ( which had all my gear behind) on the final easy pitch. took the biggest fall of my life. very happy to walk away relatively unscathed

with rob
Ed Babs 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Alternative P1 of Gogarth at high tide & P3 chimney - not as bad as it looks. Then abb'd off the spike: 50m ropes ok if you head slightly right (looking in) to reach the ledges left of the pinnacle.

shaunhumphreys 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

after much discussion about how scary it sounded we ended up committing!! Wasnt as bad as guide makes out to be but was still pretty mega! lead P2 and 5 (ben strung 3&4 together) climbing got abit dull after pitch 3 but still worth it!

benkelsey 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Got the chimney pitch. Not as scary as the guide makes out but fully out there. Good route Shame the meat of its at the bottom.

with Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 13/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
soph 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

Finished up last pitch of gogarth. Would make sense to link pitches 1 and 2 but the belay allowed for some great pics!

with Maria Pilarski
Hidden ??/2015 -
Ewan Russell 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

2nd, 3rd, and 6th.

with Tom Nichols
Hidden 15/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 11/Jul/14 2nd β
with Khalid, James Machaffie
khalidq 11/Jul/14 2nd dog

Great route marred only by my fall.

with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
Ben1983 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

But conspicuously failed to second p2.

markalmack 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

lead p2,3,4,6

with Ben
The old James turnbull 06/Jun/14 AltLd

One star here you kidding? Amazing route, I lead pitch 1 and 2 in one, no point in the first belay. John dealt with the chimney which is much better than it looks. You don't have to touch much of the loose stuff. Great couple of days

with John Crook
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd
tebs 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Big route. Very adventurous feel. Added the last pitch of devotee for a more sustained and even set of pitches. Adam led this and the chimney (omg) Sadie led pitches 1 and 5. I led the big pitch 2 and the crucial 8m downwards pitch. P2 was fully eyes on stalks trying as hard as possible. Pretty greasy but not terminal, doubled up on green dragons which proved absolutely essential as I placed both in the space of a foot while shouting "help! I'm off". Must learn to keep the self talk a bit more positive!

with Sadie, Adam
Simon Allcock ??/2014 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 5. fell on pitch 2 (crux)

with Wilki
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
wi11 13/Oct/13 AltLd dog

P2 fell of the crux, greasy P4 & P6 Long day! Super tired by the end of it, maybe not the best route to try having not cimbed for a while!

with Gwen L
breed 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
ellis 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd
mark20 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
petekeron 22/Oct/12 AltLd O/S


with Jamie Barclay
JRae 06/Oct/12 AltLd

Good route, has everything.

with Liam P
Hidden 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Sep/12 Lead


with ben
Alex Mason 03/May/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route. A contender for the wildest E3 in Wales. Led the chimney pitch which is superb. What the fuck was Joe thinking when he set off up here? Legend.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Dangerous Dave 30/May/11 AltLd dog

Fell on the crux due to the mega grease!!

with Wild Beast
Adam Lincoln 29/May/11 AltLd

Skinhead was greasy as hell so bailed up this

with Mick Lovatt
centurion05 24/May/11 AltLd

Top route, great effort by owain. The crux is great and the chimney interesting. Worth E3 in my book.

with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 24/May/11 AltLd

A proper Gogarth day out!

with Andy
Martin Cleaver 13/May/11 2nd O/S
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 13/May/11 Lead O/S
with martin cleaver
Pete Graham 01/May/11 AltLd
with Rick Graham
david morse 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Tried to run 1+2 together but went a bit high on the initial traverse. Placed too much kit and had to belay half way along p2. This meant I had to lead the chimney, a harrowing experience!

stevebarratt 19/Apr/11 AltLd
thomasadixon 26/Mar/11 Lead dog

Tried to avoid the wetness at the end of pitch 2 (we only did 1&2) and came off, used the holds in the roof and it was easy...shame.

with Mike
Anna_wells 26/Mar/11 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
gforce 19/Aug/10 Lead

Rained off the last pitch so didn't complete the route but had done the meat of it. A lifeboat came across to make sure we were ok once we had abseiled to the bottom again!

with Kath
mikeyjbs 30/Jun/10 AltLd dog
with christopher glasson
Hidden 18/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 23/Apr/10 AltLd
Pown 07/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
khawk 27/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with DT
Luke Brooks 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Francis
dodfoster 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with george ullrich and sam farnsworth
fennerz 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing climbing. linked pitch 1 & 2 together, Ed lead them, bit greasy the chhimny pitch was soooo ace! Dropped my shoe off the top :(

Ed Booth 02/May/09 Lead O/S

led all the main pitches and tom led the top pitch of gogarth to finish. Super greasy at crux, but amazing route. psyched for the e5's!

with Fennerz
mattyork2 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

1st, 2nd and fourth of five pitches. Found the 5c crux pitch hard and took several reverses before unlocking it. Overhanging chimney/crack must be really scary on the lead and the lats pitch felt no push over either. A good day- pleased to get out depsite ominous weather it was ultimately beautiful.

with John Vincent
Bristoldave 12/Apr/09 AltLd dnf

Spanked! Fell leading traverse, finished pitch, but neither of us fancied the chimney.

with douglas
Hidden 12/Apr/09 AltLd dnf
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Brown 12/May/08 AltLd O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 08/Jul/07 AltLd


with Dave Almomd
Hidden 28/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
haydng ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Si
nickdonohue ?/Jun/04 Lead dog

Rested on pitch 2. Unfortunately from pinnacle I went too vertical at first (burning out on E5 ground!). Need to keep traversing left...

with Jim Barradale
Gus 24/May/03 Lead O/S
with Rich Pickford
frost ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with J Hubbard
Hidden 22/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 06/May/02 2nd
with KM
PaulTanton 04/May/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
mux ??/2001 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 29/May/00 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
WB ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Jez
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd dog

wet on crux..

Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead
Ched ??/1998 AltLd
with Mark Hamilton
Hidden 20/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
sadams 09/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Mar/97 AltLd

Atmospheric in wild weather

with Muir Morton
steveb2006 05/May/96 Lead

Will leads first pitch. Go wrong on main pitch - taking line of Original Route before realising my mistake. Tired but manage the moves round the undercling ok. The overhanginmg a chimney is a fight

with Will Harding
Nick Biven ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Tim Emmett
crossleysm ?/Apr/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
mattnuttall 22/Jun/93 AltLd O/S

lead P1 (5c)

with Alan Holden
Hidden 26/May/90 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
steveb2006 01/May/88 AltLd

A minor epic as squally showers slow things down! Lead the main pitch and the chimney!

with Mike Pycroft
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
with Grant Farquar
keefe 04/May/86 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 26/Aug/84 Lead O/S

I led both main pitches. Big Route!

with Pete Finklaire
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1983 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Mark Kemball 25/Jul/82 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
Ian Jones ??/1982 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
charlesmfrench 29/Nov/81 AltLd O/S

L,2,2,L,L,2. Again on 5/7/97 with Mark. 2,L,2,L,L.

with Ian Milne
Falko ??/1981 AltLd O/S

Same day as Big Groove and Pentathol

with Howard Lancashire
uphillnow 11/Jul/80 AltLd

Nigel got 5c pitch but mugged me into leading pitch 3 as he had been told it was scary

with Nigel Helliwell
William Robertson ?/Jul/80 Lead O/S


neilh ?/Jun/80 AltLd
with kevin glass
Hidden 31/May/80 2nd
mikej 11/Aug/79 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Mike Owen 23/Jun/79 -
with Gavin Peat
steve L 06/May/79 Lead
with Morty
Hidden ??/1978 AltLd
Falko 12/Apr/75 AltLd

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".

with Howard Lancashire
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E4
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High 6a
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