Restricted Access
Located on private land - there are signs suggesting that access is not allowed but it is belived that these signs are left over from when contractors were carrying out substantial felling and other forestry works in the area in 2018. There are no recent reports of access issues.
Rockfax Description
Start a few metres right of the keyhole below another pocket a few metres up the cliff. Arrange gear and make a tricky move to get stood in this. Head on up to a bulge and climb this direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
I have changed the grade given for this route, old grade votes have been deleted. The "crux" is a perfectly protected 2 hand pull on a huge hold.
The line shown and described in Rockfax is actually Robbin's Nest, this route is about 3 metres to the right - possibly the reason for some of the "overgraded" comments?
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SuperLee1985 | 25 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I would strongly disagree with the "UKC Logbook Description" of "The "crux" is a perfectly protected 2 hand pull on a huge hold." This sounds more like it is describing Robin's Nest. This route begins below a small round pocket just above head height in which one can place a nut. The crux is to get stood in this pocket but involves pulling on quite small handholds. I wouldn't want to bet on the gear preventing a groudfall if one was to fall from above it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I would strongly disagree with the "UKC Logbook Description" of "The "crux" is a perfectly protected 2 hand pull on a huge hold." This sounds more like it is describing Robin's Nest. This route begins below a small round pocket just above head height in which one can place a nut. The crux is to get stood in this pocket but involves pulling on quite small handholds. I wouldn't want to bet on the gear preventing a groudfall if one was to fall from above it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Y Tonnau
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One Step in the Clouds
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))