Gogarth and Anglesey > Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff >
 
Energy Crisis*** E5 6a

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[Pete Chadwick obviously enjoying pitch 2 of Energy Crisis, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers.

Photo: Pete Chadwick obviously enjoying pitch 2 of Energy Crisis © Kevin Avery
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Pumpy & squirmy! Ace.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Nick Bullock

Pleased to on sight this, climbed pitch 1 only. Wish I'd seen comments on here re #3.5 cam, a bit scary without.
Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/13 with Pete Cresswell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 05/Oct/13

Pieterjan De Roo - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13

lead before
jamesturnbull - 2nd - 24/Jul/13 with will sim

Wet, so had to bail half way up, gutted as it looked amazing. Will go back with conditions
Ramon Marin - AltLd dnf - 29/Jun/13 with Tom le fanu

I led pitch one. Alice pitch two, impressive as only her fourth day trad climbing.
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with alice thompson

Alice Thompson - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Dan Gibson

Flashed it on Luke's gear, don't know if I could have done it placing the gear. good route with a tricky crux. went into sport climbing mode at the top, throwing for things.
willoates - Lead β - 05/Apr/13 with Luke

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with aiden

Jacob Bloodworth - Lead O/S - Aug/12

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/12

Superb. Brilliant steep sequences with a committing crux in the middle. Crucial 3.5 cam. Tried last year without but reversed to the ground. Reversed twice today before attacking it.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Bubbles

Good route. Not the best style of ascent... I had a go, fell off at the crux (uk 6b imo) then lowered off. Then Ian had a go and got to the top resting on the gear. Then I got it next go with all the gear in place. Then led the top pitch which is VERY LOOSE!
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 19/Nov/11

RP'd pitch 1, very glad I didn't lead p2. See Jacob's comment for full breakdown of our unstylish ascent. Sport climbing on Gogarth - I am a bad person! Also, crux felt full value 6b, one of the holds changed shape drastically every time we touched it so maybe that has something to do with it.
i_a_coops - AltLd RP - 19/Nov/11 with Jacob

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Nov/11

Adam Lincoln - Lead β - 30/May/11 with Joe Bertalot

More like confidence crisis: up and down about 5 times at the off-width bit. Felt a bit out of my depth on this but in reality I think I just didn't fancy falling onto a cam and probably thought this would be 'easy' having seen 2 people waltz up it earlier in the day - bad approach. Reversed to ground.
ksjs - Lead dnf - 09/May/11 with Paul S

Hidden - May/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Easiest of the 3 Upper Tier E5s
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 2011 with Benno Wagner

switch - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/08

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead RP - 15/Jul/07 with Ed Brown

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/04

Hidden - 2004

Excellent 1st pitch (I led). 2nd pitch loose and horrible - Simon's ha ha
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 06/May/01 with Simon Witcher

keefe - 1989

Mike Owen - 09/Apr/85 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Mike Goldthorp, Hidden, Hidden, datoon

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard E60 of 12
E60 of 12
easy E60 of 12
hard E51 of 12
E510 of 12
easy E51 of 12
hard E40 of 12
E40 of 12
easy E40 of 12
hard 6b0 of 11
6b0 of 11
easy 6b4 of 11
hard 6a3 of 11
6a4 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
3 Stars5 of 10
2 Stars5 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead19 of 33 (57.6%)
Followed1 of 33 (3.0%)
Alt Leads6 of 33 (18.2%)
Unknown7 of 33 (21.2%)

'Climbed'12 of 33 (36.4%)
clean O/S11 of 33 (33.3%)
clean β2 of 33 (6.1%)
clean rpt1 of 33 (3.0%)
clean RP3 of 33 (9.1%)
dnf4 of 33 (12.1%)