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Awesome! I took the aid pitch, absolutely brilliant! Watch for loose rock as you approach the tat. Tat is total mess so just clipped the bit that seemed to be clipped to most other things!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd - 21/May/13 with Fingers
The free version: an awesome adventure @ e5 6b. Somehow scraped through the super-awkward blind crux roof by the skin of my teeth with knee bars, arms bars, head jams, hand jams, drop knees, bridging, toe hooks, leg squeezes and anything else that came to mind.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 26/May/12
Firstly is should be noted that the E2 grade is for the non aid pitches.
A superb adventure in 3 Dimensions. 4 star route in my opinion.
It can be reached at High tide also from normal abseil but does add an extra pitch of 5b.
I think everyone does this different so our method was:
Leader: back and foot up to the tat. Clip tat. (which is a complete mess circa a 1950 - 2000 daisy chain of slings and krabs in various states of decay, no one peice of gear links one side to the other. needs stripping and rebuilding) Lower down. Pendulum to fix gear. Clip. Aid round lip. Climb to belay.
2nd climb up to tat. Tension Abseil down. Pull through. Aid round lip. Climb to belay.
I recommend a fifi hook makes things much easier and gives you a bigger reach.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Neil Griffiths
Great, intense outing for the whole party. Rope jam added to the fun. Large seal kept tabs on our progress. A grand day out.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Adam
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11
Fantastic adventure! Crucial tat good in 2011.Lead p2 and 4
chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Nik Goile
first pitch is good, 5b/5c. the aid pitch is straightforward to the tat, which was good! we lowered the leader to the lip then aided to the stance, seconding the pitch was interesting, threaded the tat and abbed to the lip, then unclipped the gri gri and pulled through.
top route, worth it.
centurion05 - AltLd - 18/May/11 with lee wales
Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Helena Robinson
Marcus - 2008
jim robertson - 2006
Hidden - 2006
Hidden - 2001
frost - May/00 with J Hubbard
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Oct/98
shark - AltLd - 09/Sep/85 with Seb Grieve
andy gittins - 1985
With Phil Sampson. Turning up with identical 9mm red ropes not a good start for a semi-aid route. Rope snagged on lip when 2nd (Phil) pulled it through to commence jumarring downwards resulting in huge fall when it released. Fall resulted in both ropes jammed into lip crack. Led 2nd pitch at darkness with 15mm of rope,Phil fell again as we climbed together although had just made the grass. Coastguard call out as 2 French friends had become concerned. Greeted their scrambler bikes in car park at 1.00 a.m. Coast guard climber later met by friend at party having retrieved 2 ropes, friend and wires....thanks lads, glad you wern't needed proper, like having to ab into a boat!
steveboote - Lead - 1984