UKC

150m. The nearest ridge on the north side of South Gully has many fine torquing moves and jammed flakes, best when well frozen and not too dry. Much of the climbing is escapable but still entertaining. Easier and harder lines are possible, but this seemed fairly direct while still natural. Start at the lowest rocks and climb a groove in the initial crest. A short walk leads to a steeper section. Start this by a right-slanting ramp, then make a tricky step left on to the crest. Climb a narrow chimney just left of the crest. Climb the next steep section by a groove just left of the crest. This leads to the sharp but very artificial upper ridge, still fun over every block.

Andy Nisbet 03/Dec/2007.

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Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Flake Buttress (Winter)

Grade: III ***
(Ben Macdui - Stob Coire Sputan Dearg)

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