Rockfax Description
Another great route, that takes the quartz band that looks like a lightning bolt frozen in geology. Start by abseiling to the belay on the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 40m. Move left to join the start of the quartz streak. Follow this, passing a few tricky moves, to where the streak turns into a crack, and follow this to broken easier ground and a small groove 6m right of the Dream... belay. You can move left to belay as for Dream... if you plan to finish up that.
2) 5b, 28m. Head up the small chimney/groove and pass through Dream... and move up and right into the top of a small leftward-trending groove. Continue on in the same direction to a longer groove line right of a smooth slab. Just below the top, move right to gain an exit crack leading to the final ledge of Wen. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, AMC Uni Ticklist.

Hidden 10/Oct AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep AltLd rpt
spragglerocks 29/Aug AltLd O/S

Route finding tricky on pitch three due to rubbish description. Should read move up off the belay, through the "Dream" traverse then move right before ascending the pocketed wall. Move right over the overlap on good holds then back left. Belayed just before this as I got lost.

David Kay 29/Aug AltLd O/S

Started up the first pitch of Wen which was worthwhile. I spent a lot of time leading P2 and we topped out just as the sun was setting. Very exciting!

Hidden 28/Aug Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 12/Aug AltLd rpt
with Oli Grounsell
D.Russell 11/Aug AltLd O/S
with Ally
Ally Baba 11/Aug AltLd
with dougie
wi11 23/Jul Lead O/S
with Rene
davewsargent 12/Jul 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 12/Jul -
mike mo 11/Jul AltLd O/S

Cold and windy Led 1st pitch

with Roger
Hidden 04/Jul AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 04/Jul AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Was very windy!

with jamie
Hidden 27/Jun AltLd
Pete Rigby 22/Jun AltLd O/S
with Jim Tan
Hidden 14/Jun Lead
Hidden 13/Jun AltLd O/S
dan ely 11/Jun 2nd rpt
with steve london
stevoland 11/Jun Lead O/S

Cruisy after initial thin bit

markalmack 16/May Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches. P2 was awesome

with Rachel Huxley
Hannes B 12/May Lead O/S

p2 brilliant, 7 bft

with Aidan
morganator 01/May AltLd O/S
with Stan Halstead
Hidden 01/May Lead O/S
mattnuttall 26/Apr AltLd rpt

Lead p1. Very cold... Like an.. Err... Icicle.

with Andy Wilson
Andrew Wilson 26/Apr AltLd O/S


with Matt Nuttall
jonleighton 20/Apr AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 20/Apr AltLd O/S
with John Leighton
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Pete_Frost 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 - one or two moves above gear but mostly well protected using nuts and cams. Esther led P2 - both the description and the topo were misleading. Just go straight up the chimney from the belay and pass the roof to the right. lovely pitch with a jug wherever you need it. Two high quality pitches.

with Esther Bott
Rachel Somerville 18/Sep/14 AltLd O/S


adamre12 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

James led the delicate P1, on which the hand holds are surprisingly good.I led P2 which although easier, is still great fun.

JamesWilliams 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the icicle pitch which was awesome, a bit thin and run out to start but when it opens into more of a crack the gear is good and there is plenty of it. Lovely and sunny day. Pitch 2 much easier E1 5b

andyjirvin 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Great climb! I led the Quartz pitch and it's a beauty. Sustained but never too hard. generally good gear and one slightly thin section that has a great sequence. Top pitch is also good fun and you still need something left for the finish. 3 stars all the way. Very happy to lead this one, as we'd abbed in to warm up on Wen, but a team above were going slowly and faffing with their ropes. I looked at the line of Quartz and just thought 'I want to lead this'. So glad we did it.

Hidden 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S
dan gibson 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 19/Jul/14 2nd

in the drizzle/rain ! backed off first pitch. 1st pitch felt like e2 5b sustained, 2nd pitch easier e1 5b.

with dan
Hidden 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Matthew Robinson 06/Jul/14 AltLd
with Rhys
Ewano 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Went a bit off route. First pitch was ok, didn't live up to the hype.

Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd
robw007 15/Jun/14 AltLd
BTphonehome 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P3. Brilliant climbing throughout. Couple of thin moves through crux on P2 and P3 doesn't look likely from the belay but the holds keep on coming.

with Tony
tmawer 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, I led icicle pitch but thought top pitch was even better.

with Bram
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Great line definately worth 3 stars, a touch bold in places but mainly decent gear and the climbing is not very hard.

shed_hed 11/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

I led the icicle pitch and Dougie led the final pitch (skipped P1 due to tides). Superb climbing on both pitches! None of the moves were desperate and the gear was good (especially on the icicle); thought it was low end E2.

dswansonlow 11/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Beautiful route. missed the first pitch. lead 2nd pitch. low in the grade.

james1978 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with pam
Hidden 25/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt
BenRyle 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

First pitch, very niice. Daniel didin't fancy the suggested route of the second pitch and decided to conquer his grande blanc bulge which made some nice climbing

with Dan
Dan724 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led final pitch, went a bit off route up a big overhang. Woops

Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
duncandarnell 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led the main quartz pitch. Awesomesauce. James led the original finish, which was really rather good.

James Oswald 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the final pitch, pulling round the roof is great. Much more pleasant ascent than last Summer's... Lots of great climbing on this route.

with Colin Angus
Hidden 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
ben8522 ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Simon Allcock 31/May/13 2nd O/S
with Mary, Wilki
mes32 30/May/13 2nd O/S
with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Marq 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Me 2nd pitch and first E2, Neil 3rd pitch

with Stuart (Neil's mate), Neil Redgrave (LMC)
stuaart 25/May/13 2nd

Skipped P1. Mark led P2, Neil P3.

with marq, Neil Redgrave
andyinglis 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
dave o 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
Jillybean 27/Apr/13 2nd
with Brad
Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Dizz 17/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

led original finish pitch - be back for other finish - excellent route!

with Dale, Kelvin
James Oswald 04/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Abbed down to do this but did the final pitch of concrete chimney as jon had a horrific time due to wind. The wind was incredibly strong. Lots of lessons to learn from this, I'll be back when it's stiller and therefore awesome and not scary. Scary experience for Jon. Wanted to get out as quick as possible after P1.

Alex Mason 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Mafting as fuck. Led P2.

with Ben R
Bennykr 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Heaps warm, lead pitch 1, really nice climbing.

Oliver Sherman 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Did top two pitches only. Really nice climbing on the quartz. Not sure we found the right final pitch as it was rather easy, but still pleasant.

with Hugh Thomas
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/May/12 Lead
with Viv
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
drysori ?/May/12 AltLd
richardr 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Both pitches, interesting route finding on the second. Just, WOW!

with Mark Leicester
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
Sardien 19/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Started with P2, absolutely stunning, wee bit breezy

with Andy Scott
Laurence Everitt 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
thetradlad 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

2nd and 3rd pitch. Lead 2nd. Exposed, intimidating and bold. Great.

Harry Thorpe 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S


Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 AltLd
Drew M 24/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead main pitch.

with Matt Harris
simon kimber 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

led the last pitch, went a bit far right into the next groove along, felt about 5c, great moves though

with Ben Hirst
Hidden 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
3 Names 20/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Roz pitch 1, me pitch 2

givemetea 20/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

4c, 5b, 5b. Skipped P1 due to tides (same as P1 of Wen). I led P2, Vince led P3. Great route.

with Vince
bsmedz 04/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
with Peter Sargent
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd
dan ely 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with steve
Chris M 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Polly
Owain Llewelyn 14/Jun/11 Lead
with Dad and sarah
zukator 14/Jun/11 2nd

What a great route to second!Guidebook description of top pitch not very clear.

with Sarah, Owain
Hidden 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Dangerous Dave 31/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Very good.

with Wild Beast
thomasadixon 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Start felt bold as hell, awesome but scary after the good gear and holds on main cliff! First pitch only (finished up concrete chimney).

with Mike
owain86 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

P1, Great route, didnt see Ollie Henson anywhere though?

with Not Ollie Henson, Max
maxamusdecamus 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Brillent route, But where was Mr Henson?

Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
tuftynick ??/2011 -
Dave Warburton 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Quartz pitch for me. Great climbing. Ralph seemed to go a bit direct on the top pitch, made things interesting.

with Ralph Burden
Hidden 13/Oct/10 Lead
willoates 08/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

have been wanting to do this since seeing the picture in the ground up guide. awesome route. P1

with Olly Sanders
al99 07/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch. Tricky route finding as it all looks so improbable, but I thought it was pretty soft 5b. Incredible route!

with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd
PeteH 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing on both second and third pitches.

NaomiHart 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
mr mills 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
metal arms 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 - Direct Finish

smallerrich 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First pitch just involved the same move continuously... second pitch looked nails but was all jugs. Take chalk on a hot day, haha.

with Will Nicholls
Sandy Simpson 14/Aug/10 -
with Ross Hewitt
Hidden 29/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Remus
msoldn 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

amazing route... and yet again, true to form the Ground Up topo manages to get the line wrong

with Mark
Dave Foster 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Both pitches are brilliant. The first is a tough warm up, very sustained. The second becomes obvious as you leave the belay, lots of hard to see holds from below and great moves over the overlap.

with Andy
Hidden 29/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
adamscottthomas 17/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Diggler 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Felt more like a bold E1 never strenuous just a bit run out. Excellent route though in an amazing position worth 3 stars.

with andyob
Duncan Campbell 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

abbed to ledge....I lead the first 5b pitch..thin section made difficult by the mist makng all holds greasy and these especially..its not over there though..although not the crux 2nd pitch is good and tricky..awesome route!

david morse 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

First pitch must be one of the best at the big G. Quality

with Duncan
Dr Toph 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Lovely and thought provoking thin moves before the relief of the crack.

with Ed
Hidden 26/Apr/10 AltLd
harvie 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Dale ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

lead the second pitch did the original finish. the whole route is awsome. Will be back to lead the first pitch and do the other finish.

with Tim
farmus21 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Started on 2nd pitch, nice lead; gear required thought and though spaced, was good. Nice!

with James Marjot
soph 01/Jan/10 Lead
with Dan McManus
andyob ??/2010 AltLd O/S

loved it, has everything, good exposure, balacy moves,loads of features to use

with Diggler
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 21/Oct/09 -
HeatherF 21/Oct/09 AltLd

Lead the 2nd pitch

with Tom R
Hidden 07/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Stig 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Felt like E2 5c. Quite an intense experience.

with Chris
chrishedgehog 23/Jul/09 2nd
with James
barni 12/May/09 AltLd O/S

i started on second pitch

with Paul Warnock
reg_measures ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with neil thomas
Hidden 16/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
mattyork2 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

with John Vincent
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
dts 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy Taylor, Sam Dixon
popov86 ?/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
alaan 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

2nd and 3rd pitches only, both lead

with Pete
petellis 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Alaan
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd
Al Evans ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Started from the first stance of Wen. 5b, 5b. Led first pitch.

with Brian
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 16/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
cem 12/May/07 AltLd rpt

Led p1

with Patrick Hutchison
Hidden ?/Apr/07 -
Toby Dunn 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Bob
mux ??/2007 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 AltLd
with Chris Watkins
datoon 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with MJ
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Ben1983 14/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
LC ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Ed Booth 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Very cool climb, bottom pitch probably a tad harder with more good gear and pitch 2 (my lead) probably a touch easier but a little more runout. All in all, absoulotely lovely climbing in a nice position that is never to dangerous!

Adam Booth 13/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Tom M Williams 07/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Andy Hobson
Hidden 07/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dave Reeve ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Tony Payne
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
nige 28/Apr/04 AltLd
with mark hounslea
haydng ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Will
Pete Graham ??/2004 2nd
with Rick Graham
Urgles ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Dave
lukea 27/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Al
cem 13/Jul/02 AltLd O/S

Led p2 (original finish)

nickdonohue ?/Jul/02 AltLd
with Joe Brown
Christian Beck ?/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
sadams 01/May/00 AltLd
with Tom Briggs
WB 01/May/00 Lead O/S

brilliant route!!

with Paul
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1999 -
with Dave Garry, James Hubbard
Hidden 01/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/May/98 AltLd
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
Hidden 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
frost ?/Jul/96 AltLd
with S Raw
Campbell42 05/May/96 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
Ched 21/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Mark Hamilton
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
michael burrows 01/May/94 Lead rpt
with lola gunn
mattnuttall 29/Mar/94 Lead O/S

lead both pitches

with Alan Holden
Ian Jones ??/1994 Lead β
with Karen Ghiselli
Rich Kirby 27/Jun/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Dec/92 Lead

aptly named

with Ali W
mark-abz 27/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden 18/May/91 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 18/May/91 AltLd
with Perric Crellin
PaulTanton ??/1991 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Andy Say 11/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Neil R 27/May/89 2nd
with Howard
Hidden 05/Apr/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden ?/May/87 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/86 AltLd
neilh 25/May/85 Lead
with dave croker
uphillnow 05/May/85 Lead

climbed on a number of occasions, usually lead all pitches. One memorable ascent in high wind in nov 88 with john robinson

with Andrew (Pog) Horn
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Lone Rider 07/Aug/84 AltLd
with Alan Shand
Roy Stuart ??/1984 AltLd O/S
with Billy Bones
keefe 20/Aug/83 -
steve L 21/May/83 Lead
with Pat
Gezzer ??/1983 AltLd
with Andy Towne
charlesmfrench 10/Jul/82 AltLd O/S

2,L. Again 16/6/1984, L,2.

with Ian Milne
Mike Owen 10/Aug/81 -
with Elaine Watson
Dave Musgrove 04/May/81 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/81 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/80 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
steveboote ??/1980 AltLd

With Andy Newton

mikej 10/Aug/79 AltLd
with Mike Byles
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1977 Lead
Hidden 30/May/76 AltLd
Hidden ??/1976 AltLd
Pete Nugent ??/1945 AltLd O/S

Andy led p1. I led p2 and had a hell of a stuggle to find the right line.

with Andy Gill
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 67
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 66
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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