The Cad*** E6 6a
[The Cad (E5 6b) on North Stack Wall at Gogarth, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A serious route, that is popular nonetheless. It had bolt runners in the past which were removed, but a single stub still exists and most people still use a small wire hooked over it. Start beneath a vague cracked groove that leads onto the upper wall, about 14m left of the corner of Blue Peter. Ascend the cracked groove and then trend right to spike runners at 8m. Then move delicately up and right to an undercut flake (cams and occasionally a fixed thread). Difficult moves rightwards across the flake lead to a good foothold by one of the old bolt stubs. Steady your nerves and make committing moves up towards a break-line - don't lunge for it, as it slopes alarmingly. Eventually you reach a ledge where the climbing eases and the top can be reached more or less direct. © ROCKFAX


Ron Fawcett, 1978

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.

Photo: The Cad (E5 6b) on North Stack Wall at Gogarth © Alan James, ROCKFAX
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Hidden - 2015

Fantastic climbing all the way!
Alex Mason - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/14 with Tom Livingstone

Without the bolt! Pretty run-out and spicy from the bolt foot-ledges to the jugs: definitely a big sigh of relief when I reached the end of the hard climbing. Awesome experience!
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/14 with Alex Mason

Seymore Butt - 2014

Took a big one from the upper wall when a wee flake crimp snapped. Gutted. Was enjoying it to that point! Dave escaped up the ab rope and i 2nd it.
Russell Birkett - 2nd - 21/May/13 with Dave Cowan

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2013

Exhilarating. Didn't thread the old bolt head, felt E6 like this, monster runout on the actual crux (excluding a skyhook that fell off in the end).
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with Gwen Lancashire

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

owenH - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Best ever! I knew stuff about it, but its all common knowledge.
Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Mick Lovatt

first E6 onsight
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10 with blair fyffe

Hidden - 2010

barni - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/09 with long jon

Didn't use the bolt. Awesome route. Very bold and runnout. What a letdown the flase break was. I thought it was just bad for gear, there were no holds.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/09 with Sean Grady

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Joe Bawden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

morganator - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Stan Halstead

E5
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 17/May/08 with Mills

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/05 with Ed Brown

Hidden - TR - 2005

Fantastic quality route.
nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 10/Nov/04 with Norman Clacher

Ok so it's a classic, but all rather snappy.
Jon Garside - Lead O/S - May/04

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - Jul/02 with KM

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001 with andy benson

sadams - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/00 with Eric Hildrew

phil64 - 01/Apr/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1998

no bolt
switch - Lead O/S - 1997

Followed Patch Hammond, with swing over to retrieve gear on Bells peg.
ellis - 2nd - 1997

Marc Elliott - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/96 with Kath

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

D Tempest - 2nd - 16/Jul/94 with Rick

Bolt not clipped.
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/93 with David Gilkes

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/93 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/93

With the bolt.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - Jul/92 with Timmy Bonner

Easy E4 type climbing, but terrible protection after half height. Great route though, just don't fall off (OR TAKE A BOLT WITH YOU).
Steve Walker - Lead - 31/Mar/90 with paul entwistle

took a big whipper nearly hit the ground from the top got back on and did it
mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with elliot blaylock

Clipped the bolt. E5 and still bold!
frank ramsay - Lead - 1988

cam1401 - 2nd - May/87 with Ronnie Bruce

jon - Lead - 28/Jan/87 with Fred

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

mark mcgowan01 - Lead O/S - 1986 with Johnny Dawes

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/84

Mike Owen - 24/Apr/83 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/79

Hidden - TR - 1979

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, spidey, Davros the Psyched, stony, markalmack, jacob shieldhouse hadley, Ollie Hensman-Crook, anguskille, sparkass, richiebongo, Alex Mason, Franco Cookson OLD, centurion05, datoon, mr mills, fennerz, Enty, Ed Booth

Voting
Total votes cast 40
hard E70 of 14
E70 of 14
easy E70 of 14
hard E60 of 14
E65 of 14
easy E66 of 14
hard E53 of 14
E50 of 14
easy E50 of 14
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b0 of 14
hard 6a2 of 14
6a11 of 14
easy 6a1 of 14
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c0 of 14
3 Stars11 of 12
2 Stars1 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean repeat