UKC

150m, 5 pitches. This climb starts in the striking arching dihedral right of Jet Stream and left of drifting.
1. Climb up blocky rock onto a slab that lies just right of a corner. At the top of the slab step left to the belay.
2. Step right off the belay and make awkward moves to gain a hanging corner. Climb this to its top then step left to the base of a clean cut right trending corner. Climb up this to a bolt anchor. 35m, 5.10c.
3. Climb the steep bolted wall above the anchor to a roof. Make hard moves left under the roof then pull up and step around the arete to a bolt anchor. 15m, 5.12b (5.11b, A0)
4. Climb left up a ramp to gain a loose, shallow corner. Climb this then traverse left to another bolt anchor.
5. This is a spectacular pitch. From the anchor make very thin moves up a clean corner before it eases. At the top of the corner, step right (bolt) around into another clean corner. Technical bridging leads up the corner until it is possible to step up and left out of the corner system into another thin flake and corner. Climb this tenuously to the top. Full value. 40m, 5.11a

Descend the route with 4 double rope abseils.

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Voting
High 5.12c
Mid 5.12c
Low 5.12c
High 5.12b
Mid 5.12b
Low 5.12b
High 5.12a
Mid 5.12a
Low 5.12a
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Route of Interest
Dying Breed

Grade: 5.12b ***
(First Creek Canyon & Mount Wilson)

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