The Quartz Icicle*** E2 5b
[Nicky enjoying the last few moves., 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Another great route, that takes the quartz band that looks like a lightning bolt frozen in geology. Start by abseiling to the belay on the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 40m. Move left to join the start of the quartz streak. Follow this, passing a few tricky moves, to where the streak turns into a crack, and follow this to broken easier ground and a small groove 6m right of the Dream... belay. You can move left to belay as for Dream... if you plan to finish up that.
2) 5b, 28m. Head up the small chimney/groove and pass through Dream... and move up and right into the top of a small leftward-trending groove. Continue on in the same direction to a longer groove line right of a smooth slab. Just below the top, move right to gain an exit crack leading to the final ledge of Wen. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, AMC Uni Ticklist.

Photo: Nicky enjoying the last few moves. © Jamie Skelton
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 271 logbooks, and on 66 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/15

Route finding tricky on pitch three due to rubbish description. Should read move up off the belay, through the "Dream" traverse then move right before ascending the pocketed wall. Move right over the overlap on good holds then back left. Belayed just before this as I got lost.
spragglerocks - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/15 with David Kay

Started up the first pitch of Wen which was worthwhile. I spent a lot of time leading P2 and we topped out just as the sun was setting. Very exciting!
David Kay - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/15 with Rachael Spraggs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/15

Tom Livingstone - AltLd rpt - 12/Aug/15 with Oli Grounsell

D.Russell - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/15 with Ally

Ally Baba - AltLd - 11/Aug/15 with dougie

wi11 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/15 with Rene

davewsargent - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/15 with peter sargent

pie_eater_pete - 12/Jul/15

Cold and windy Led 1st pitch
mike mo - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Roger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15

2nd pitch. Was very windy!
08nbrierley - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with jamie

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/15

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/15 with Jim Tan

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/15

dan ely - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/15 with steve london

Cruisy after initial thin bit
stevoland - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/15

Lead all 3 pitches. P2 was awesome
markalmack - Lead O/S - 16/May/15 with Rachel Huxley

p2 brilliant, 7 bft
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 12/May/15 with Aidan

morganator - AltLd O/S - 01/May/15 with Stan Halstead

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/15

Lead p1. Very cold... Like an.. Err... Icicle.
mattnuttall - AltLd rpt - 26/Apr/15 with Andy Wilson

Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/15 with Matt Nuttall

jonleighton - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/15

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/15 with John Leighton

Hidden - 2015

Dave Rumney - 2015

Dave Rumney - 2015

Dave Rumney - 2015

Hidden - 2nd - 2015

Led P1 - one or two moves above gear but mostly well protected using nuts and cams. Esther led P2 - both the description and the topo were misleading. Just go straight up the chimney from the belay and pass the roof to the right. lovely pitch with a jug wherever you need it. Two high quality pitches.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Esther Bott

Rachel Somerville - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/14 with Paul Rigby

James led the delicate P1, on which the hand holds are surprisingly good.I led P2 which although easier, is still great fun.
adamre12 - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14 with JamesWilliams

Lead the icicle pitch which was awesome, a bit thin and run out to start but when it opens into more of a crack the gear is good and there is plenty of it. Lovely and sunny day. Pitch 2 much easier E1 5b
JamesWilliams - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Adam Revill

Great climb! I led the Quartz pitch and it's a beauty. Sustained but never too hard. generally good gear and one slightly thin section that has a great sequence. Top pitch is also good fun and you still need something left for the finish. 3 stars all the way. Very happy to lead this one, as we'd abbed in to warm up on Wen, but a team above were going slowly and faffing with their ropes. I looked at the line of Quartz and just thought 'I want to lead this'. So glad we did it.
andyjirvin - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/14 with helen gibson

in the drizzle/rain ! backed off first pitch. 1st pitch felt like e2 5b sustained, 2nd pitch easier e1 5b.
Helen Gibson - 2nd - 19/Jul/14 with dan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/14

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 06/Jul/14 with Rhys

P2. Went a bit off route. First pitch was ok, didn't live up to the hype.
Ewano - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Pete Danson

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jun/14

robw007 - AltLd - 15/Jun/14

P3. Brilliant climbing throughout. Couple of thin moves through crux on P2 and P3 doesn't look likely from the belay but the holds keep on coming.
BTphonehome - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Tony

Brilliant route, I led icicle pitch but thought top pitch was even better.
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Bram

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14

Great line definately worth 3 stars, a touch bold in places but mainly decent gear and the climbing is not very hard.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Chris Gooder

I led the icicle pitch and Dougie led the final pitch (skipped P1 due to tides). Superb climbing on both pitches! None of the moves were desperate and the gear was good (especially on the icicle); thought it was low end E2.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Beautiful route. missed the first pitch. lead 2nd pitch. low in the grade.
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

james1978 - Lead O/S - Apr/14 with pam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/14

First pitch, very niice. Daniel didin't fancy the suggested route of the second pitch and decided to conquer his grande blanc bulge which made some nice climbing
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/14 with Dan

Led final pitch, went a bit off route up a big overhang. Woops
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/14 with Ben Ryle

Frank the Husky - 2014

Seymore Butt - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

alasdair19 - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13

duncandarnell - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13

Led the main quartz pitch. Awesomesauce. James led the original finish, which was really rather good.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with James Oswald

Lead the final pitch, pulling round the roof is great. Much more pleasant ascent than last Summer's... Lots of great climbing on this route.
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Colin Angus

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/13

ben8522 - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Simon Allcock - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13 with Mary, Wilki

mes32 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/13 with Simon Allcock, Wilki

Me 2nd pitch and first E2, Neil 3rd pitch
Marq - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Stuart (Neil's mate), Neil Redgrave (LMC)

Skipped P1. Mark led P2, Neil P3.
stuaart - 2nd - 25/May/13 with marq, Neil Redgrave

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13 with Dave Ogden

dave o - AltLd O/S - 21/May/13 with Andy Inglis

Jillybean - 2nd - 27/Apr/13 with Brad

Hidden - Apr/13

Nick Biven - 2013

led original finish pitch - be back for other finish - excellent route!
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/12 with Dale, Kelvin

Abbed down to do this but did the final pitch of concrete chimney as jon had a horrific time due to wind. The wind was incredibly strong. Lots of lessons to learn from this, I'll be back when it's stiller and therefore awesome and not scary. Scary experience for Jon. Wanted to get out as quick as possible after P1.
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Jon Stewart

Mafting as fuck. Led P2.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Ben R

Heaps warm, lead pitch 1, really nice climbing.
Bennykr - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Alex mason

Did top two pitches only. Really nice climbing on the quartz. Not sure we found the right final pitch as it was rather easy, but still pleasant.
Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Hugh Thomas

Hidden - Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/12

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 06/May/12 with Viv

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

drysori - AltLd - May/12 with Sam Burns

Both pitches, interesting route finding on the second. Just, WOW!
richardr - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Mark Leicester

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

Started with P2, absolutely stunning, wee bit breezy
Sardien - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Andy Scott

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Jake Lodge, Harry Thorpe

2nd and 3rd pitch. Lead 2nd. Exposed, intimidating and bold. Great.
thetradlad - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Laurence Everitt, Harry Thorpe

Harry Thorpe - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Jake Lodge, Laurence Everitt

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Sep/11

Drew M - AltLd - 24/Sep/11 with Ed Feldman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/11

Lead main pitch.
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/11 with Matt Harris

led the last pitch, went a bit far right into the next groove along, felt about 5c, great moves though
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Ben Hirst

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11

Roz pitch 1, me pitch 2
3 Names - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/11 with Roslyn Mckendry

4c, 5b, 5b. Skipped P1 due to tides (same as P1 of Wen). I led P2, Vince led P3. Great route.
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/11 with Vince

bsmedz - AltLd dnf - 04/Jul/11 with Peter Sargent

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

dan ely - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with steve

Chris M - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Polly

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with Dad and sarah

What a great route to second!Guidebook description of top pitch not very clear.
zukator - 2nd - 14/Jun/11 with Sarah, Owain

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/11

Led 2nd pitch. Very good.
Dangerous Dave - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with Wild Beast

Start felt bold as hell, awesome but scary after the good gear and holds on main cliff! First pitch only (finished up concrete chimney).
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mike

P1, Great route, didnt see Ollie Henson anywhere though?
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Not Ollie Henson, Max

Brillent route, But where was Mr Henson?
maxamusdecamus - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

tuftynick - 2011

Quartz pitch for me. Great climbing. Ralph seemed to go a bit direct on the top pitch, made things interesting.
Dave Warburton - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Ralph Burden

Hidden - Lead - 13/Oct/10

have been wanting to do this since seeing the picture in the ground up guide. awesome route. P1
willoates - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Olly Sanders

Led the second pitch. Tricky route finding as it all looks so improbable, but I thought it was pretty soft 5b. Incredible route!
al99 - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Andrew Bitmead

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Sep/10

Fantastic climbing on both second and third pitches.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Naomi Hart

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Peter Hart

mr mills - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Gareth

Pitch 2 - Direct Finish
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/10

First pitch just involved the same move continuously... second pitch looked nails but was all jugs. Take chalk on a hot day, haha.
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Will Nicholls

Sandy Simpson - 14/Aug/10 with Ross Hewitt

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10

hardoreVdiffBen - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Remus

amazing route... and yet again, true to form the Ground Up topo manages to get the line wrong
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Mark

Lead P2. Both pitches are brilliant. The first is a tough warm up, very sustained. The second becomes obvious as you leave the belay, lots of hard to see holds from below and great moves over the overlap.
Dave Foster - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10

adamscottthomas - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Kafoozalem

Felt more like a bold E1 never strenuous just a bit run out. Excellent route though in an amazing position worth 3 stars.
Diggler - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with andyob

abbed to ledge....I lead the first 5b pitch..thin section made difficult by the mist makng all holds greasy and these especially..its not over there though..although not the crux 2nd pitch is good and tricky..awesome route!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Dave Morse

First pitch must be one of the best at the big G. Quality
david morse - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Duncan

Led P2. Lovely and thought provoking thin moves before the relief of the crack.
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Apr/10

harvie - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/10

lead the second pitch did the original finish. the whole route is awsome. Will be back to lead the first pitch and do the other finish.
Dale - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Tim

Started on 2nd pitch, nice lead; gear required thought and though spaced, was good. Nice!
farmus21 - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with James Marjot

soph - Lead - 01/Jan/10 with Dan McManus

loved it, has everything, good exposure, balacy moves,loads of features to use
andyob - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Diggler

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 21/Oct/09

Lead the 2nd pitch
HeatherF - AltLd - 21/Oct/09 with Tom R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/09

Led both pitches. Felt like E2 5c. Quite an intense experience.
Stig - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Chris

chrishedgehog - 2nd - 23/Jul/09 with James

i started on second pitch
barni - AltLd O/S - 12/May/09 with Paul Warnock

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 2009 with neil thomas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08

Led first pitch
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with John Vincent

Hidden - Sep/08

dts - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Andy Taylor, Sam Dixon

popov86 - 2nd - Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08

2nd and 3rd pitches only, both lead
alaan - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Pete

petellis - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Alaan

Hidden - 2nd - May/08

Al Evans - 2008

Started from the first stance of Wen. 5b, 5b. Led first pitch.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Brian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/07 with Rob Grant

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Led p1
cem - AltLd rpt - 12/May/07 with Patrick Hutchison

Hidden - Apr/07

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Bob

mux - 2007

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd - 2007 with Chris Watkins

datoon - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06 with MJ

a_radiohead_fan - Sep/06

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/06

LC - Lead O/S - Aug/06

Will1 - Jul/06 with Mike

Very cool climb, bottom pitch probably a tad harder with more good gear and pitch 2 (my lead) probably a touch easier but a little more runout. All in all, absoulotely lovely climbing in a nice position that is never to dangerous!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/06

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/06 with Ed Booth

Tom M Williams - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/06 with Andy Hobson

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06

jim robertson - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Mark Reeves - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Dave Reeve - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Tony Payne

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

nige - AltLd - 28/Apr/04 with mark hounslea

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Will

Pete Graham - 2nd - 2004 with Rick Graham

Urgles - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Dave

lukea - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/03 with Al

Led p2 (original finish)
cem - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/02 with Graham Dolman

nickdonohue - AltLd - Jul/02 with Joe Brown

Christian Beck - Lead O/S - May/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/01

Hidden - 2001

sadams - AltLd - 01/May/00 with Tom Briggs

brilliant route!!
WB - Lead O/S - 01/May/00 with Paul

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999

NeilGriffiths - 1999 with Dave Garry, James Hubbard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/98

Hidden - AltLd - 11/May/98

Hidden - AltLd - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/97

frost - AltLd - Jul/96 with S Raw

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/96 with Chris Wilson

Ched - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/95 with Mark Hamilton

NickJH - Aug/94

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 01/May/94 with lola gunn

lead both pitches
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/94 with Alan Holden

Ian Jones - Lead β - 1994 with Karen Ghiselli

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/93

aptly named
whispering nic - Lead - Dec/92 with Ali W

mark-abz - Lead - 27/Aug/91 with Andy W

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/91

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 18/May/91 with Perric Crellin

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 1991

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

Andy Say - Lead - 11/Aug/90

Hidden - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Neil R - 2nd - 27/May/89 with Howard

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/88

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - 2nd - May/87

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/86

neilh - Lead - 25/May/85 with dave croker

climbed on a number of occasions, usually lead all pitches. One memorable ascent in high wind in nov 88 with john robinson
uphillnow - Lead - 05/May/85 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

andy gittins - 1985

Lone Rider - AltLd - 07/Aug/84 with Alan Shand

Roy Stuart - AltLd O/S - 1984 with Billy Bones

keefe - 20/Aug/83

steve L - Lead - 21/May/83 with Pat

Gezzer - AltLd - 1983 with Andy Towne

2,L. Again 16/6/1984, L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/82 with Ian Milne

Mike Owen - 10/Aug/81 with Elaine Watson

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 04/May/81

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/81

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/80

Chris Craggs - 1980

With Andy Newton
steveboote - AltLd - 1980

mikej - AltLd - 10/Aug/79 with Mike Byles

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1977

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/76

Hidden - AltLd - 1976

Andy led p1. I led p2 and had a hell of a stuggle to find the right line.
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 1945 with Andy Gill

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Morrell, ebf, Rollo, AliceGB, Davesmith1981, foostu4, Jamie Skelton, atom, mzk, benclimbing, ned_85, Emma Reynolds, khalidq, hutchay, mike mo, gavinpeach, Paul Collins, Shauna, jimxxx, nigel pearson, tomhull, alexanderjwatts, Sam Marks, The Green Giant, pabbage, Different Steve, rustaldo, derekb, karmaclimbing, middlevern, jelaby, climbingpixie, oliverthomp, Swotson, Owen W-G, IanJackson, Dr Fran (Vagabond MC), Northen Vince, Chris the Tall

Total votes cast 197
hard E30 of 67
E30 of 67
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hard 5c0 of 66
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