2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route, the most popular on the Upper Tier. The climbing is sustained and feels tough for the grade, although the gear is good. Start below and slightly to the left of the compelling crack that cuts a swathe through the lichenous carpet.

1) 5b, 45m. Climb up and to the right to reach the base of the crack. Ascend the crack which is steep and relentless. Eventually, good holds lead left to a good belay on a ledge. It is possible to abseil off the pegs, or....
2) 4b, 10m. Climb the broken slab up to easier ground and belay well back as for Park Lane/Doomsville. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Well protected throughout, this classic Welsh E2 is sustained, pumpy and satisfying. Care should be taken on the approach traverse. Follow the continuous and ever-steepening crack on the main headwall of the upper tier for nearly 50m to a broken slab and insitu knot of tat. The 4b second pitch, which mostly ascends 45deg grass, is commonly foregone for an abseil back to base.

Top of pitch 1 belay is now bomber (May 2012): 3 brand new pegs with rings to ab from. Thanks to whoever re-equipped it.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Monopoly, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist.

Hidden 29/May AltLd
Hidden 28/May 2nd rpt
D.Russell 22/May 2nd O/S
with Adam, Tony s
JamesWilliams 22/May Lead rpt

Smashed it today! flew up the lower crack. its still pumpy and the move off the big flat hold is a bit tricky but felt way easier. loved it

andyinglis 22/May 2nd
Alasdair Fulton 22/May Lead O/S

Found the footwork to be continually challenging. Great route, keeps on givin'

Hidden 22/May Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 21/May 2nd
with John Nightingale
James Beaumont 08/May Lead G/U

Damn sonnnn, so good to get this done after falling off a fair few months ago, great line, pumpy as hell but you can protect every tricky move, climbed half the route with one eye open as got grit in the other, psyched

with Anna
switch 30/Apr Lead rpt
with Kevin
Hidden 24/Apr Lead O/S
tebs 24/Apr 2nd rpt
with Rich
scottcoates 17/Apr Lead O/S
with Chris
jezb1 13/Apr Lead

Got it this time, phew!

jezb1 06/Apr Lead dnf

Pumped out with only 5m to go, lowered off (with a bit of faff due to length of pitch) properly annoyed. Next time.

rustaldo 30/Mar Lead dnf

Tried hard, but bit off more than I could handle! Not done enough climbing (trad/outdoors) in recent times to even attempt this! Got stuck maybe 2/3 up, had to leave some gear and retreat back down. Was on the route close to 2hrs desperately clinging onto my chance for the onsight.. :( very well protected, didn't take enough draws though.

MSchobitz 12/Mar Lead O/S

Bit wet, but what a route! Fantastic sustained climbing all the way with good gear! What more do you want!?

drobin 12/Mar 2nd
harvie ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
saintlade ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
LJKing 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Tremendous. I wish I had led it. I will have to return to do so.

with Paul Clarkson
Mackinclimb 18/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 18/Sep/15 2nd
Richard Kendrick 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Natasha Mathews
Tenntenntuihn 13/Sep/15 Lead

Ropes felt heavy today. Climbed it fairly quickly but was a bit out of breath at times! - Lack of general fitness I guess.

with Catherine Higgs
WB 13/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Damp and harder than i remembered

with Andy M
harry_lewis 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
GraMc 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with rob
spragglerocks 31/Aug/15 2nd

Fell off trying to work out the bit where the 2 cracks come together - harder if you're short.

David Kay 31/Aug/15 Lead dog
Davesmith1981 15/Aug/15 2nd
with duncan darnell
robpartridge 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Dave Garry
Hidden 06/Aug/15 Lead rpt
pete johnson 06/Aug/15 2nd rpt
duncandarnell 03/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Tim oates
KeenClimber 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ian Dugdale
dicky79 01/Aug/15 Lead
with Pete
GPN 01/Aug/15 2nd rpt
redshapedfriday 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Never been so pumped in my life! Endless meters of the same move, urgh! Bad choice of route to 'warm up' on. The gear is totally bomber and routefinding isn't a problem, just prepare for a 'lactic acid bath' in your forearms ;) My advice would be to abseil from the top of P1 if at all possible. The pegs/tat looked great but for some reason we decided to do P2 as well. It's garbage and mostly climbing up grass slopes completely unprotected, and then you have a gnarly, long walk back to the bags. Better to abseil then get a few more routes in before heading back to the gearing up area.

with Will
Pete_Frost 25/Jul/15 Lead β

Straightforward, but not easy. Well protected, sustained 5b interspersed with plenty of opportunities to shake out. Do remember to shake out because it gets tiring on the arms toward the top! A great climb worthy of its three stars.

with Jeannie Sherwood
MichaelGallimore 25/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with jon lawson
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Ian Jones 24/Jul/15 2nd rpt

This route has changed over the years. Lost holds and added sheen.

with Dan Moore (DCD)
Hidden 24/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Tubs 18/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Jan L, John T
wi11 15/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Louisa Reynolds
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd rpt
robgixer ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Freshprintce ?/Jul/15 Lead
neal 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Lovely pitch. Abbed of from top of pitch 1, 2 excellent stainless pegs, 1 less good. With Paul Dickson as well.

with Chris S
shaunhumphreys 23/Jun/15 Lead G/U

Backed off a while back but was ok this time! awesome sunny day! huge faff when the ab ropes got stuck behind the only spike on the route and had to re climb to halfway to free it again!

benkelsey 23/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Mike_Hayes 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S


with Duncan Barrack
willsm11 18/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with James
MFB 15/Jun/15 2nd
with MB
M_Robinson 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing

Adam24B 14/Jun/15 -
Chris_barr 13/Jun/15 2nd
with Theo
pearson9596 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kat G-B
KittyKat 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Michael Pearson
Hidden 12/Jun/15 Lead dog
Suzana 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Did not bother with P2 but abseiled down.

stevoland 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
dan ely 10/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with steve london
tlmarjot 07/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Alasdair Blackshaw
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
wynaptomos 06/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 16/May/15 2nd rpt

Always a pleasure. Great to see Heather cruise a route she has wanted to do for so long!

Hidden 14/May/15 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 12/May/15 2nd β

Fantastic route! Hung to take out a piece of gear with both hands at one stage.

with Dennis van Hoek
morganator 12/May/15 2nd O/S
with International Meet Guest
JamesWilliams 07/May/15 Lead dog

Completely ran out of strength 5ft from top soooooo annoying. No easy moves but no really hard ones either but there is lots of 5b

Mike W 05/May/15 Lead O/S
wi11 20/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Sustained, never easy or hard. Good gear. Abbed of after P1

with Oli G
nathanlee 20/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Eats everything!

with Katy Whittacker
MichaelGallimore 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Still feeling pretty scared above good gear. Climbed this as the sun set, what an amazing view!

with Andy Cmc
dodfoster 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
esther ?/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
amccann ??/2015 Lead β

Had just belated Harry up it. Large flake/block towards the top of the crack moved a worrying amount when I tried to place a wire against it.

Albert Exley 16/Nov/14 Lead
with Jon
benkelsey 10/Nov/14 Lead dnf

Shaun tried it and backed off. I carried on until about 7m from the top where the wetness finally won. ab'd off to retrieve gear. back to the car just before the rain.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 10/Nov/14 Lead dnf

One to come back too on a nice summers day! got fairly intimidated, added pressure of supposed incoming rain didnt help either!

pie_eater_pete 30/Oct/14 AltLd
bwestwood 25/Oct/14 2nd
Tom Livingstone 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
JamesLloyd 15/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Lessworkmoreclimbing 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Seconded years ago, thought it was ok. Felt bit more of a fight than expected, sustained with a crux sequence where even I with my immense stamina couldn't stop to place gear! Great fight, great route.

with Kev
HAJ Francis ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Sarah Black 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 23/Aug/14 2nd
w.pettet-smith 17/Aug/14 Lead

Bloomin marvellous.as Ben said, it's one move for 40 metres, but it's a very good move.

with ben
steveb2006 14/Aug/14 Lead

Good to revisit this brilliant route - 27 years since I last did it. Val enjoys it. New peg belay and lower off but we continued to top anyway.

morganator 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Would be E1 in the Peak. Can't believe I've never done it!

with Dan Arkle
Dizz 18/Jul/14 Lead
with David
PaulTanton 06/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Pippa 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
mountain_jay 29/Jun/14 Lead

Another brilliant climb. Really felt like I was getting my flow back. Reminded me a little of Left wall.

Mattlamb90 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Mint route, left arm was getting pumped

with Luke
jonleighton 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Amazing route, slightly sad I can't now onsight it on lead!

Justin T 17/Jun/14 2nd
with Nick B
alexjz 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S


with James Marjot, George Ullrich
HIGHTOWER 11/Jun/14 Lead dog

Got about 3/4 of way up before resting, a lot. Pumped out of my little mind!

with Chris Thomas
Dan Hostford 08/Jun/14 Lead dog
Olli-C 08/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Got about 3/4 of the way up before i was fully drained. Next time.

with Chi
Rachel Slater 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing, sustained climbing, never hard but never easy.

Jake Young 01/Jun/14 2nd rpt
misterb ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with justin
AndrewJamesCherry 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed unloading my entire rack into this! Seems like new pegs and tat in place at the top?

with rob partridge, Shed_hed
Garan 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route.

with Ben Heason
shed_hed 26/May/14 2nd O/S

Nice route, wish I hadn't lost rock, paper, scissors to Cherry and got the lead. Belay looks newly replaced.

with Rob Partridge, Andrew Cherry
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
NDD 25/May/14 Lead O/S
James Oswald 24/May/14 2nd O/S

Totally cruised by Nick. Really nice route.

with Nick Duboust
Jake Young 18/May/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead
David Sherratt 05/May/14 -
switch 03/May/14 2nd
with Will, Leanne
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Dan724 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Harry Mcghie, James Williams
Misha 26/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Nice to second it this time round, very enjoyable and nothing desperate but still managed to feel sustained even on second - I guess because it is! Phil had a full on battle. Managed to fit this in on a very showery day.

with Phil
philhilo 26/Apr/14 Lead dog

Thought this was going to be straightforward after a winter of stamina training.....Bottom 7m damp, then just ran out of gas by halfway. Only thing that made me finish it was thought of having to do it again. Speed is of the essence.

with misha
Ed morris 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Henry
J.Wells 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Sadie Renwick
R2B 31/Mar/14 Lead O/S

New shoes, great views and one of the best E2s I've done.

with Cherry
Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Hidden 13/Oct/13 2nd dnf
Dan Vaj 11/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
Andy Peak 1 06/Oct/13 Lead

Felt super cool and not to hard cheap e2 thats not to try to take anything away from the climbing as its cool:-)

Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Frank Ramsey
frank ramsay 05/Oct/13 Lead
with Dave Turnbull
Misha 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Thought it would be harder than it looked and it was! Really good, sustained climbing with some ok rests but doesn't really relent until the last few metres, was getting a bit pumped towards the top. I'd say hard E2, may be that's because I did it as a warm up and had slightly cold fingers at the start. Anyway, great route. P1 only, nice ab off.

tim newton 31/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Colin Scotchford 30/Aug/13 Lead
chrisallan 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
duncandarnell 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Ciaran took a whooper on this and hit his ankle and came down. Lead it with high rope and some gear in place. Great line, brlliant climbing, though quite pumpy for E2

with ciaran tracey
Ramon Marin 11/Aug/13 Lead

Ciaran took a whooper on this and hit his ankle and came down. Lead it with high rope and some gear in place. Great line, brlliant climbing, though quite pumpy for E2

climbingpixie 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant line and climbing!

with Claire
Leelogs 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead
mcb ?/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Fine lead by Derek. Very sustained and very superb climbing. You've got to keep something in reserve all the way up cos it just keeps coming.

Tadams 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

fantastic route, sustained but lots of good positions to rest.

with Mark Challoner
dan gibson 25/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S

a proper pitch!! sustained but reasonable rests found.. good pro... couple of harder bits.. but always good holds a move away.

with dan
rob.grafton 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Charlie Booth
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Bennykr 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Mega, no hard bit just lots of cool climbing.

with Duncan
Alice Thompson 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
KRB 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

An excellent climb. Long, steep and strenuous though never hard.

with Chris Bridges
Dan Hostford 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
John Nuttall 08/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy H
mark4344 05/Jun/13 2nd
with stu and Dereck
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
Andrew Wilson 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Easy. Long.

Duncan Campbell 15/May/13 Lead β

Tried this over 3 years ago when I hadn't ever climbed E2, lowered off of that manky stuck wire then. None of that today, a great pitch and greeted by rain at the top. Solid E2. Also 2nd Aardvark

with Rich Gentry
mark20 05/May/13 Lead O/S
dprctr 05/May/13 2nd rpt

Felt harder this year!

with Patrick
paddygoodwinlondon 05/May/13 Lead
with David Proctor
greglad 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Rachel S 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ros M
givemetea 04/May/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd rpt
thecurlyone 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

What an amazing route. Just keeps coming. The second pitch, which is described as a scramble, is actually a protectionless steep-heather escapade. Probably better off rapping back down.

tim newton 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 08/Apr/13 2nd
willoates 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S

good climbing and nice new pegs at the top of pitch 1

with Luke
captain ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
JRae 06/Oct/12 Lead

So much fun. Cheeky last route racing the sunset. Felt pretty easy as it flows so well. As good as left wall imo.

with Liam P
martrin 05/Sep/12 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
James Oswald 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A momentous lead. Done as the first route of the day. Had an amazing experience on it, placed just about the right amount of gear and had a fair few big but safe runouts. Like 2 HVSs stacked on top of eachother? Amazing experience

Ed Babs 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

As good as the hype suggests.

Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 01/Sep/12 Lead β

Done this before but it's still good

with Anita Grey
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
drysori 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Dunc
leon 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

It was a choice of going home or one last cheecky route. Ste had had enough & was content to take in the view whilst I did the route then abbed and stripped. Had to down climb one of harder sequences when I realized I'd messed the ropes up, I wondered if that silly mistake was going to cost me higher up. Had some big run outs, even ste was scared!!

with Steven Davidson
mshorter 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with dunc
Cardi 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Andy T
Si dH 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Great route. Not as steep as it looks and covered in jugs - felt steady.

with Tom Lambert
dswansonlow 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Rafe
UncleMephisto 12/Jul/12 Lead dnf
with Dougie Swanson Low
Rob Pitt 07/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Helen Pitt
Sam Simpson 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Tom Doldon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

The never ending crack

with sam simpson 48
highclimber 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Excellent route worthy of the grade. I liken it to a series of boulder problems with good rests between. Probably a good test to see if you're ready for Branflake.

with sam
Sam Simpson 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/May/12 2nd
with Ken Palmer
tom.e 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Claire
Alex Mason 28/Apr/12 Lead rpt

Led sport style. Always awesome.

with Bubbles
givemetea 21/Apr/12 2nd rpt
3 Names 21/Apr/12 2nd
dprctr 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Going smoothly then I started to get a little more pumped further up. Exciting all the way.

Hidden 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Lenny 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Les
Chad123 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Great pitch, gets harder as you go up with the pumpy crux at the top, plenty of super solid gear though. Bit chilly this morning but a good warm up for Resolution direct....

with Sam
robin_hackney 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Steady climbing in an awesome setting. Rationing gear was tougher than the actual climbing!

Ollie B 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S


with N.Sommers
sam820 12/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Murdoch
Owain Llewelyn 11/Apr/12 2nd
with Doddy
Martin Haworth 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Excellent route, never too hard, probably just creeps into E2 because it is sustained and long. Was a bit damp in places but I expect that is normal.

Brannock 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Tad pumpy with a pack on.

mux 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt

its still great climbing.

with Dom
Hidden 25/Mar/12 2nd
Luke Brooks 20/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with John Orr
Hidden 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Adam Potter ??/2012 AltLd O/S

Can't remember the date. Came across the route when we were a bit lost looking for 'dream of white horses'. I led the main pitch. It was fantastic.

with Sari
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
chriscarroll 21/Oct/11 Lead dog

Probably the best route I have done so far, even though I dogged it. Got too pumped towards the top, was like one 5a move from the chains but just could not continue! Was getting pumped trying to rest..really nice climbing no hard moves.

with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 30/Sep/11 2nd
with Doddy
owain86 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with joel
mariannekhoo 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Wonderful climbing. Sustained and technical.

Hidden 24/Sep/11 -
GarethHall 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Marianne Khoo
Joughton 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

First E2, really proud, amazing line on what seems to be the most solid rock at Gogarth! Finished as the sun set over the sea, and did Left Wall the next day to cap off a great trip.

Martin Davies 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Great lead by Matt! Abseiled off anchor - had been recently replaced.

with Matt Harris
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd
mick1jones 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead
mikeshewring 04/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Blurgy319 03/Aug/11 2nd dog

Was pretty pumped by the top of p1, Lee did a good lead and was suitably chuffed, ab'd off the stance instead of doing the chossy p2

with Lee Wales
robinsi197 31/Jul/11 2nd

Led this in the 80s

with Nick
Jack00 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First pitch then ab off.

with Anna
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 29/Jul/11 2nd O/S

sustained although with good rests throughout. no particulaly hard moves.

givemetea 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt
feilx 07/Jul/11 2nd rpt
AlexD 07/Jul/11 2nd

Led up to about halfway, but bailed and downclimbed as I was running out of gear and nerve! Loooong!

dan gibson 07/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with roslyn mckendry
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 26/Jun/11 Lead β

lead on ally's gear

Marti999 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 18/Jun/11 2nd
with Neil
guy757 17/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tebs 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Jon
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
robertmichaeladams 31/May/11 Lead

end of a long day, very tired

with Susan
Dave Foster 30/May/11 Lead O/S


with Si 2
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead O/S
Dangerous Dave 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Wild Beast
Russell Birkett 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Murdoch J
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
laurelfan 14/May/11 Lead dog

had to stop in the middle to wait for rain to pass :)

with Tania
Jonas Paulsson 11/May/11 2nd
with Jacques Lepesant
belay bunny turned bad 10/May/11 2nd
Cragrat Rich 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Wow... This route is whoppingly good!! Never taxed me too much, but kept up the anxiety, concentration and excitement all at the same time

Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
tonanf ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with biaba and neil
Hidden ?/May/11 -
mr mills 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Elfyn (chang)
gwh 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Shauna 24/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Foot popped. Disappointing.

with Jules
david morse 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt
dan ely 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with jon (ukc reading)
Anna_wells 26/Mar/11 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
markalmack 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
Ram MkiV 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Al, Mike, George
BennoC 21/Feb/11 2nd
with Dan Peers
Dave Turnbull, BMC 12/Feb/11 2nd
with Neil Foster
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Marcus ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Ben C ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Lone Rider ??/2011 -
hilty 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

First trip to gogarth, very impressed, one of nest days of climbing ever!!! :-)

Tom Livingstone 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Pippa 10/Oct/10 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
schof 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
pabbage 17/Sep/10 2nd
Jim Slater 22/Aug/10 2nd dog

Ran out of steam near the top. Full on climbing.

Hidden 21/Aug/10 2nd
gforce 19/Aug/10 Lead

Pretty cruisy I thought. Real good too.

with Kath
SiW 14/Aug/10 Lead
with And
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 05/Jul/10 2nd rpt

harder than i remember, totally classic

with jo
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead rpt
London Luke ?/Jul/10 Lead
richardr 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S


Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Tony Holdsworth 12/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Hot and sweaty in the afternoon sun but went OK.

with Nick Mitchell
metal arms 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
3 Names 30/May/10 Lead O/S
givemetea 30/May/10 2nd O/S

Great line. Used ab station above first pitch to ab off and didn't bother with second easy pitch

with Vince
Hidden 24/May/10 2nd
Ched 24/May/10 Lead
Ched 24/May/10 Lead
Dr Toph 12/May/10 2nd O/S

Ed led it. Sustained and just keeps on giving! Brilliant.

with Ed
Dave Warburton 02/May/10 Lead O/S


with Ewan
Rowansb 02/May/10 Lead O/S


with sean
markfairbank 02/May/10 2nd
with Ian Moore
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
steev 23/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Gaz
gaz.marshall 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Steev
John Pickles 22/Apr/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
spidey 17/Apr/10 Lead
with Jimmy
soph 01/Jan/10 -
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Mike Goldthorp 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S


Paulww 07/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Superb climbing, stunning sunset, Gogarth to ourselves... does climbing get better than this?

Chris wilson 07/Oct/09 2nd

A true classic

with Paul
Alex Mason 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Amazing line, unlikely at E2. continuously interesting.

with matt burdekin
Hidden 30/Sep/09 2nd
Abi Chard 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd β
Pete Graham 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rick Graham
Glyn 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

A big tick!

with Clare
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
david morse 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with mikey R
Hidden 06/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
melonmike 06/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead β
Dave Searle 26/Jul/09 2nd rpt

good lead by ben.

with ben
Dave Rumney 26/Jul/09 Lead

i'd forgotten what a great route this is

with Tanya Milner
Oliver Sherman 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Dave Searle 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S

awesome route! very sustained. very satisfying

with tony
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Kirill 28/Jun/09 2nd

fantastic climb! will come back one day to lead it.

cem 28/Jun/09 Lead rpt
lukehunt 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
nic42 05/Jun/09 2nd dog
with Luke
datoon 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with K
khawk 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
maybe_si 26/Apr/09 2nd
with jez
victim of mathematics 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Totally awesome. I actually led the guidebook P2, but it was 99% heather and probably not 4b as claimed.

with Brian
Hidden 17/Apr/09 2nd O/S
dan gibson 17/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
simonp ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nicki Hearne
Jez ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/09 2nd O/S
cavemancolumbus ?/Mar/09 2nd dog

I fell off. Several times. I know know that i can't climb E2. Yet.

with dan
hervenuttall ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Pure amasing

with Andy
DavidEvans ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S

The start of a great and memorbale day out. True Gogarth adventure ( :

with John Vincent
reg_measures ??/2009 Lead O/S
with neil thomas
centurion05 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with woody
Bristoldave 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Had to instruct my unwell second that he wasn't allowed to pass out as I was on the crux!

with adam
barni 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Northern
thompson1000 26/Sep/08 2nd
GPN 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/08 Lead
Dale ?/Sep/08 Lead dog

Had a rest near the top, so pumpy after the 35meter crux. Think I would of got the onsight if I had'nt warmed up on parklane doomsville. O well

with johny
feilx 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 19/Jul/08 Lead


with Dad/Phil
Hidden 02/Jul/08 Lead O/S
cornishben 02/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Mike Raine
Hidden 02/Jul/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/08 -
galpinos 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S


with Nick V
bfreeman 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Marjot
Stone Muppet 18/May/08 Lead O/S

hell yeah!

with ap
Ed Booth 10/May/08 Lead O/S

superb! Pumpy!

C coldwell-storry ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
tlmarjot ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Ben Freeman
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Will1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
timbanton ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
lukea 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S

spectacular route

with Rich
Castleclimber 25/Aug/07 2nd

I lost the coin toss for this lead

Luke Brooks 16/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S

One of my finer climbing experiences. Cruised until halfway but suddenly got desperately pumped, thereafter an exercise in holding it together with heavy breathing. Was raining into the sea throughout, but timed it well (sprint finish) to reach stance just as heavens opened and came over all euphoric. Reversing approach traverse in the wet felt E2 4a.

with Simon Denison
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead β
John Southworth 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Snell
middlevern ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Mike Blood
Apharri ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
gregoritos ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
IOAN D 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with Alun
Hidden 10/May/07 Lead O/S
spacey 21/Apr/07 2nd
Paul Evans 21/Apr/07 Lead
with spacey
ritchierich 12/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Sustained climb but very good value.

DavidR 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
mux ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 07/Aug/06 Lead rpt

Seconded this route in 2001.

with Tony Ball
shoulders 02/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Ken Applegate ?/Aug/06 2nd
with Ryan Glass
LC ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd
haydng ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 13/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Brown 04/Sep/05 2nd
with Henry
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd
BruceW ?/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Al D.
simon kimber ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Chris Stirling
lost.arrow 10/Jul/05 -
with Isabelle Membrez
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/05 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/05 Lead O/S

One of the best routes i've ever climbed - positive holds and good gear all the way. Quite an intimidating little number to start.

Hidden 28/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Gus 28/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Phill Mitch ??/2005 Lead O/S

A must do route!

with john d
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
marcoleptic ??/2005 Lead O/S

awesome, very sustained. Pete was DNF.

with Pete
datoon 26/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with RT
Luke Gilbert ?/Aug/04 2nd
with Mike Soldner
nickdonohue ?/Jun/04 Lead
with Jim Barradale
Hidden 22/May/04 2nd rpt
dicky79 ??/2004 2nd dog
with Mike Bottomley & Andy Houseman
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 Lead O/S

first e2

Hidden ??/2004 -
GuyM ??/2004 Lead
with Duncan Sherratt
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Urgles ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Mick B
Hidden 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jul/03 2nd rpt

Great lead by Viv

with Viv
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Jun/03 Lead
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd
with Dave A
unfit 01/Sep/02 AltLd
with ruth
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Peters
Hidden 20/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
cem 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
lost.arrow 08/Jul/01 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/01 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths 04/Apr/01 AltLd
with James Hubbard
Julian Wedd ??/2001 Lead
with A. Howarth
Mark Riley ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
A Crook 28/May/00 2nd
with Dale Holding
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
VPJB ??/2000 -
ded ??/2000 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog ??/2000 2nd

Hard to enjoy due to having to take Chris's entire rack out of the crack. Well-protected though...

with Chris J
nige ?/Sep/99 Lead
with mark hounslea
babymoac 26/Jun/99 2nd dog

dogged - just too strenuous at the time ....

Chris Reid 01/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
Hidden ?/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 -
JulesV ??/1999 Lead O/S
Billg 22/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Hidden 12/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Scott McRae 19/Jul/97 2nd O/S

Nicely sustained with rests. Tricky top move.

with Martin Hore
ellis ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
mikedelderfield 23/May/97 AltLd O/S
ste_d 23/May/97 2nd O/S
with mik
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 Lead rpt
phardman ??/1997 -
jameshiggins ??/1997 -
Hidden 07/Sep/96 2nd β
frost ?/Jul/96 Lead
with S Raw
goi.ashmore 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
sadams 09/Jun/96 Lead
with John Boyle
Hidden ?/Jun/96 2nd
michael burrows 05/May/96 Lead rpt
with steve ward
alkira ??/1996 -
WB ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Guy
robtrooper ??/1996 -
andyblain ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
pingora 06/May/95 2nd O/S
Colin Edwards 07/Apr/95 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/95 2nd
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
NickJH ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with PMcAllister
jamiev 08/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Greg Cunningham
michael burrows 08/May/94 Lead rpt
with lola gunn
jfletcher 16/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Nick Wharton
Cowflinger 19/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with Tim Emmett
Steve Crowe 03/Sep/93 2nd O/S
with KM
Hidden ?/Aug/93 -
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jul/93 AltLd
mattnuttall 22/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 19/Jun/93 2nd
Bruce Kerr 14/May/93 Lead
with Mike Boyle
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 16/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/92 Lead
Grezza 15/May/92 Lead O/S

E2 benchmark. Top quality stuff

with Mick RIP
Mike Owen 13/May/92 2nd rpt
with Andras
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 2nd
with Paul Kallmes
Campbell42 08/Sep/91 2nd O/S

This was my second ascent. First time with Eric Marsden when I lead.

Hidden 24/Aug/91 Lead
michael burrows 14/Jul/91 Lead rpt
with shaun
Roget 19/May/91 Lead O/S
with jim
richiebongo ??/1991 Lead O/S

As i remember it took me over an hour to do it.

with malcolm boater
Andy Edgar ??/1991 Lead O/S

good but not as great as I hoped for

with Hugh Woodland
Hidden 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/90 Lead
Mike Owen 02/Jun/90 2nd rpt
with Graham George
uphillnow ?/May/90 Lead rpt
with john Aylewood
Dave Musgrove 09/Apr/90 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Apr/90 Lead
with Dad
Sean Kelly ?/Apr/90 -

Save some strength for the top! It's a long pitch.

with Rick Kruze
Nick Biven 31/Mar/90 Lead O/S
rilem ??/1990 2nd
with Ian W
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1990 2nd
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1990 -
PaulHermes ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 Lead
bullybones ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Andy Say 12/Sep/89 Lead
shark 13/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Neil R 27/May/89 Lead
with Sharon
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
steveb2006 17/Sep/88 Lead
with Chris Grafton
Bob 27/Aug/88 -
with al phizacklea
phardman 19/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with John Gratton
steve taylor ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S

First E2

with Nicky Beresford
Hidden 04/Apr/88 Lead β
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
Roy Stuart ??/1988 Lead O/S
frank ramsay 03/Sep/87 Lead
with Pete Cummings
steveb2006 10/May/87 Lead
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
with Stephen Yates
Hidden ??/1987 2nd
Stoney Boy ??/1987 2nd O/S
with Brian Collins
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
MikeYouCanClimb 14/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Dave Dowson
wynaptomos ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 15/Jun/85 2nd rpt
with Simon King
jcw ?/Jun/85 -
with Mike Dawes
Hidden 18/May/85 2nd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 25/Aug/84 Lead
with Mike Butler
Martin Bennett 18/Aug/84 -
with Harry Lambert, Dave Prior
nigehughes ?/Aug/84 2nd
with Bernie Woodward
Hidden ??/1984 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Andy Towne
mark-abz 19/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Walter P
Martin Bennett 14/Aug/82 -
with JD
charlesmfrench 07/Nov/81 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
tapley 17/Oct/81 2nd
with John Sumner
Nic Robinson 31/May/80 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 06/Apr/80 2nd
with John Jefferies
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/79 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/79 Lead
johno072 ?/Jul/79 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1979 Lead O/S

Still E1.

with Mike Wright
Mike Owen 08/Oct/78 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Ian Jones ??/1978 AltLd O/S

Definitely only E1.

with Chris Newton
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Hidden 17/Sep/77 Lead
steve L 29/Jan/77 Lead O/S
with sharpie
Hidden ??/1976 AltLd
petemeads ?/Jul/75 Lead O/S

Steep, big (some rattly) holds and strenuous - one of the better routes on a less-than-favourite crag

with Mick Brady
Hidden ??/1973 -
mikej 27/Sep/69 Lead dog

We had to 'move together' for 15 feet so that I could get to the stance. Used 5 slings for aid instead of just the single 1 described. The description was unclear as to the location of the aid.

with Bill Church
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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 121
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 120
Votes cast 108
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set