UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

Rockfax Description
The prow on the left side. Sit-start on pinches (no kick board for feet) and head up and left - big moves on pinchy crimps and tricky heel-hooks. No slinking off left low, stay on the prow. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The "prow" on the left hand side of the cave. Sit start on pinches (no kick board for feet) and head up and left via big moves on pinchy crimps and tricky heel hooks. Care is needed on the finish.

Ned Feehally 2017.

Ticklists

Peak Limestone 8's

Feedback

User Date Notes
LevenRowan 6 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Finishing jugs are deadly, all of them fall off
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finishing jugs are deadly, all of them fall off

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High f8B
Mid f8B
Low f8B
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Pinch 2

Grade: f8A+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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