Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Start just right of the large tree. Head up right to a ledge and then a flake crack on the left to an overhang. Pass the overhang and move up the wall (poor rock) right of the trees to where the face rears up. Make some thin and committing moves up a groove to a ledge and thread. Continue up past concretions and a thread to the top and tree belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Nice route. Should not be climbed within a few days of rain as water pours down the route during this time.
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff Nose , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| teebee1805 | 2 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Needs more traffic but good after first third. Replaced two threads near the top. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Needs more traffic but good after first third. Replaced two threads near the top. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Organ Grinder
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)