Strike** E4 6a
[The last hour of light on the upper tier., 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A good route, which is relatively straightforward for the grade - although it is steep, and a little bit of a pump-fest. Start below the lower end of twin diagonal cracks that streak across the cliff and round an arete.
1) 6a, 38m. Make some hard moves to gain the twin cracks, and follow them leftwards. A brief respite halfway leads to more sustained climbing. The crux comes at the end of the twin cracks just before they move up into the slabby groove. Many parties abseil off from here. Alternatively, head up the groove to belay on the top of the large flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
E3/E4 overhanging crackline, most parties ab off after the first pitch.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: The last hour of light on the upper tier. © Rich Kirby
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This climb is in 153 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15 with Nick Conway

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/15

Jen Crook - Lead dnf - 12/May/15 with Richard Cussen

MichaelGallimore - 2nd β - 19/Apr/15 with Andy Cmc

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/14 with Sam Taylor

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/14 with Steve

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Tom Livingstone

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Dan Gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/14

tim newton - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/14 with rachel slater

Hard E3 5c? Nice route though.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Tim Newton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/14

NDD - 2nd - 25/May/14 with james

Probably just hard e3 given that there's a rest a few moves before the crux. It was worth downclimbing before the first hard move after placing gear. There's a cool near hands off bridging rest after the first crux and there's good gear placed off the good undercuts before the final hard move. Totally brilliant route.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 24/May/14 with Nick Duboust

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14 with Mike

Hidden - May/14

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/14

samwillo - AltLd - 17/Apr/14 with Jay Carr

Jay.Carr - 2nd - 17/Apr/14 with samwillo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Al Evans - 2014 with Jim Moran

oliverpcain - Lead O/S - 2014

Seymore Butt - 2014

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 06/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Oct/13

Amazing line, nice warm up for the day. Soft E3, bomber gear
Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with ciaran tracey

jamesturnbull - 2nd - 24/Jul/13 with will sim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/13

I led this some years ago.
PaulTanton - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/13 with Stuart Lancaster

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13 with Halla

Joughton - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13

No way E4
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 29/May/13 with Calum Musket

Hidden - AltLd dog - 28/May/13

Brilliant pumpy crack climbing.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Fingers

On doing this again I just can't see it as E4, it isn't, you're on jugs virtually every move, there's gear everywhere. Also, is there a 6a move on it, is it not just 6a as there's lots of 5c? Regardless, it is superb, I wish there was more trad in this vein...
ksjs - Lead rpt - 19/May/13 with Rich

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Russ Birkett

Dave led first
Russell Birkett - Lead β - 19/May/13 with Dave Cowan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

mark20 - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

ejected - 2013

Luke Brooks - 2013

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Oct/12

Very good but nowhere near E4 or 6a
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Sep/12

So happy with this!
Sardien - 2nd β - 28/Aug/12 with Andy Scott

Dogged 6a crux pitch, led P2 4c.
Rachel Somerville - AltLd - 14/Aug/12 with Nik

Nik Jennings - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Rachel

datoon - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with K

khawk - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with DT

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Lee Roberts

Howard Lawledge - Lead - 07/Jul/12

On andy's gear.
mikeshewring - Lead β - 06/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/12

gforce - Lead - 14/May/12 with Adrian

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Dan

dan ely - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with owian

Great route. Pumpy by the end though. Solid lead by Si as ever, with a spicey run out/sprint at the finish. Didn't find a 6a move, plenty of 5c and general burl.
Dave Foster - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/11

KittySupreme - 2nd dog - Oct/11

alaan - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Will

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/11

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11

E3, did in a single pitch.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Frank Ramsey

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 18/Jun/11 with Neil

piss, E3 in the Lakes.
C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Iron Mike, rob lay

did on cals gear instead of seconding it. Sharpe!
Rob1988 - Lead β - 11/Jun/11 with Cal

Pumpy but steady. Few loose holds and some are very sharp.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 11/May/11 with Luke

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Mick Lovatt

Hidden - May/11

Had some beta about pulling into the groove, couldnt manage this so continued leftwards up the rib and crack. Mega pumped, should have done a warm up
david morse - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with stevebarratt

On daves gear. Then again on tr to clean it.
stevebarratt - Lead - 19/Apr/11 with Dave Morse

Hidden - Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Almost blew it after messing around selecting wrong cam sizes, too much sport climbing on the ormes away from the trad. Pulled into top groove as pumped as you can get without falling off.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - Sep/10

zero six - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/10

soph - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Toby Dunn

Hidden - 2nd β - 07/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Joe Bawden

3 Names - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Roslyn Mckendry

givemetea - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with Vince

JM - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Steve Sylvester

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/10

phil64 - Lead - May/10

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Steep, awkward holds. wicked moves, pumpy if you miss the undercut at the top.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/09 with Mikey G

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09 with Kev

the juicy dangler - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/09 with rob greenwood

Nick Bullock seconded to remove Dave Rudkins gear on Black Leg. Quite goey.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Fennerz

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/09 with michael porter

harvie - Lead - 16/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/09

feilx - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with Phil Davis

Hidden - AltLd RP - 21/Jul/08

mux - Lead - 20/Jul/08 with Rob

short and sweet !
mr mills - Lead O/S - May/08 with ioan d

how good is this! pumpy, sustained, great gear with a tricky move to negotiate the corner at the end of the traverse. brilliant climbing. hard E3, soft E4
ksjs - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08 with sarah

tigertiger - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Marcus - 2008

E3 or E4? Harder than Stroll On and Godzilla, easier than Vulcan.F6c
ian caton - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Abi

Hidden - 2nd β - 07/Jul/07

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 12/May/07 with Alun

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/07

JulesV - 2nd O/S - 2007 with toby dunn

a_radiohead_fan - Lead O/S - Oct/06

shoulders - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/06 with andy sharp

Brown - Lead dog - 04/Sep/05 with Henry

P*ss wet through.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 02/May/05 with Nic Sellers

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/04 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - Lead dog - 2004

Jah - Lead - Nov/02

Hidden - Lead dog - 2001

sadams - Lead O/S - 01/May/00 with Tom Briggs

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Rich Kirby - Lead dog - 05/Aug/99 with Hugh

GeoffG - Lead - 05/Jun/99 with greg cottrell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/98

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/96 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 06/Jul/94 with Robert Durran

LUMC meet
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/90

Billg - 2nd - 29/Apr/90 with Jon Barton

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 1989 with Andy Jones

Hidden - AltLd - 1989

mark mcgowan01 - 1987 with Stephen Yates

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

jasper11 - 1986

andy gittins - 1985

keefe - 22/Apr/84

Mike Owen - 17/Apr/83 with Andy Pollitt

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/82

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1982 with Neil Molnar

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/81

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/80

steve L - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/76 with sharpie

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andrew Wilson, samrad, Ropeboy, Dr Fran (Vagabond MC), datoon

Total votes cast 106
hard E50 of 31
E50 of 31
easy E50 of 31
hard E40 of 31
E46 of 31
easy E411 of 31
hard E311 of 31
E33 of 31
easy E30 of 31
hard 6b0 of 42
6b0 of 42
easy 6b0 of 42
hard 6a0 of 42
6a25 of 42
easy 6a10 of 42
hard 5c7 of 42
5c0 of 42
easy 5c0 of 42
3 Stars2 of 33
2 Stars28 of 33
1 Star3 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP