The Rat Race** E3 5c
6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Steep, sustained and frightening. Start from the left side of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide the ledge at the top of P1 can be gained by climbing over the pinnacle.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb slightly left up a steep wall, then head diagonally right to gain a large platform left of the pinnacle.
2) 5c, 30m. A cracking pitch, step left off the ledge and follow a diagonally line of weakness left passing a hard move to gain a chimney groove. Struggle up this to the overhang that curves up and left. This can sometimes be damp, try to ignore this and the rising panic as you become pumped, and follow the overlap up and left to a steep slab. Pull up and right across the slab to a gain a good stance below the rather ominous-looking chimney.
3) 5b, 25m. Another worrying pitch. Climb the chimney above. It is steep, strenuous and bold, not to mention a little friable in places. Reach the slab above by exiting the crack rightwards. Belay on the top of the slab.
4) 8m. Move down and right along the flake, to a belay at the base of the corner.
5) 4c, 13m. Climb the steep corner to a belay on the top of the upper pinnacle on Gogarth.
6) 5a, 28m. Move down left and traverse the wall to the foot of a crack. Take this to where it divides and follow the right fork until it is possible to move left round a rib to reach an easier crack. Belay well up the slope. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Starts on the ledge just past the Gogarth pinnacle. If the tides in you'll be able to do the first pitch of Gogarth instead. Crux can be greasy so pay attention to the conditions. The chimney is 'fragile' but has reasonable protection.

Great route, solid E3

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's.

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This climb is in 120 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

robpartridge - AltLd - 27/Sep/15 with Graham McGrath

hmm. cool route although I pulled off a block ( which had all my gear behind) on the final easy pitch. took the biggest fall of my life. very happy to walk away relatively unscathed
Ginger McGrath - Lead - 27/Sep/15 with rob

Alternative P1 of Gogarth at high tide & P3 chimney - not as bad as it looks. Then abb'd off the spike: 50m ropes ok if you head slightly right (looking in) to reach the ledges left of the pinnacle.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/15 with Iain Moodie

after much discussion about how scary it sounded we ended up committing!! Wasnt as bad as guide makes out to be but was still pretty mega! lead P2 and 5 (ben strung 3&4 together) climbing got abit dull after pitch 3 but still worth it!
shaunhumphreys - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/15 with benkelsey

Got the chimney pitch. Not as scary as the guide makes out but fully out there. Good route Shame the meat of its at the bottom.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/15 with Shaun Humphreys

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/15

Finished up last pitch of gogarth. Would make sense to link pitches 1 and 2 but the belay allowed for some great pics!
soph - AltLd O/S - 16/May/15 with Maria Pilarski

Hidden - 2015

2nd, 3rd, and 6th.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Tom Nichols

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/14

Dan Vaj - 2nd β - 11/Jul/14 with Khalid, James Machaffie

Great route marred only by my fall.
khalidq - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/14 with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic

But conspicuously failed to second p2.
Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14

lead p2,3,4,6
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Ben

One star here you kidding? Amazing route, I lead pitch 1 and 2 in one, no point in the first belay. John dealt with the chimney which is much better than it looks. You don't have to touch much of the loose stuff. Great couple of days
jamesturnbull - AltLd - 06/Jun/14 with John Crook

Hidden - 2nd - May/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14

I led pitches 1 and 5. fell on pitch 2 (crux)
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 2014 with Wilki

Allanfairfechan - 2014

P2 fell of the crux, greasy P4 & P6 Long day! Super tired by the end of it, maybe not the best route to try having not cimbed for a while!
wi11 - AltLd dog - 13/Oct/13 with Gwen L

breed - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13

ellis - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Tom Bridgeland

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/13

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13

petekeron - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/12 with Jamie Barclay

Good route, has everything.
JRae - AltLd - 06/Oct/12 with Liam P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12

w.pettet-smith - Lead - Sep/12 with ben

Amazing route. A contender for the wildest E3 in Wales. Led the chimney pitch which is superb. What the fuck was Joe thinking when he set off up here? Legend.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/May/12 with Jon Ratcliffe

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Helen Pitt

Fell on the crux due to the mega grease!!
Dangerous Dave - AltLd dog - 30/May/11 with Wild Beast

Skinhead was greasy as hell so bailed up this
Adam Lincoln - AltLd - 29/May/11 with Mick Lovatt

Top route, great effort by owain. The crux is great and the chimney interesting. Worth E3 in my book.
centurion05 - AltLd - 24/May/11 with Owain

A proper Gogarth day out!
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 24/May/11 with Andy

Martin Cleaver - 2nd O/S - 13/May/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/May/11 with martin cleaver

Pete Graham - AltLd - 01/May/11 with Rick Graham

Tried to run 1+2 together but went a bit high on the initial traverse. Placed too much kit and had to belay half way along p2. This meant I had to lead the chimney, a harrowing experience!
david morse - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with stevebarratt

stevebarratt - AltLd - 19/Apr/11 with Dave Morse

Tried to avoid the wetness at the end of pitch 2 (we only did 1&2) and came off, used the holds in the roof and it was easy...shame.
thomasadixon - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11 with Mike

Anna_wells - 2nd - 26/Mar/11 with Rob Greenwood

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rained off the last pitch so didn't complete the route but had done the meat of it. A lifeboat came across to make sure we were ok once we had abseiled to the bottom again!
gforce - Lead - 19/Aug/10 with Kath

mikeyjbs - AltLd dog - 30/Jun/10 with christopher glasson

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/10

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/10

Pown - 2nd - 07/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

khawk - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with DT

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Francis

dodfoster - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with george ullrich and sam farnsworth

Absolutely amazing climbing. linked pitch 1 & 2 together, Ed lead them, bit greasy the chhimny pitch was soooo ace! Dropped my shoe off the top :(
fennerz - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Ed Booth

led all the main pitches and tom led the top pitch of gogarth to finish. Super greasy at crux, but amazing route. psyched for the e5's!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Fennerz

1st, 2nd and fourth of five pitches. Found the 5c crux pitch hard and took several reverses before unlocking it. Overhanging chimney/crack must be really scary on the lead and the lats pitch felt no push over either. A good day- pleased to get out depsite ominous weather it was ultimately beautiful.
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with John Vincent

Spanked! Fell leading traverse, finished pitch, but neither of us fancied the chimney.
Bristoldave - AltLd dnf - 12/Apr/09 with douglas

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Apr/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Brown - AltLd O/S - 12/May/08

Matt Vigg - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/07

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 08/Jul/07 with Dave Almomd

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/07

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Si

Rested on pitch 2. Unfortunately from pinnacle I went too vertical at first (burning out on E5 ground!). Need to keep traversing left...
nickdonohue - Lead dog - Jun/04 with Jim Barradale

Gus - Lead O/S - 24/May/03 with Rich Pickford

frost - AltLd - Aug/02 with J Hubbard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/02

Steve Crowe - 2nd - 06/May/02 with KM

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 04/May/02 with Chris Reid

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

mux - AltLd O/S - 2001 with Simon Frost

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 29/May/00 with Hugh

WB - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Jez

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

wet on crux..
Tim M - AltLd dog - 2000

Ian Jones - Lead - 1999

Ched - AltLd - 1998 with Mark Hamilton

sadams - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/97 with John Boyle

Atmospheric in wild weather
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 01/Mar/97 with Muir Morton

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/96

Nick Biven - AltLd O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/95

Cowflinger - AltLd O/S - Oct/94 with Tim Emmett

Hidden - Lead - 1994

lead P1 (5c)
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/90

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/88

mark mcgowan01 - 1987 with Grant Farquar

keefe - 04/May/86

andy gittins - 1985

I led both main pitches. Big Route!
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/84 with Pete Finklaire

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1983 with Phillippa Mathews

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 25/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

L,2,2,L,L,2. Again on 5/7/97 with Mark. 2,L,2,L,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 29/Nov/81 with Ian Milne

Same day as Big Groove and Pentathol
Falko - AltLd O/S - 1981 with Howard Lancashire

Nigel got 5c pitch but mugged me into leading pitch 3 as he had been told it was scary
uphillnow - AltLd - 11/Jul/80 with Nigel Helliwell

William Robertson - Lead O/S - Jul/80

neilh - AltLd - Jun/80 with kevin glass

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/80

mikej - AltLd - 11/Aug/79 with Mike Byles

Mike Owen - 23/Jun/79 with Gavin Peat

steve L - Lead - 06/May/79 with Morty

Hidden - AltLd - 1978

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".
Falko - AltLd - 12/Apr/75 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andrew Wilson, Martin Haworth, owain86, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 72
hard E40 of 25
E40 of 25
easy E40 of 25
hard E35 of 25
E314 of 25
easy E35 of 25
hard E21 of 25
E20 of 25
easy E20 of 25
hard 6a0 of 25
6a0 of 25
easy 6a0 of 25
hard 5c4 of 25
5c20 of 25
easy 5c1 of 25
hard 5b0 of 25
5b0 of 25
easy 5b0 of 25
3 Stars12 of 22
2 Stars6 of 22
1 Star3 of 22
0 Stars1 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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