A fine route with a serious first pitch and strenuous top one. Start 8m up left from Left-hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1) 5c, 28m. Climb the groove to join Left-hand Red Wall at the small roof. Move immediately left to a hollow-sounding flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-hand Red Wall belay before traversing right to it.
2) 6b, 28m. Go diagonally up left to an overlap. Arrange some gear (micro cam useful) and make steep technical moves on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a huge groove. Ascend the enjoyable groove more easily, to a swing right at its end. Finish up the airy wall. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Not as badly protected as the page cover of the guide makes it look. Possible only 6a
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.