UKC

3833m. From the Turtmann Hut. Ascend the path from the hut, try not to miss the equipped route on the right (rails/chains) in the dark that allows you to bypass a loose gully, carry onto the moraine and join the Brunegg glacier at around 3000m on the true right (North) bank.

Ascend the glacier, and trend left to cross under small seracs to the steeper snow, just to the right (South) of the rock steps. Alternatively ascend to the Bruneggjoch and skirt round the base of the NW ridge.

Ascend snow slopes to the SW ridge, and follow up to the summit cross. The upper slopes can be icy in late season.

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