47m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route that takes the curving groove-line where two buttresses meet. Start below the corner.
1) 4b, 15m. Move up to the top of a small pinnacle on the left, and follow the right-trending crack. Move left and go up to a small ledge at the base of the main groove.
2) 5a, 20m. Head up the groove, passing a bulge, and carry on in the same vein until you can move right to another ledge.
3) 5a, 10m. Tackle the leaning crack directly above the stance. This is steep and sustained, and requires a battle to reach the alcove at half-height. Easier climbing up the still-steep crack leads to the top. It is advisable to keep the ropes on for the scrambling to get to the walk off. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Chris Manasseh 19/Sep AltLd

Led P2

with John Armstrong
jvarmstrong 19/Sep AltLd

Led P1 &3

with Chris
Hidden 01/Sep Lead
BTphonehome 15/Aug Lead O/S
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 15/Aug 2nd
with Bram
Pete_Frost 03/Aug AltLd rpt

Led P1 and P3 strictly according to the definitive guide this time, and enjoyed it all the more for that. The crux bulge on P2 is really hard if tackled head-on, but just goes away if face holds on the right are used. P3 is a 3m jamming crack. Belay on the blocks above then put your trainers back on for the horrible scramble out, rock shoes are useless from here upwards. We remained belayed for 1.5 rope-lengths until we reached a prominent, pointy rock by the path.

with Lucy Sutton
Lucylou19 03/Aug AltLd

Took a rest on the second pitch :(

with Pete Frost
Hidden 03/Aug 2nd
Pete_Frost 03/Aug AltLd rpt

Led P1 and P3 strictly according to the definitive guide this time, and enjoyed it all the more for that. The crux bulge on P2 is really hard if tackled head-on, but just goes away if face holds on the right are used.

with Lucy Sutton
Hidden 01/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug AltLd O/S
rushy11111918 01/Aug AltLd
with David
spragglerocks 24/Jul AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3 as one

with Alex S
mike lawrence? 23/Jul Lead
with Metal
Hidden 17/May AltLd O/S
Hannes B 04/May 2nd
danmullett ??/2015 -
pie_eater_pete 30/Oct/14 AltLd
bwestwood 25/Oct/14 AltLd
Hidden 11/Oct/14 2nd dog
nickdonohue 11/Oct/14 Lead

Good climb, but very tough for the grade!

with Jim Barritt
Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd
ollyroberts 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1+3

with James Thompson
Hidden 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
fizzychewitt 06/Jul/14 AltLd
with Alun
pearson9596 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tor Nockles
jack 9895 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
magsb 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Finished up right of the left crack.

Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
fizzychewitt 08/Jun/14 Lead
with Bryn, MagsB
stuaart 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P2 together. Chris led P3 (rubble and grass pitch).

with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
Freshprintce 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
JamesWilliams 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Pretty stiff for VS! great route tho! lead the 5a second pitch

with jamesA
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd
Pete_Frost 28/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 - I think this would scare a 4b leader. My leader took a fall from the crux on P2 - a wide bridge beneath the crack isn't the best way to climb this pitch. Top tip - there's a bomproof runner on the crux but don't over extend it or the belayer will suffer. The "leaning crack" on P3 may have become wider through erosion since the guide was first written. It is now an offwidth in decaying quartzite. I found it a dirty struggle, but probably not quite 5a. If, sorry, when one of the flakes falls off it will become harder again.

Hidden 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S
asmith37 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S
VPJB 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
David Kay 12/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
chris smith 09/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Palmer 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
admackie 24/Aug/13 2nd
sopaz 24/Aug/13 2nd
AndrewP 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S

I lead P1 and 2. Bulge on P2 is OK if you bridge and is well protected. Felix lead the short but awkward top 5a pitch - his first VS lead.

FelixPeterken 12/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Will Sheaff 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led p2 (5a)

with Will Harris
Hidden 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
greglad 08/Jun/13 -
Batt 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead p2. Up left of the bulge, steep but juggier

Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
rd20 05/May/13 AltLd rpt

RD 2

with Helen
Sam Simpson 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

Continued on from Emulator

Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 04/May/13 AltLd rpt

As continuation of Imitator.

rich_hw 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
Palindrome 04/May/13 2nd

Lovely chimney in the middle of the route; much easier than it looks. Rest at each roof.

jmills94 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S

brilliant route neil chose to go direct over the bulge at 1st pitch crux making it closer to 5b, brilliant climbing throughout

jordan taylor ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with derek kenyon
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
benkelsey 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

to finish a great day. lead in two pitches. finished up the loose veg at the top in the dark. great introduction to gogarth for shaun!

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 06/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead
Tom Gregory 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Hard for its grade, the piton on the first pitch is good. And there are bomber nut placements on the hard bulge on the second pitch. Amazing climb in a great setting. Lovely place to have an epic.

with Simon Gulli
Stephen Shaw 06/Aug/12 AltLd
with Ed
The Big Sender 06/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
tedburt 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2/3 2nd P1

with Aaron Burdett
APRS 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Followed onto this route after Imitator. P1&P3

with Halla Parkin
Hidden 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 24/Jun/12 2nd
with Ollie Burrows
Ollie B 24/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Did in a oner. Previously 2nded

with Tall Mark
angleseykayaker ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Simon P1 & P3, Rich P2

with Simon Jones
Bob Windsor 06/May/12 AltLd
with Rick Graham
Abi Chard 05/May/12 AltLd rpt
with Tracey
Hidden 30/Mar/12 AltLd
Zoomer 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Crux well protected.

Hidden 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Brannock 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Continued from Imitator, ran first and second pitches together, good fun bridging.

Tom Livingstone 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S

all 3 pitches in one

adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
alasdair19 ??/2012 -

with tom ov

Hidden 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
jason reeve 15/Nov/11 AltLd
with matt
MariaT 05/Nov/11 Lead dnf

Led up P1. Got within 2m of belay and didn't like the next moves up a wide groove and crack. Backed off as felt that if this was the easy pitch didn't want to try next pitches. Turned out I was off-route. Too late to do any more.

wi11 07/Oct/11 AltLd O/S


with Meg
Mowglee 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
mariannekhoo 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Led all three pitches after seconding Gareth on Emulator.

GarethHall 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Marianne Khoo
Jonny Nick 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

I did pitcehs 1 and 3. Bloody shattered by this point and soooo thirsty given that we took no water down from the gear stash and it got roasting hot all day. Seems like the route doesn't get much traffic and so was pretty green. Pitch 3 is a strange one, need to trek up for miles on the top slope to find a belay.

Jim Slater 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Dan Vallin, Alan Smith
Hidden 28/Aug/11 AltLd
emma Warren 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with matt stygall
Neil Pacey 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Good route, full of character for the grade, led the second pitch, felt quite strenuous getting round the bulge, but well protected.

Tanya Savage 26/Jun/11 AltLd

1st pitch lovely. 2nd very hard for grade - fell off crux (steep and failed to read it quickly enough). 3rd "pitch" a nasty, steep and brutish little corner, much cursing.

Hidden 23/Jun/11 -
al99 23/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Rusty Bale
Adi Hooper 10/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/11 AltLd
bullethead 29/May/11 AltLd dog

Led P1, flailed like an idiot on P2.

with Richard Yorke
Matthew Robinson 25/May/11 AltLd
with David
David Sherratt 23/May/11 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Vegetated, not very nice at all! Hard for the grade, but would probably be easier ( and nicer) if it had more traffic.

with Phil
Amy Kilpin 24/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with naomi
oliverharold 12/Apr/11 AltLd
with Katy Nelson
adi bryant 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Lee
Katy Nelson ?/Apr/11 AltLd
with Olly Harold
simon kimber 22/Mar/11 Lead
Hanski 22/Mar/11 2nd
MarekM ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
YnysHir ??/2011 -
with Steve Senior
alkira ??/2011 -
ollieben ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
ollieben 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with duncan cambell
Duncan Campbell 16/Oct/10 AltLd

hmmmm not amazing to be honest...I wouldnt recommend it at all.... one tricky move.

Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead rpt
lukas richardo ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

a lesson learnt.

with nikki
Lenny 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Adam
peter myers ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Simon Bennet
Ows ?/Jul/10 AltLd
LP ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
rd20 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

RD P1 and P3

with Jason
kleinej 30/May/10 AltLd dog

Rested on P2 trying to get around the bulge.

with Robert
GarethHall 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Shale
theotherpetehill 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
Neil D 01/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3.

BorisVBlade 01/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 5a.

Glyn 10/Apr/10 AltLd
davefount 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Glyn
stuart34 27/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch (last - linked 1 and 2)

with James Monypenny
Hidden ??/2010 -
Nick Rundall ??/2010 AltLd O/S
DaveWarren 25/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Mat E
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Leelogs 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Chris
Conan 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Nice climb

with Ken Taylor & Martin Powell
martrin 20/Jun/09 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Conan Harrod
david morse 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with lole
pebbles 03/May/09 AltLd O/S

p1, p3 me, p2 guido. more steep grass at the top.

with guido
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd
Hidden 03/May/09 -
gareth scott borthwick 02/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1 and 3 mat led the 2nd crux pitch

with mat
Hidden 02/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
SGD 06/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

this was great. I did P2&3

with Carol Umarova
Sally Lisle ??/2009 -
ollieben ??/2009 2nd
A Crook 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Hung Over

Aaron Lines ?/Aug/08 AltLd

led main pitch

with Dan
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Stone Muppet ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Kat Spinney
Hidden 11/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
antpayne2003 ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Richard Measures
Hidden 27/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
ksjs 26/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

i led P2

barni 18/Jul/07 AltLd
with Paul James
Hidden ?/Jul/07 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
mux ??/2007 -
jonnie3430 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Nikki
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/06 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 09/Jul/06 AltLd

Doesn't look much from below but a great climb with spectacular situations. Seagull nest near base when we did it: watch out!

with Simon Blyth
mje1398 27/May/06 2nd dog
with John M
Dan 85 29/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Excellent route

with Rob
ritchierich 22/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Last crack of top pitch proved tricky.

with Ritchie Griffiths
Ken Applegate ?/Apr/06 AltLd
with Ryan Glass
rob1 15/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Williams
scorky345 ?/Feb/06 AltLd
with Fran Blunt
Hidden ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/05 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/05 AltLd rpt
ian caton ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S

Tight new boots. Ouch!

with Abi
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
NeilGriffiths 13/Sep/03 AltLd
with James Hubbard
James B 27/Jul/03 -
with Phil
PaulTanton 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Jon Pilling ?/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Ben Hardy
akhughes ??/2003 Lead
sammoore ?/Aug/02 2nd
with Adrian Trendle
Hidden 15/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/02 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/01 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ?/Feb/00 -
with Lewis
DuckingFesperate ??/2000 AltLd
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/97 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Pete Nugent 02/Jun/96 2nd

with Fiona

colin milton 07/Jun/95 AltLd
with eric milton
bullybones ??/1995 -
Hidden 23/Jan/94 AltLd
Budge ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Ellen Williams
auld al ?/May/93 AltLd O/S

with ken

Hidden 10/Apr/93 Lead
Hidden 28/Dec/92 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/92 Lead
Andy Say 27/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
pingora 16/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Bankhead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
RichardMc 17/Jul/88 Lead
with Tony Williams
RichardMc 17/Jul/88 Lead
with Tony Williams
michael burrows 01/May/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/88 AltLd
Tony Buckley ?/May/87 -
with Richard Brockman
tapley 06/Oct/85 AltLd O/S
with Tony Raphael
Ched ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Glyn
nigehughes ?/Apr/83 Lead
with Brent Craig
AlanLittle ?/Nov/82 AltLd
with Simon Catterall
Hidden 27/Sep/80 AltLd
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Hidden ??/1979 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Mike Newton
uphillnow ??/1978 AltLd

since done several times

with George Wilson
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
mikej 06/Nov/77 AltLd
with John Bickerdyke
Rob Davies 01/Nov/77 AltLd

Cold and a bit damp

with Pete Thexton
Hidden 26/Aug/77 AltLd
Hidden 10/Apr/77 2nd
Mark Kemball 13/Sep/76 Lead
with George Mumford
RichardMc 03/Apr/76 Lead
with Not followed
RichardMc 20/Mar/76 Lead O/S
with Betty Seifert
steve L 13/Mar/76 AltLd O/S
with Morty
Bolt Phobia 02/Nov/75 AltLd
Hidden 05/Sep/75 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 13/May/72 Lead
with Charlie Vigano
mikej 10/May/72 Lead
with E
eroica64 30/May/71 Lead dnf

First pitch only. Couldn't do second pitch. Abseiled off.

with Terry Byford
Tom V ??/1971 -
mikej 18/Apr/70 AltLd
with Martin Wragg
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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