Diagonal Gully** III
[Final ramp of Diagonal Gully, 2 kb]The obvious icy diagonal gully

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Final ramp of Diagonal Gully © hwackerhage
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 36 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

1st pitch was bare and marginal, top 2 pitches were wild.
ross brinson - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/15 with James

Hard Grade III on the day. Route fully in. Waterfall at bottom was tough. Climbed with straight shaft axes.
jamesofdeath - 2nd dog - 04/Feb/15 with Dave Slade

Taking someone on their first winter route. Wild weather but OK conditions. 1st pitch was thin, only 2 screws in 30m and one of those tied off. Not much gear on the rest of the route either (I used a dead man 3 times!), because of this I give it a hard III but good. Top part much more consolidated now and easy. BTW 6 pitches if you pitch the snow bay/gully which is 2 full 60m pitches.
QuicNic - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/15

My first winter climb! Throughably enjoyable despite the weather.
Calum3610 - 2nd - 31/Jan/15 with QuicNic

Third time lucky for myself! Mostly decent snow/ice apart from the last 60 metres which was an unconsolidated struggle. Much thaw/freeze needed high up!
konacol - AltLd - 24/Jan/15 with Danny Doran

I loved this climb, so much that I have bothered to enter it; I'm a very passive UKC member. Climbed as a three (just after the guys on the last entry :-)) must agree the last two pitches were not in good condition at all and the sensible option might have been retreat down another gully as an even earlier team found this year. But these things happen and it made for an exciting ending. Also think it's a high 3 or low 4 in that state. Finished in the dark and walked off down the scorrie. Never been to this Glen and think it's beautiful.
clipper2 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/15

Fantastic weather, conditions ok, good ice in some places, reasonable in others. Great route!
Tobes - AltLd - 01/Apr/13 with the other Mike

Martin85 - 28/Mar/13

I lead P 2, then down Backdoor Gully to climb Backdoor Chimney. Ice not as good as 2 days ago, but still good.
Yourlead - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with Graham Penny

Climbing as a 3with Graham leading 1st 2 pitch's after which unroofed up to the basin and down Backdoor Gully (dodgy snow above) Really nice ice on the slab and in the chimney. Really deep snow on approach and great bum slide on the return.
Yourlead - 2nd - 31/Jan/13 with Paul Freeman, Graham Penny

Nice ice formed but also heaps of snow which could do with some freeze-thaw to consolidate. 3hrs wading through snow from car park to crag!
DundeeDave - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/13 with Ewan Gourlay

the ice is melting, dubious screw placements, thin in places. nice route. i led the snow slope but im still getting the alt lead!
franksnb - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/12 with robbie

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/12 with James Franklin

Started on Back door Chimney as the top of the lower half didn't look in.
rugbydick - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/12

mshorter - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/11 with erika

joeydurkin - AltLd - 06/Jan/11 with Adam

great wee route with good belays/gear and steep ice steps, pushing IV/4 me thinks in current nick!
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/11 with Alex

khawk - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11 with DT

jolly - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11

andrew75 - Lead - 2011

Hidden - Lead - Feb/10

excellent varied route, good conditions
abbeywall - AltLd - 30/Jan/10 with K

2 pitches, abalakov abseil after avalanche from the basin. then done the waterfall (2)
nicjbuk - AltLd - 30/Dec/09

Quality route
Sandy Simpson - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/09 with Neil Morrison

Did the first two pitches to access Wildcat Wall
IceBun - 27/Dec/09 with Sandy Simpson

Richard Weller - 10/Feb/09 with Ruth Love

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/08

P1 only. Good steep thin ice to start, but well out of condition above. Had to leave gear and retreat.
Andy Clarke - Lead dnf - 06/Mar/05 with Rob

Ben lad - 2003

oor wullie - Lead - 2000 with Neil Batchelor

graeme gatherer - 2000

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 27/Dec/99 with Jenny Kerr

Thin conditions and a wild day
Yourlead - AltLd - 06/Feb/99 with Graham Penny

Hidden - Feb/97

TobyA - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/97 with Ed, Olly

nickcanute - AltLd - Feb/96 with tim parkinson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, Martin85, goingupintheworld, andymoin

Voting
Total votes cast 13
hard IV0 of 7
IV1 of 7
easy IV1 of 7
hard III3 of 7
III2 of 7
easy III0 of 7
hard II/III0 of 7
II/III0 of 7
easy II/III0 of 7
3 Stars5 of 6
2 Stars1 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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