The Angel's Girdle*** VS 5a
[Approaching stance 2 of Angel's Girdle, 3 kb]110m, 4 pitches. Absorbing and Rewarding climb. 4b,4b,5a,4c. Start up P1 of Left Hand Route. From the belay drop down slightly and traverse all of the way across the North Wall in 2 pitches. From the thread on the Angel's Eye, climb down 20ft then around the arete, finish up Joe's Route.
J Willson, S Smith, N Smith 15/Mar/1975

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Orange Spot Lower Wye.

Photo: Approaching stance 2 of Angel's Girdle © PaulWatson
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 102 logbooks, and on 35 wishlists.

P3 (SC) Moved off on to Angels Eye at end of pitch
localboy - 2nd rpt - 08/Jul/14 with Simon C

P2,p4. Great climb. Surely this is 4b,4b,4c,5a as per the guidebook? 5a crux was tricky. Loads of pegs.
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/14 with Iggy

Pitches 1 and 3. Good fun but loses a star for all the down climbing. Crux was tough and required a bit of thinking about.
squicky - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/14 with Ben

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Andy Lovelady

Led pitches 1&3
danieleaston - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Saz

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14

felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

Lead P2 & P4, didn't feel that hard for the grade, but was a fantastic outing.
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Andrew Twemlow

P1 & P3
twem - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Alastair

Kyle87 - AltLd O/S - Feb/14

Pitches 1-3. Got stalled by 2 Slovenians finishing The Angel's Eye (belaying on the in-situ nut), and decided to finish up the last pitch of the Angel's Eye, since it was getting dark.
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 11/Jan/14 with Richard Snow

Shat myself on P4 when all the gear came out before the down-climb as well as most of it around the corner. Think there is a dodgy peg after the down-climb and just by the first small gap.
druss - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/13 with Peter Ocampo

poeter210 - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/13 with adrian voss

bonoid - AltLd - 19/Nov/13 with Kyle87

finished pitch 1 and 2
colinthomson5 - AltLd dnf - 24/Sep/13 with James Cullen

Lead 1st & 3rd pitches. Superb
saraguti - 15/Sep/13 with rick sewards

Great route, lack of a decent diagram in the old guidebook didn't help. Bit of route finding beta from an experienced local compenasated. Lead P1, P3, P5 (split P4 into 2 to avoid rope drag and aid communication). By the time Roger had taken a rather higher and much harder variant line on P2, the 5a pitch seemed easy. Actually, it WAS easy, only 4b? No idea where 5a comes from. P4 seemed harder (again, partly as Roger took a higher harder line), but even the on-route bit seemed like 5a.
eduardo - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Roger F

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13

Led P2 & 4, RIch led P1 & 3; a great route with consistently good climbing.
Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Rich Goodbody

timharrison - AltLd dnf - 11/Aug/13 with Matt Carwardine

Led P2 and P4; Simon led P1 and P3.
simonf - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Simon

Only managed first two pitches before being rained off. Scrambled to the great ledge to ab off.
monsteratt - AltLd dnf - 15/Jun/13 with Nick Whimster

bailed due to rain after 2 pitches
nickwhimster - AltLd dnf - 15/Jun/13 with monsteratt

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

I led p 1 and 3 - awesome and adventurous climb especially pitch 4!
suffolknick - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/12 with clams

Awesome climb. Lead p1 and p3. Took a large whipper on pitch 4 due to wetness and I snapped a hold off :S worth it though. Brilliant climb
McKEuan - AltLd - 09/Oct/12 with Tom Adams

Led P2 and P4. What a great expedition! Lived up to my expectations. P4 had quite an interesting crux, huge rope drag by the end of the pitch.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Robert

Absorbing. A summer spent on the the new quarry traverse at Avon meant none of the moves felt too hard but the situation and rope work were not trivial. Full marks to James for leading pitches 2 & 4!
Bobling - AltLd - 22/Sep/12 with James P

Last pitch only after abanoning the last pitch of The Ring
Slick - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Will Wykes

I lead P2 and P4. Massive rope drag on P4. 5a section was hard.
AndrewP - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Tim Popplestone

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/Sep/12

Led pitches 2 and 4. Found the last pitch tricky, easily felt 5a. The crux move is hard to protect for the second too, and what I did put it lifted out later.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with simon

SP 1,3 OG 2,4
SiyP - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12 with oli gray

cornishben - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Gareth Pratt

DorsetGareth - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Ben Sutton

Me 1, 3 Phil 2, 4. * Phweew * You know you have been on a climb after this - one of those its all there somewhere climbs, and some superb positions. p3 Different but not that hard - low 4c rather than 5a, p4 seemed more like 5a.
PaulWatson - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Phil

demarcation86 - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/12

led P2 and 4. quality route and a total must for anyone wanting an adventure. questionable whether there was a 5a move but some of the commitment required makes it feel harder.
stvredmond - AltLd - 05/Mar/12 with Sean mercer

Kyuzo - Jan/12

Neil Stansbie - AltLd - 2012

alan moore - 2012

saintlade - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11

Just 4c traverse pitch (for pictures) was good but dunno about the rest!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11 with helen

Awesome climb, never felt particularly difficult but very intimidating, especially pitches 3 & 4. Down climbing was scary but a great experience.
dawesbub - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Big Lee

What an awesome route. Big exposure with plenty of quality climbing. Only downside was that we hit a lot of traffic coming up Angle's Eye which delayed things.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Stephen Dawes

Josh lead pitch 1 and 3, I led pitch 2 and 4. Rain and lack of backroping know-how sent us up last pitch of Angel's Eye instead of 4th pitch.
gb05 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Josh Cooper

Mackinclimb - AltLd - 17/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11

jcooper8 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Shaun, Guy Reid

RD P1 and P3
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Patrick

I lead 1, Simon lead 2 and 3. Light stopped play and so we went up 3rd pitch of angels eye and 4th pitch of right hand route.
localboy - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Simon F

Led first pitch. Rich led second and Tim led the last two. Nearly benighted!
iforwms - AltLd O/S - 26/May/11 with Rich Harris, Tim

thomb - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with David Coley, Darren

A nice adventure on quite damp rock, with Gary and Rich following us along it. Always good fun. For once we couldn't be bothered to do anything afterwards, after spending a bit of time freeing a stuck abseil rope.
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10 with James Miller

bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 18/Oct/10 with James Lane

The second pitch felt serious even though the climbing was easy. Not worth 3 stars. We escaped up RH route
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Nick

Led pitches 1 and 3
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Emmanuel

trevor macalonan - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Tim

timharrison - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/10 with Trevor Macalonan

In the heat I thought the 1st pitch of LH Route was as hard as anything later! The guidebook makes the route sound more complicated than it actually is. The last pitch is superb, intimidating and with lots of good climbing.
Rob Exile Ward - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Sam Ward

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Mar/10

Lead first and second pitch,second 3rd and 4th. 4th pitch has a scary 6m down climb for second if the lead climber hasnt put any gear in untill the bottom.
tobyb - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/10

followed tym, good lead, his hardest to date!!
Phil PBC - 2nd - 2010

Phil PBC - 2010

Fred_Richard - Lead - 2010

jimmatthews - Lead - 2010

j miller - 2010

Brian led P1 & 3, I led P2 & 4
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 12/Dec/09 with Brian

bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 12/Dec/09 with Chris Sansum

timharrison - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Suse

SuseH - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Tim Hammell

Started up Central Route as LH Route occupied. Traverse of P2 was straight forward enough. However, second slipped just after leavign belay, and took a long slow fall as the slack in the system was used up. Cuts, grazes and a bashed ankle, but otherwise okay. She was lowered to the ground, and I retrieved the gear on a top rope rope from above. Shame not to complete, but there's always next time.
Karlos - Lead dnf - 10/May/09 with Daniela

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Lucy Rouse

simonw1 - AltLd - 30/Aug/08 with Heather Lewis

Circus - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/07 with Dan

evhall - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/07 with colin

Had led most of the pitches on a previous occasion. This is a real classic, following an unlikely line across a sheer face. It feels like an adventure, with upclimbing, downclimbing, traversing, unusual rope techniques etc. A great climb for photos. The pitch which was supposedly 5a was easy! The following pitch was harder.
Chris Sansum - Lead β - 19/May/07 with Weilin Wang, Sam Read

pandalover - 2nd O/S - May/07 with Chris

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 22/Apr/07 with Dick Hanson

Stone Muppet - 2007

Simon Palmer - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with RMC

Bern - 2006

mike kann - 2006

markfromstoke - 2006

We removed a fairly sizeable block from the final pitch.
drysori - AltLd O/S - Mar/05 with Malcolm

Spacetourist - 2nd β - 2005 with Ed Heslam

Finished up LH Route.
bpmclimb - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/04 with Clare & Sandy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/04

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 11/May/02 with William Harding

Lead pitches 2, 4.
Laramadness - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/00 with JC

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - Jun/97

jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/94 with MB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/92

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/89

mikej - AltLd - 31/May/89 with Robert Smith

First 2 pitches
Richard Weller - Lead dnf - 10/Dec/83 with james eldridge

** only
leland stamper - Lead - 30/Aug/83 with richard baynes

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Voting
Total votes cast 76
hard HVS0 of 25
HVS0 of 25
easy HVS1 of 25
hard VS19 of 25
VS5 of 25
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HS0 of 25
easy HS0 of 25
hard 5b0 of 25
5b0 of 25
easy 5b0 of 25
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5a18 of 25
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3 Stars23 of 26
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