Anarchist* E1 5b
[How old is this peg? Anarchist, Gogarth Red Wall, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Slight, but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil, where the promontory abuts the crag at a large blunt spike.
1) 5b, 37m. Make a frightening traverse left off the spike to a groove that leads up to a tiny ledge. Climb the left arete of the groove above to another ledge. Shuffle left and head up and left to a detached flake passing a peg. The top of the flake is gained by a semi-mantle move, the peg just above the flake is obvious from the promontory. Climb a line of weakness up and right to a small overlap and step right into a niche below a steep crack. Follow the crack above to a good ledge. Belay further back on a grassy ramp.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the grassy ramp to the shoulder and a junction with Deygo. Move up a slab rightwards to gain a groove and finish up this. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, The Road to Shibboleth.

Photo: How old is this peg? Anarchist, Gogarth Red Wall © Misha
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Good warm up on a warm day.
Dave Almond - AltLd - 07/Sep/14 with Nicole Almond

Hot day, good warm up, good climbing. Covered in spiders!
Nicole Almond - AltLd - 06/Sep/14 with Dad

Awesome jug fest and very good rock.
Alex Mason - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/14 with James Mchaffie

Hidden - 2014

one pitch
Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 13/Oct/13 with James Machaffie

Lenny - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Steve

Henrys first taste of Red Wall.
Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/13 with Henry Haworth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13

duncandarnell - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/13

Good and surprisingly steep low down. Falling off before the second peg would be inadvisable but even the worst sections of rock are as good as the best bit on Red Walls.
Tubs - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Tim C

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/13

Gezzer - 2nd - 23/Aug/13 with Steve Burns

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/13

Led the main pitch. Steady, although I nearly conspired to fall off above the good peg anyway due to extreme uselessness. The gear's a bit ropey in the lower half, but the climbing's lovely and the situation is very cool.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12

a really good route, though the diagram indicates you should start lower its really loose down there and best just to traverse from the top of the promentory
mike lawrence? - Lead - 03/Sep/12 with Colin

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Chris Gooder

Hidden - 13/Jan/12

Captain Gear - 2012

Very nice, steady
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11 with Anita Grey

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/11

mynyddresident - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Al

nice steady climbing, no real crux just a slighty harder bit. great route
al123 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/11 with nic

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 30/Aug/11 with Doddy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/11

nice route, felt quite low end E1, good juggy climbing. i lead the first pitch and kit did the second.
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/11 with Kit Perry

stevoland - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

in one pitch, not recommended!
david morse - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Duncan

Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 08/Oct/10 with Dave Morse

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/10

Nice opener at Red Walls, 6 parties on Right Hand crag!
philhilo - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with misha

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

First route on Red Wall - as the guide book suggests, pretty solid and amenable, though the crux is right at the very start on the initial traverse in and isn't that well protected. Led P2, which would be quite nice if it wasn't covered in lichen.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/10

Great first pitch, horrible top-out.
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Andy N

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 2010 with dave g

farmus21 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Tom Ripley

khawk - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with DT

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

Carly - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Richard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09

Nicos - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with rich howels

Dave Rumney - Lead - 09/Aug/09 with Pete Johnston

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 13/Sep/08 with Dave Almomd

Escaped up this after it started raining when we abbed in to do Red Wall. Led easy top pitch.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/08 with Andy Hobson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Made more exciting by someone taking a big fall off the finishing moves of Deygo and pulling a block off which missed my very worried dad by a few feet
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 25/Aug/07 with Dad

Will1 - Jun/07

mux - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06

Mark Reeves - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - TR - 30/Aug/04

Good lead by Si
Scotsken - 2nd - 2003 with Si Ball

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Oct/00

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Aug/00

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/97

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/97

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/96 with jon

Quite good rock
phardman - AltLd - 28/Oct/95 with Guy Maddox

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/95

Hidden - 2nd - 1994

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/93

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/92

Hidden - Lead - 1989

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/88

andy gittins - 1985

mikej - Lead - 14/Sep/82 with Mike Byles

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
oliverk, Katex, Paul McCallum, petellis, Ropeboy

Total votes cast 84
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E22 of 28
hard E10 of 28
E123 of 28
easy E13 of 28
hard HVS0 of 28
HVS0 of 28
easy HVS0 of 28
hard 5c0 of 28
5c0 of 28
easy 5c0 of 28
hard 5b0 of 28
5b23 of 28
easy 5b5 of 28
hard 5a0 of 28
5a0 of 28
easy 5a0 of 28
3 Stars0 of 28
2 Stars21 of 28
1 Star7 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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