Cordon Bleu** HVS 5a
[gogarth from a kayak, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a relatively amenable grade. The climbing is mostly pretty straightforward apart from the crux wall on P3. Start by traversing below the Upper Tier, then make a hair-raising descent down a vegetated rake to find a small flake next to a slab that looks like it leads to oblivion. It is possible (maybe advisable) to abseil to this point from the bottom of Bezel - see next page for overview.
1) 4a, 35m. Move out onto the slab and follow the easy traverse line left and slightly down to the arete. Below is a short chimney. Descend this and belay on the ledge at its base.
2) 4b, 38m. Climb down and left to a massive flake, and follow it below a tower and then back up the other side. Continue following the flake left past its apex. Belay here.
3) 5a, 40m. Make a tricky move up the steep wall to gain the slab above. Then follow this slab/ramp left until you pass a possible small stance below a groove, continue traversing left a few more metres to below a chimney/groove, and ascend this to belay in a narrow corridor on the left.
4) 4b, 24m. Move through the corridor and turn right. Follow the easy ground up to a short groove, which leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck.

Photo: gogarth from a kayak © rayash
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 123 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

DanielBryan - 29/Aug/15 with Andrew Peterken

A great adventure, mostly HS 4b with a short 5b crux. Good ropework essential. Done as 5 pitches so I could see Dan on the crux, using the optional belay mentioned in Rockfax P3.
AndrewP - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Daniel Bryan

Great route had loads of fun! Lead P1 and P4. Got it wrong at P4 and ended up topping out as for Citadel
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 10/May/15 with Rob Partridge, Tom Nichols

robpartridge - AltLd O/S - 10/May/15 with Tom Nichols

To retrieve a cam from the previous week. 3.5 hours and v relaxed in day light this time :)
Dizz - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/15 with Dave Frost

Minor misdirection at the end caused fun and games - finished up the top pitch of one of the E5s!
Dizz - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/15 with Rachael Ashdown

Hidden - 2015

mike mo - 2015

interesting to see the hard routes. belayed in a choss chimney by mistake - keeps you on your toes.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/14 with Alex Mccan

amccann - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/14 with Ben Kelsey

Fun adventure
maria85 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Neil

davebrox - Lead - 30/Jun/14 with Vanders

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14

Realy enjoyed it for the first pitch, but it got old really quick. just a lot of tentative walking really. the hard bit on the 3rd pitch is ace, but the rest of the pitch is dull. One star just for such a sexy location
rbharries - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Greg Cain

Enjoyed 1st 2 pitches, until it pissed it down...ben tried crux, but was put off due to everything being sopping wet...retraced steps. Great 1st outing to Gogarth...
richardw87 - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with ben

Turned back from the crux in rain and reversed the route, making it back to gearing up point just as it got dark. A good adventure but no tick.
jbb - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14

Allanfairfechan - 2014

cbeard - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

Cracking. Better than dream.
ben1987 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Adam Coles

Bit too much veg
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Tom Weston

Led P2 & P4. Soft for HVS, but a good way to see main cliff. Despite a misty morning the rock was mostly dry with only a few wet patches.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Jay

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Clay C

Nick Biven - 2013

Amazing adventure. The last sequence on the last pitch is trick once your blinded with all the liken that you nock off.
Hinchrn - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/12 with Matt Rust

cordon bleurgh? thought it was a bit average overall, some good pitches/features though. HVS 5a *
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/12 with Tom Hinch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12

5b was good but shortlived. more of that please.
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with K.Bromfield

Crux move easy after the crux of imitator! Easy, relaxed climb.
Nicole Almond - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with Dad

Linked perfectly with Imitator. Good days climbing
Dave Almond - Lead - 17/Jun/12 with Nicole Almond

Cool. Nothing to rave about, but it is a nice jaunt across the main cliff. HS with a 5b move or two. *
Duncan Campbell - AltLd - 03/May/12 with Bubbles

Hidden - 2012

Kate Started up Emulator to hit the first belay.
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11

I climbed pitches 1, 3 and 5. Joe did 2 and 4 with an interesting variation on pitch 4.
Fat Tim - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Joe Mallia

First pitch interesting to second descending steep grass with not much gear. Off route on pitch four in a loose, lichenous groove. Descended to the right stance and left a snaplink behind!
joemallia - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Tim Rolfe

The best bit about the route was being able to see the Positron headwall. A bit of a ramble with a straightforward crux. VS 5b
centurion05 - AltLd - 24/Jun/11

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Andy Woolston

Matthew Robinson - 28/May/11 with David

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

kdalzell - 2nd - 19/May/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 19/May/11 with karen dalzell

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with John

Top three pitches only, I lead first then seconded others. Nice pitch that I lead (bit of a ramble though after the start) others were a bit grassy.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Led P2, 4. First real sea cliff experience. Awesome snorting seals. Slipped on 5b move doing stupid things. Beautiful but easy in general... cool massive flakes.
NB Pixel - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with JT

really good route. crux is the approach!
ian caton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Abi

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Ian

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Chris Gooder

led p 2 and 4, with a direct finish on p5 up the corner. Very nice!
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with David B

paulh1967 - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

paulh1967 - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/10

shame theres a 5b move in the middle, probably be the best hard severe in the country otherwise
david morse - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10 with mikey R

melonmike - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Dave Morse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10

Em66 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Mat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Did a combo of 1st pitch of this 4th pitch of gogarth and last pitch of rat race, about the same grade overall but maybe E1 5a
Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Duncan

didnt really do cordon bleu did something far more interesting and highly recommended! tom led 1st pitch of cordon, and then 4th pitch of gogarth, I then lead the last 5a pitch of rat race, id say this mash-up goes at E1 5a, first 2 pitches are easy but the last one gave me some gogarth fear!!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with tom ...?

Really amazing route. Led P2, P4. Reaches parts of the cliff that you would otherwise have to be climbing E5! P2's Flake line is the best pitch, massive holds and huge exposure. The 5b move is more like 5a, but with p1's seriousness (loose blocks, vertical grass etc...) the whole route HVS 5a. Without p1 the route would be VS 5a IMO. Fully Recommend
dts - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Andy Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/09

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/09

Very unpromising start - thick green lichen & loose rock. But got much better as we went. Led 2 & 5.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Guido

Hidden - 02/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/09

Hidden - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

Bit of a one move wonder in terms of the 5b, most of it goes at about HS 4b, but still very enjoyable and wonders around some awesome parts of the main cliff
mrtom - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Mike Stephenson

Matt Vigg - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Brown - AltLd O/S - 2008

Marcus - 2008

All was fine until my partner pulled of a fridge sized flake high up on the crux pitch. For more details search Cordon Bleu in the Forum.
withey - AltLd dog - 29/Jul/07

A Gogarth Epic, sideway abseiling, rebelaying, assisted hoists the whole works
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 28/May/07 with Duncan Hassell

ewen - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with the kettle

John Kettle - AltLd - 28/Apr/07

fran04 - 2nd - 2007

mux - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

Hidden - Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/06

Big traverse. Not really that nice climbing as the rock is covered in dry green lichen. This doesn't affect friction that badly, but its just unpleasant.
My Gravity - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/06 with Angel

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Apr/06 with Owen Tomkins

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 04/Feb/06 with Dave Garry

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd - 2004 with Rory Shaw

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

I led the first couple of pitches until after the crux. Weather scorching. Looking for the holds on the crux, my fingers peeled off and I flew off backwards, the view of seagulls flying below me as I looked between my legs was amazing! Hugh Banner had caught us up at this point, so we let them lead through while I composed myself. Led the route without further incident. 3rd leader fall.
Phil West - AltLd O/S - 25/May/97 with David Atherton

did not finished due to being assaulted by a determined seagull. Pecking and fishy vomit. Made an unfortunate double with Great Western the following day.
colin milton - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/95 with eric milton

Totally brilliant climb
eroica64 - Lead - 12/Apr/95 with Paul Smethurst

Ched - Lead O/S - 1990 with Glyn a Glanfor

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/87

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/85

andy gittins - 1985

Andy Say - Lead - 12/Apr/82

Turned into an epic.Having arrived at the stance below the crux, the leader fell from the crux and disappeared from view below his belayer.Some moments later bloody hands appeared from below. Abandoned climb to assist getting these climbers to safety. Had to down climb from my position.
MikeDowsett - AltLd dnf - 1981 with Jon Sharpe

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 04/Mar/79 with Malcolm Littley

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/78

jcw - May/78 with Phil Bartlett

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Apr/76

steve L - AltLd - 06/Dec/75 with Bob Powell

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 1975 with Mike Stagg

mikej - AltLd - 15/Jul/74 with Mike Byles

pneame - 1973

mikej - Lead dnf - 10/May/72 with E

Done on Sparky's outdoor course - was only VS then!
auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1972

Hidden - AltLd - 1971

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/Apr/69 with Bob Knapton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
sam@work, poeter210, jezb1, Kevin Robert Jones, Katex, iceaxejuggler, twright180, Gezzer, mattyork2, clive-greenwood, Ian Jones, Calder, sgl0jd

Total votes cast 63
hard E10 of 21
E10 of 21
easy E10 of 21
hard HVS0 of 21
HVS6 of 21
easy HVS12 of 21
hard VS2 of 21
VS1 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
hard 5b0 of 21
5b1 of 21
easy 5b10 of 21
hard 5a9 of 21
5a0 of 21
easy 5a1 of 21
hard 4c0 of 21
4c0 of 21
easy 4c0 of 21
3 Stars10 of 21
2 Stars4 of 21
1 Star7 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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