Rockfax Description
The newest route on the wall and one that comes under the category of 'terrain d'adventure' meaning a small rack is needed to supplement the partially-bolted pitches. Some large cams are useful. The belays are bolted.
1) 6a+. Climb a crack then easier ground to belay.
2) 5c. Go straight up then cross right across a grassy ledge to reach the next pitch.
3) 5c. Traverse up and left to another ledge.
4) 6a. Pull through a small roof and follow easier ground above.
5) 6a. Traverse up and left, passing an overlap, and then up and right to a ledge.
6) 6a+. Follow a series of cracks above.
7) 6a. Climb the wall above the belay, passing a large ledge, then go up and left.
8) 5c. A small steep wall leading to a slab. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Piola's new trad route on the main cliff. 12 pitches. 6a+ max, 6a obligatory. Occasional bolts on compact sections, but a trad rack is essential. A full set of C3s and normal cams to #3 is recommended. Wires nice to have, but not necessary. A detailed topo can be found in Piola's new (2016) Aiguilles Rouges 2 guide to the area.
Health warning: the first bolt on P11 (6a+) is a good 10m from the belay. Any gear you find before it could be best described as very marginal. There are several obligatory 6a moves to get to this bolt. Be strongly advised not to lead this pitch unless you consistently onsight at least 6a!
Michel Piola 2016.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Suncream | 29 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Despite what the description says, there is a bomber small silver cam placement 2m below the bolt on p11 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Despite what the description says, there is a bomber small silver cam placement 2m below the bolt on p11 |
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| mic.snow | 5 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: (Starting after the lower slabs) Blue #3 quite handy here and there. Some nice options for wires, but there's usually also a good cam placement nearby as well. I definitely placed a few micro cams, more for fun to try them out, rather than necessity. You don't really need them for the upper part of the route. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: (Starting after the lower slabs) Blue #3 quite handy here and there. Some nice options for wires, but there's usually also a good cam placement nearby as well. I definitely placed a few micro cams, more for fun to try them out, rather than necessity. You don't really need them for the upper part of the route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Barberine Gietroz
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Les Chants du Midi
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Aiguilles Dorées)