UKC

Restricted Access

Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Choughs are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minimum. Due to an increase in roosting birds, please avoid climbing during dusk (1hour before sunset). 

Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove

35m.

Rockfax Description
A long pitch moving out right from Map of the Problematique. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A good climb that takes a line of grooves and slabs just to the right of Map of the Problematique.

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 24/Nov/2016.

Feedback

User Date Notes
harold walmsley 30 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Mid way lower off has not been removed. There never was an intermediate lower off dedicated to this route. You use the lower off of the routes to the right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mid way lower off has not been removed. There never was an intermediate lower off dedicated to this route. You use the lower off of the routes to the right.
JManfredi 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Overall pretty solid, but take care with some of the flake/blocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Overall pretty solid, but take care with some of the flake/blocks.
Ian Ford 5 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Possible with a 60m but a 70m would be better and safer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possible with a 60m but a 70m would be better and safer.
LucaC 10 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Mid way lower off mentioned in some of the comments has been removed. 70m rope required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mid way lower off mentioned in some of the comments has been removed. 70m rope required.
cymjt 3 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Dodgy block at the crux with is almost impossible to avoid. Treat with care!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dodgy block at the crux with is almost impossible to avoid. Treat with care!

Logged Ascents

96 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Third Dimension

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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