Rockfax Description
A good strenuous second pitch which can be overgrown.
1) 5a, 12m. As for Rat Race.
2) 6a, 50m. Follow the steep groove on the left to a respite. More steep climbing gains a smelly ledge. Continue up an easier groove to ledges and a poor belay on the right. Step left and follow the technical groove for a few metres. The original line is up the lichenous slab. Better is to go right to unprotected but easier overgrown rock up to a belay on Cordon Bleu.
3) 65m. Finish up Cordon Bleu or The Rat Race. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A good strenuous first pitch, but the second pitch is very overgrown. Start from the first stance of Rat Race, a ledge on the pinnacle.
1.25m. 6a. Follow the steep groove on the left of the ledge to a respite, then steep again above in a good position to gain a smelly ledge. Continue up the easier groove to gain ledges and a mediocre belay on the right (friend 0, couple of ok wires).
2. A bit of a blind alley. Step back left and follow the technical groove for a few m. Either attempt to follow the original line, left across the thin totally lichenous slab to the top of the Rat Race chimney, or bail out right to unprotected but easier overgrown rock up to a belay on Cordon Bleu. The cleaner continuation groove is the obvious line but desperate and unprotected
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)