The obvious icy diagonal gully

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter.


ClimberDateStyle
JamesLamont 07/Mar 2nd

Climbed at night. Got onto the route at 20:45. First pitch quite thin; you have to think!! Ice gets better as you go up. Water running behind it though. Abseiled back down the route.

with Dave Slade
davidswannn 18/Jan AltLd
with JWTM
Hidden 18/Jan AltLd
andy2lis 16/Jan AltLd

Led P1, a nice 30m ice pitch to start, good thick ice in parts, took 4 screws. Marcus led P2, then they all blended in to one. Top section involved swimming through unconsolidated snow with very limited gear.

with Marcus McLernon
Marcus McLernon 16/Jan AltLd

Perfect weather and conditions, although would have been nice if it was more consolidated further up, was hard to find gear on a few pitches near the top, also not convinced if we topped out on the right spot, it was hard to judge in the dark.

ross brinson 02/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

1st pitch was bare and marginal, top 2 pitches were wild.

with James
JamesLamont 04/Feb/15 2nd dog

Hard Grade III on the day. Route fully in. Waterfall at bottom was tough. Climbed with straight shaft axes.

with Dave Slade
QuicNic 31/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Taking someone on their first winter route. Wild weather but OK conditions. 1st pitch was thin, only 2 screws in 30m and one of those tied off. Not much gear on the rest of the route either (I used a dead man 3 times!), because of this I give it a hard III but good. Top part much more consolidated now and easy. BTW 6 pitches if you pitch the snow bay/gully which is 2 full 60m pitches.

Calum3610 31/Jan/15 2nd

My first winter climb! Throughably enjoyable despite the weather.

with QuicNic
Colin Mcgregor 24/Jan/15 AltLd

Third time lucky for myself! Mostly decent snow/ice apart from the last 60 metres which was an unconsolidated struggle. Much thaw/freeze needed high up!

with Danny Doran
clipper2 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

I loved this climb, so much that I have bothered to enter it; I'm a very passive UKC member. Climbed as a three (just after the guys on the last entry :-)) must agree the last two pitches were not in good condition at all and the sensible option might have been retreat down another gully as an even earlier team found this year. But these things happen and it made for an exciting ending. Also think it's a high 3 or low 4 in that state. Finished in the dark and walked off down the scorrie. Never been to this Glen and think it's beautiful.

Tobes 01/Apr/13 AltLd

Fantastic weather, conditions ok, good ice in some places, reasonable in others. Great route!

with the other Mike
Martin85 28/Mar/13 -
Yourlead 02/Feb/13 AltLd

I lead P 2, then down Backdoor Gully to climb Backdoor Chimney. Ice not as good as 2 days ago, but still good.

with Graham Penny
Yourlead 31/Jan/13 2nd

Climbing as a 3with Graham leading 1st 2 pitch's after which unroofed up to the basin and down Backdoor Gully (dodgy snow above) Really nice ice on the slab and in the chimney. Really deep snow on approach and great bum slide on the return.

with Paul Freeman, Graham Penny
DundeeDave 27/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Nice ice formed but also heaps of snow which could do with some freeze-thaw to consolidate. 3hrs wading through snow from car park to crag!

Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
franksnb 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S

the ice is melting, dubious screw placements, thin in places. nice route. i led the snow slope but im still getting the alt lead!

with robbie
R0bbie 05/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with James Franklin
rugbydick 03/Feb/12 2nd O/S

Started on Back door Chimney as the top of the lower half didn't look in.

mshorter 08/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with erika
joeydurkin 06/Jan/11 AltLd
with Adam
simon_D 04/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

great wee route with good belays/gear and steep ice steps, pushing IV/4 me thinks in current nick!

with Alex
khawk 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with DT
jolly 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
andrew75 ??/2011 Lead
IanMcC ??/2011 AltLd
with ade
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead
abbeywall 30/Jan/10 AltLd

excellent varied route, good conditions

with K
nicjbuk 30/Dec/09 AltLd

2 pitches, abalakov abseil after avalanche from the basin. then done the waterfall (2)

Sandy Simpson 27/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Quality route

IceBun 27/Dec/09 -

Did the first two pitches to access Wildcat Wall

Richard Weller 10/Feb/09 -
with Ruth Love
Hidden 06/Feb/08 AltLd
Andy Clarke 06/Mar/05 Lead dnf

P1 only. Good steep thin ice to start, but well out of condition above. Had to leave gear and retreat.

with Rob
Hidden ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Ben lad ??/2003 -
oor wullie ??/2000 Lead
with Neil Batchelor
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Bruce Kerr 27/Dec/99 Lead
with Jenny Kerr
Yourlead 06/Feb/99 AltLd

Thin conditions and a wild day

with Graham Penny
Hidden ?/Feb/97 -
TobyA 04/Jan/97 AltLd O/S
with Ed, Olly
nickcanute ?/Feb/96 AltLd
with tim parkinson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, iksander, Hidden, Hidden, Martin85, goingupintheworld, Hidden, andymoin
Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set