Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff >
 
The Rat Race* E3 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Ordinary Route
 
Bubbly Situation Blues >>
6 pitches. Starts on the ledge just past the Gogarth pinnacle. If the tides in you'll be able to do the first pitch of Gogarth instead. Crux can be greasy so pay attention to the conditions. The chimney is 'fragile' but has reasonable protection. Great route, solid E3

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 97 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14

P2 fell of the crux, greasy P4 & P6 Long day! Super tired by the end of it, maybe not the best route to try having not cimbed for a while!
wi11 - AltLd dog - 13/Oct/13 with Gwen L

breed - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13

ellis - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Tom Bridgeland

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/13

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13

M
petekeron - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12 with Jamie Barclay

Good route, has everything.
JRae - AltLd - 06/Oct/12 with Liam P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12

classy
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Sep/12 with ben

Amazing route. A contender for the wildest E3 in Wales. Led the chimney pitch which is superb. What the fuck was Joe thinking when he set off up here? Legend.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/May/12 with Jon Ratcliffe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Helen Pitt

Fell on the crux due to the mega grease!!
Dangerous Dave - AltLd dog - 30/May/11 with Wild Beast

Skinhead was greasy as hell so bailed up this
Adam Lincoln - AltLd - 29/May/11 with Mick Lovatt

Top route, great effort by owain. The crux is great and the chimney interesting. Worth E3 in my book.
centurion05 - AltLd - 24/May/11 with Owain

A proper Gogarth day out!
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 24/May/11 with Andy

Martin Cleaver - 2nd O/S - 13/May/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/May/11 with martin cleaver

Pete Graham - AltLd - 01/May/11 with Rick Graham

Tried to run 1+2 together but went a bit high on the initial traverse. Placed too much kit and had to belay half way along p2. This meant I had to lead the chimney, a harrowing experience!
david morse - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with stevebarratt

stevebarratt - AltLd - 19/Apr/11 with Dave Morse

Tried to avoid the wetness at the end of pitch 2 (we only did 1&2) and came off, used the holds in the roof and it was easy...shame.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11 with Mike

Anna_wells - 2nd - 26/Mar/11 with Rob Greenwood

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rained off the last pitch so didn't complete the route but had done the meat of it. A lifeboat came across to make sure we were ok once we had abseiled to the bottom again!
gforce - Lead - 19/Aug/10 with Kath

mikeyjbs - AltLd dog - 30/Jun/10 with christopher glasson

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/10

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/10

Pown - 2nd - 07/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

khawk - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with DT

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Francis

dodfoster - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with george ullrich and sam farnsworth

Absolutely amazing climbing. linked pitch 1 & 2 together, Ed lead them, bit greasy the chhimny pitch was soooo ace! Dropped my shoe off the top :(
fennerz - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Ed Booth

led all the main pitches and tom led the top pitch of gogarth to finish. Super greasy at crux, but amazing route. psyched for the e5's!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Fennerz

1st, 2nd and fourth of five pitches. Found the 5c crux pitch hard and took several reverses before unlocking it. Overhanging chimney/crack must be really scary on the lead and the lats pitch felt no push over either. A good day- pleased to get out depsite ominous weather it was ultimately beautiful.
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with John Vincent

Spanked! Fell leading traverse, finished pitch, but neither of us fancied the chimney.
Bristoldave - AltLd dnf - 12/Apr/09 with douglas

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Apr/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Brown - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/07

Fabulous
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 08/Jul/07 with Dave Almomd

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/07

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Si

Gus - Lead O/S - 24/May/03 with Rich Pickford

frost - AltLd - Aug/02 with J Hubbard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/02

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 04/May/02 with Chris Reid

Steve Crowe - 2nd - May/02 with KM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

mux - AltLd O/S - 2001 with Simon Frost

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 29/May/00 with Hugh

WB - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Jez

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

wet on crux..
Tim M - AltLd dog - 2000

Ian Jones - Lead - 1999

Ched - AltLd - 1998 with Mark Hamilton

sadams - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Atmospheric in wild weather
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 01/Mar/97 with Muir Morton

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/96

Nick Biven - AltLd O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/95

Cowflinger - AltLd O/S - Oct/94 with Tim Emmett

Hidden - Lead - 1994

lead P1 (5c)
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/90

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/88

mark mcgowan01 - 1987 with Grant Farquar

keefe - 04/May/86

andy gittins - 1985

I led both main pitches. Big Route!
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/84 with Pete Finklaire

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1983 with Phillippa Mathews

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 25/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

L,2,2,L,L,2. Again on 5/7/97 with Mark. 2,L,2,L,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/81 with Ian Milne

Same day as Big Groove and Pentathol
Falko - AltLd O/S - 1981 with Howard Lancashire

Nigel got 5c pitch but mugged me into leading pitch 3 as he had been told it was scary
David Smith - AltLd - 11/Jul/80 with Nigel Helliwell

Pete
William Robertson - Lead O/S - Jul/80

neilh - AltLd - Jun/80 with kevin glass

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/80

mikej - AltLd - 11/Aug/79 with Mike Byles

Mike Owen - 23/Jun/79 with Gavin Peat

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".
Falko - AltLd - 12/Apr/75 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andrew Wilson, Martin Haworth, owain86, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 61
hard E40 of 21
E40 of 21
easy E40 of 21
hard E34 of 21
E311 of 21
easy E35 of 21
hard E21 of 21
E20 of 21
easy E20 of 21
hard 6a0 of 21
6a0 of 21
easy 6a0 of 21
hard 5c2 of 21
5c18 of 21
easy 5c1 of 21
hard 5b0 of 21
5b0 of 21
easy 5b0 of 21
3 Stars9 of 19
2 Stars6 of 19
1 Star3 of 19
0 Stars1 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Lead20 of 97 (20.6%)
Followed5 of 97 (5.2%)
Alt Leads55 of 97 (56.7%)
Unknown17 of 97 (17.5%)

'Climbed'50 of 97 (51.5%)
clean O/S40 of 97 (41.2%)
dogged5 of 97 (5.2%)
dnf2 of 97 (2.1%)