Pagan*** E4 5c
[The epitome of trad shuffling....., 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Another classic line that has notoriously tricky route finding. Start as for Deygo.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock, with little in the way of gear, past a poor peg, to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge. This is Deygo P1.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb straight up from the belay on dodgy rock to a vague break-line. Traverse left to below a tricky wall, with an even vaguer groove. Follow the groove up and slightly right, before heading straight up to gain a ramp-line leading up right to a ledge at the base of a large flake. Belay at the base of this flake.
3) 5c, 42m. Wade up the flake in a great position to its end at a break. Follow the break left to a small niche, then move up this trending rightwards into a deep slot - passing this is the crux. Follow the easiest line to a groove that leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best outing on Red Walls, Loose, adventurous and at times dangerous.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: The epitome of trad shuffling..... © richard kirby
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/15

Belays weren't to my taste. 1st belay takes No. 3 camalot. Enjoyed the last pitch. the rest was a bit too loose and dangerous to enjoy.
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/14 with will

Wasn't too keen on going back after the day before. The first pitch should read climb over the stream through the mud and under the waterfall to reach a sketchy belay which needs a number 3 camalot. Not much fun. Rest of the route is really good.
WB - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/14 with Mark

breed - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Tim newton

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13 with brad reed

Ace day. First pitch was getting dripped on from all the seepage, second pitch through the seepage and rain on the third! Cold and windy, totally suited the route.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/13 with George Ullrich

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12

A great adventure. The first pitch was a proper mankfest but the top two were suprisingly solid.Led p.2, great lead by Andy on p.1/p.3
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 01/Sep/12 with Andy

Been wanting to do this for ages, wish i hadn't put it off for so long. A really good route with the first being dangerous but straight forward climbing, second tough but good fiddly gear and the third run out. Lead P1 + 3.
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Owain

Hidden - 2010

First lead this in 1995. Avoided crux this time as was wet.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd - 09/Sep/09 with Jon Garside

Al Evans - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Led 1st and 3rd. A serious adventure. Route finding being the crux.Got off at sunset, 6 hours after abbing in!
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Craig Smith

Ian McNeill - 2006

Mark Reeves - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/03

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

sadams - AltLd - 05/Aug/00 with Tom Briggs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/98

switch - AltLd O/S - 1997

v commiting in the rain
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 27/Sep/96 with Muir Morton

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Sep/96

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

led 1st and 3rd pitches
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/94 with andy boorman

Bob - 1990

frank ramsay - Lead - 04/Sep/87 with Pete Cummings

one of the best experiences at Gogarth
andy gittins - AltLd - 1985

Hidden - 1984

L, then Ian tried the next pitch and got very scared so we abbed off. At least the tide was out.
charlesmfrench - AltLd dnf - 08/Nov/81 with Ian Milne

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Sep/77

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Avon Man, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 26
hard E50 of 10
E50 of 10
easy E50 of 10
hard E42 of 10
E46 of 10
easy E42 of 10
hard E30 of 10
E30 of 10
easy E30 of 10
hard 6a0 of 9
6a0 of 9
easy 6a0 of 9
hard 5c8 of 9
5c1 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 9
5b0 of 9
easy 5b0 of 9
3 Stars6 of 7
2 Stars1 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S