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El Zulú Demente (La Visera)*** 7a+

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[ChrisJD lost in a sea of Pudding Stones on the never ending overhanging 6b pitches on "Zulu Demente", Riglos, 2 kb]270m. 8 Pitches: 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b, 6b, 6b, 7a+. The hard final pitch can be aided (A1).
F Gutiérrez, F Caballé, S & J Arnaudas, S de Pedro 1983

Photo: ChrisJD lost in a sea of Pudding Stones on the never ending overhanging 6b pitches on "Zulu Demente", Riglos © rc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Did L1-3 on Saturday but retreated - massive queues, holdups and then waiting to see what the weather did during the thunderstorm. Approached the headwall via Moskitos on Sunday as lower slabs still looked a bit damp. 2 rest points seconding the top pitch. Mega steep, mega exposed, mega fun.
AJM - AltLd - 13/Apr/14 with Charles Hubbard

What an amazing route. In short, the best of the three we climbed on La Visera. Sustained 6b/6b+ climbing until the final pitch, with an 'epic' 45m pitch to get to this point. All of the pitches are fantastic, with the overhang coming off the ground on P1 setting the tone for some steep climbing, all the way to the final meters where the crux of the route is to be found. P2 is excellent, being a series of the famous 'panzas', P3 gains the headwall via some pleasant and not too steep climbing (6b) before a U-shaped traverse L then R (6b+) unlocks the 'epic' overhanging stamina pitch of 45m to a suspended belay some 40m below the top of the wall. From this point, we opted to climb the short '6b' pitch and the crux pitch together. Another option would be to split them. From this point of view we are ok with a 7b onsight rating. The short 6b is actually very hard, harder than some pitches on Fiesta which generously get 6c in my opinion. The final pitch is reputed for its boulder crux in the final couple of meters, however, it has a pretty hard crux just coming off the belay ledge and then a series of hard moves before you break into the grey summital rock. I'm happy with 7b but not too bothered if the consensus is 7a+. By this point you're pumped out of your mind, so it doesn't really matter. Just a word on our style prompted by what we saw going on around us. It was a Sunday, and unlike on previous days and routes, there were some other parties on the Direct to the L who then cut in above us to 'aid' the last pitch of Zulu. Generally all the local climbers' seconds (and sometimes leaders) seemed content to aid climb any hard sections - it's very much the Sunday style at Riglos. That's fine, but I am happy we free climbed all our routes and particularly this one, though it was out of keeping with the overall form this day on the wall. We also honed our big wall skills by hauling a pack on our tag line, and managing this and double ropes through 5 hanging belays (and one ledge belay) in the breeze. Quite amazing how far out the tag line goes, as the leader moves up the implausible, overhanging wall! A top, top route. Definitely demente!
John Carney - AltLd - 02/Feb/14 with Germain Mousset

JulesV - Lead dog - 13/Mar/13

keefe - AltLd - 10/Nov/12 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Good day, Fiesta in the morning & El Zulu in the afternoon
Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 10/Nov/12 with keefe

mikeshewring - AltLd - 15/Oct/12

merged pitches 3,4 and 5,6 and 7/8 together to make zulu in to 5 pitches worked really nice 23 quickdraws used
Haydn Jones - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/12 with tonanf, pep

tonanf - AltLd - Apr/12 with hayden, andy, Pep

Ally Smith - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Dan Arkle

Dan Arkle - AltLd O/S - Oct/11

Tom Livingstone - AltLd - 19/Apr/11

Awesome! Hard to really get across how good it is. Sit down rests on overhanging rock. Lead P1, P3&4 (ran together) and P7. Running pitches together makes it flow nicely. Great top pitch though was overtaken by the pump with the rucksack on.
farmus21 - AltLd - 18/Apr/11 with Sam Radcliffe

samrad - AltLd - 18/Apr/11 with james G

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/10

Onsight until the final 2 metres! Pumped silly.
Jus - AltLd - 10/Oct/09 with Jake Shaw

Awesome route. Pretty much the same all the way until the last 3/4m when the jugs run out!
Jake Shaw - AltLd - 10/Oct/09 with Justin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/08

Some aid.
Paul Robertson - AltLd - 29/Mar/08 with Dave Turnbull

Hidden - AltLd dog - 01/Mar/08

Hidden - AltLd dog - 01/Mar/08

Hidden - 25/Sep/07

Aided the Last 7a+ pitch.
ChrisJD - AltLd - 18/Apr/06 with rc

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/06

Luis SD - AltLd dog - May/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Timothy Miller, Callum_Johnson, Kevster, Mattlamb90, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Oliver Branagan

Voting
Total votes cast 19
hard 7b0 of 9
7b1 of 9
easy 7b0 of 9
hard 7a+6 of 9
7a+2 of 9
easy 7a+0 of 9
hard 7a0 of 9
7a0 of 9
easy 7a0 of 9
3 Stars10 of 10
2 Stars0 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead1 of 24 (4.2%)
Alt Leads22 of 24 (91.7%)
Unknown1 of 24 (4.2%)

'Climbed'15 of 24 (62.5%)
clean O/S5 of 24 (20.8%)
dogged4 of 24 (16.7%)