UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route with a frustrating stopper move. Start under the corner below the right-hand end of the half-height ledge.
1) 5a, 28m. Ascend the corner to the half-height ledge.
2) 5c 28m. From the middle of the ledge, climb up to a tight groove. Climb this to a hard more where it kinks right. Shuffle right along the sloping ledge to continuation groove above. This is tricky to start but eases as you get higher. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1. 5a The right facing corner crack is excellant, sustained and a bit harder than it looks
P2. 5c Harder but not as good as the first pitch. Climb up from the middle of the ledge to a left-facing groove (the peg has gone, but there are wire placements) and then a second groove to the top

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , UK Extreme Corners , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Brimham55 5 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The difficulties at the start lead to a flake, behind which is yet another firmly wedged RP with an orange ToughTag. I couldn't get the piece out so thank to Evie someone or other. It's very welcome.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The difficulties at the start lead to a flake, behind which is yet another firmly wedged RP with an orange ToughTag. I couldn't get the piece out so thank to Evie someone or other. It's very welcome.
Dexter JW 16 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Helpfully replaced the previously stuck wire with a new one, you're welcome world (15/05/21)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Helpfully replaced the previously stuck wire with a new one, you're welcome world (15/05/21)
Dizz 17 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is very bold without it's original pegs!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is very bold without it's original pegs!
Mike D 3 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Take some microwires for P2's crux corner; the stuck wire is long gone.
Show beta
βeta: Take some microwires for P2's crux corner; the stuck wire is long gone.

Logged Ascents

404 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 30 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Emulator

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

Loading Notifications...