Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff >
 
Cordon Bleu** HVS 5b

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[The ramp above the crux, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck.

Photo: The ramp above the crux © joemallia
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 100 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Enjoyed 1st 2 pitches, until it pissed it down...ben tried crux, but was put off due to everything being sopping wet...retraced steps. Great 1st outing to Gogarth...
richardw87 - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with ben

Turned back from the crux in rain and reversed the route, making it back to gearing up point just as it got dark. A good adventure but no tick.
jbb - AltLd dnf - 01/Mar/14

cbeard - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

Cracking. Better than dream.
ben1987 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Adam Coles

Bit too much veg
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Tom Weston

Led P2 & P4. Soft for HVS, but a good way to see main cliff. Despite a misty morning the rock was mostly dry with only a few wet patches.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Jay

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Clay C

Nick Biven - 2013

Amazing adventure. The last sequence on the last pitch is trick once your blinded with all the liken that you nock off.
Hinchrn - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/12 with Matt Rust

cordon bleurgh? thought it was a bit average overall, some good pitches/features though. HVS 5a *
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/12 with Tom Hinch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12

5b was good but shortlived. more of that please.
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with K.Bromfield

Crux move easy after the crux of imitator! Easy, relaxed climb.
nicole almond - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with Dad

Linked perfectly with Imitator. Good days climbing
Dave Almond - Lead - 17/Jun/12 with Nicole Almond

Hidden - AltLd - 03/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Kate Started up Emulator to hit the first belay.
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11

I climbed pitches 1, 3 and 5. Joe did 2 and 4 with an interesting variation on pitch 4.
Fat Tim - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Joe Mallia

First pitch interesting to second descending steep grass with not much gear. Off route on pitch four in a loose, lichenous groove. Descended to the right stance and left a snaplink behind!
joemallia - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Tim Rolfe

The best bit about the route was being able to see the Positron headwall. A bit of a ramble with a straightforward crux. VS 5b
centurion05 - AltLd - 24/Jun/11

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Andy Woolston

Matthew Robinson - 28/May/11 with David

David Sherratt - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

kdalzell - 2nd - 19/May/11 with Liam Fleming

Liam FLeming - Lead - 19/May/11 with karen dalzell

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with John

Top three pitches only, I lead first then seconded others. Nice pitch that I lead (bit of a ramble though after the start) others were a bit grassy.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Led P2, 4. First real sea cliff experience. Awesome snorting seals. Slipped on 5b move doing stupid things. Beautiful but easy in general... cool massive flakes.
NB Pixel - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with JT

really good route. crux is the approach!
ian caton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Abi

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Ian

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Chris Gooder

led p 2 and 4, with a direct finish on p5 up the corner. Very nice!
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with David B

paulh1967 - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

paulh1967 - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/10

shame theres a 5b move in the middle, probably be the best hard severe in the country otherwise
david morse - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10 with mikey R

melonmike - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Dave Morse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10

Em66 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Mat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Did a combo of 1st pitch of this 4th pitch of gogarth and last pitch of rat race, about the same grade overall but maybe E1 5a
Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Duncan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09

Really amazing route. Led P2, P4. Reaches parts of the cliff that you would otherwise have to be climbing E5! P2's Flake line is the best pitch, massive holds and huge exposure. The 5b move is more like 5a, but with p1's seriousness (loose blocks, vertical grass etc...) the whole route HVS 5a. Without p1 the route would be VS 5a IMO. Fully Recommend
dts - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Andy Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/09

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/09

Very unpromising start - thick green lichen & loose rock. But got much better as we went. Led 2 & 5.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Guido

Hidden - 02/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/09

Hidden - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

Bit of a one move wonder in terms of the 5b, most of it goes at about HS 4b, but still very enjoyable and wonders around some awesome parts of the main cliff
mrtom - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Mike Stephenson

Matt Vigg - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Brown - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

All was fine until my partner pulled of a fridge sized flake high up on the crux pitch. For more details search Cordon Bleu in the Forum.
withey - AltLd dog - 29/Jul/07

A Gogarth Epic, sideway abseiling, rebelaying, assisted hoists the whole works
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 28/May/07 with Duncan Hassell

ewen - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with the kettle

John Kettle - AltLd - 28/Apr/07

fran04 - 2nd - 2007

mux - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

Hidden - Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/06

Big traverse. Not really that nice climbing as the rock is covered in dry green lichen. This doesn't affect friction that badly, but its just unpleasant.
My Gravity - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/06 with Angel

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Apr/06 with Owen Tomkins

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 04/Feb/06 with Dave Garry

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

I led the first couple of pitches until after the crux. Weather scorching. Looking for the holds on the crux, my fingers peeled off and I flew off backwards, the view of seagulls flying below me as I looked between my legs was amazing! Hugh Banner had caught us up at this point, so we let them lead through while I composed myself. Led the route without further incident. 3rd leader fall.
Phil West - AltLd O/S - 25/May/97 with David Atherton

did not finished due to being assaulted by a determined seagull. Pecking and fishy vomit. Made an unfortunate double with Great Western the following day.
colin milton - Lead dnf - 07/Jun/95 with eric milton

Ched - Lead O/S - 1990 with Glyn a Glanfor

andy gittins - Lead - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Mar/85

andy gittins - 1985

Andy Say - Lead - 12/Apr/82

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 04/Mar/79 with Malcolm Littley

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Apr/76

mikej - AltLd - 15/Jul/74 with Mike Byles

pneame - 1973

mikej - Lead dnf - 10/May/72 with E

Done on Sparky's outdoor course - was only VS then!
auldscotal - AltLd O/S - 1972

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 26/Apr/69 with Bob Knapton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 54
hard E10 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard HVS0 of 18
HVS5 of 18
easy HVS11 of 18
hard VS2 of 18
VS0 of 18
easy VS0 of 18
hard 5c0 of 18
5c0 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b9 of 18
hard 5a9 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
3 Stars9 of 18
2 Stars3 of 18
1 Star6 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead15 of 100 (15.0%)
Followed5 of 100 (5.0%)
Alt Leads56 of 100 (56.0%)
Unknown24 of 100 (24.0%)

'Climbed'48 of 100 (48.0%)
clean O/S46 of 100 (46.0%)
dogged2 of 100 (2.0%)
dnf4 of 100 (4.0%)