UKC

Rockfax Description
An excellent route, much better than the original version. The route has suffered a big rockfall but isn't badly affected.
1) 5b, 43m. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Head up this then a crack with a big rock scar on its right until just past a new roof on the right where the original groove reappears and shortly after moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2) 5b, 48m. Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right and climb it to a hard move to reach a flake/crack on the left. Climb this (possible belay) then launch left up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1. 43m. 5a. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2. 48m. 5b (can feel harder when greasy). Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right, climb it past a trying section to reach a flake crack on the left. Up this (possible belay for masochists) then launch leftwards up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Big Routes 2020 , Gogarth life list

Feedback

User Date Notes
gem_stone12 16 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
gem_stone12 16 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
gem_stone12 15 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
Larry Benoy 8 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Looks to have been an incredibly recent rockfall directly above the start of P1. Still some very large and loose looking blocks around that would clear out anything/one that was unfortunate enough to be below them. If possible, look for a belay slightly further left than guidebooks might suggest just to be out of the fall line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks to have been an incredibly recent rockfall directly above the start of P1. Still some very large and loose looking blocks around that would clear out anything/one that was unfortunate enough to be below them. If possible, look for a belay slightly further left than guidebooks might suggest just to be out of the fall line.
Tim Neill 1 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Has been a decent and recent rockfall (probably last night!) just to the right of the first pitch. Rubble all over the ledges below. Route seemed unaffected although a bit dusty low down.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has been a decent and recent rockfall (probably last night!) just to the right of the first pitch. Rubble all over the ledges below. Route seemed unaffected although a bit dusty low down.
andi turner 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like some recent rock scaring above the first little overhang. Some looseness remains. Belayed on solid spikes up to the right of the normal belay (approximately level with the top of the flake/blade, 6 feet to the right) which reduced rope drag and communication issues.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like some recent rock scaring above the first little overhang. Some looseness remains. Belayed on solid spikes up to the right of the normal belay (approximately level with the top of the flake/blade, 6 feet to the right) which reduced rope drag and communication issues.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E1
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High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 108
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Primate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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