A bit thin and thawing, but nice plastic ice. Ascended diagonally from bottom left to top right. Finished up Raeburns easy route.Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Steve Grove
Hidden - 2nd - 04/Mar/12
climbed as L to R rising traverse(direct route not complete!)so more like 4 than 5.some wet ice in middle and finish broken,delicate!
tomshanti - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/12 with Max Streeton
Reasonable, water pouring behind route, decent ice in places, rotten in others.
bigglesbutcha - 2nd O/S - 26/Feb/12 with spike sellers
climbed moving together
Ginger McGrath - 19/Feb/12 with rob
alpinebutterfly - 2nd - 19/Feb/12
TeeBee - AltLd - 17/Feb/12
Tom Vivian - 2nd - 16/Feb/12 with chris thorne
mark-abz - 2nd - 16/Feb/12 with Tom V, Chris T
Hidden - Lead - Feb/12
nikkimac - 2nd - Feb/12 with Flash
Hidden - AltLd - Feb/12
sgl - AltLd - 26/Jan/12 with Benjamin
centurion05 - 2012
Hidden - 2011
Gustav - AltLd O/S - Apr/10 with James H
bob johnson - 03/Mar/10 with Mike Pescod, Al Borrett
Hidden - Lead - 10/Feb/10
Hidden - 24/Jan/10
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/09
ruaidh - 2nd - 25/Mar/09 with Jon Jones & Stephen
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/09 with Alex mason
Very intimidated as we waited to climb, once climbing felt cool. Cracking pitch.
Alex Mason - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/09 with Martin Haworth
Dave Latimer - 2nd - 19/Mar/09
40m of steep ice in good condition. Finished off doing last pitch of Raeburn's Not So Easy route, which was a brilliant ice pitch of grade 4. Recommend doing what we did; it was great! Led by Mark during his assessment (by Pete Rowlands).
eldre070 - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/09 with Mark Stevenson
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/08
Alec did not feel well therefore had to retreat
mauchie - Lead dnf - 17/Mar/08 with Alec Holden
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/08
Hidden - Lead - 18/Feb/08
adw07 - AltLd dnf - 17/Feb/08 with Scott Becker
Fultonius - 2nd - 16/Feb/08 with James Sutton
Hidden - Lead - 16/Feb/08
Overall gradient isn't particularly steep but bulges make some parts significantly steeper than others.
Ice quality varied with some fairly good plastic ice and some difficult water ice. Latter shattered underfoot at one point resulting in small fall :-( sharper crampons needed for this!
The 1994 SMC guidebook gives the length of the climb as 50m. Belaying on ice screws it is possible to lead it on a 50m rope but I'd recommend a 60m rope.
From the top of Cascade, follow Raeburn's Easy Route up (The Upper Cascade didn't look in climbable condition). After moving together on easy snow, the final part of this held some ice - bit tired and late in the day so set up belay and pitched the final part.
Some folks in the car park reckoned that climbs on the Ben were a grade harder in these conditions - possibly the case - difficult to tell.
Rescued two folks (sans map) from near top of Raeburn's Easy Route on the way down. Folk said they'd climbed Number Three Gully Buttress and that it was in fairly good condition.
RobScotland - Lead - 16/Feb/08 with Billy Graham
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/08
Jamie B - Lead - 12/Feb/08 with Will Bayliss
Hidden - 2nd - Feb/08
Charlie wp Hill - AltLd - 2008
ed woods - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Sam, Chris
Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/07
scott gibson - 2nd - Feb/07 with steve lynch
NickJH - Lead O/S - Feb/07 with SLambert
mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2007
seanyt - AltLd - Feb/05
steveP - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with Paul Rowlands
joe king - 2nd - Mar/04 with steve petit
Scotsken - Feb/04
Hidden - 23/Mar/03
French Erick - 2nd - 16/Feb/03 with Tom Buggy
Hidden - AltLd - 2003
Gudge - AltLd O/S - Apr/02 with Mark Bannan
Hidden - Lead - Feb/02
graeme gatherer - 2000
Led by Tony in about 2 mins flat
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 2nd - 22/Apr/96 with Tony Brindle
TobyA - AltLd O/S - Feb/95 with Ed, Paolo