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Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

12m. In the Pitface. The corner at the right side of the undercut slab, passing an overlap at five metres. Straightforward with enough gear but may need to be raked out in places, traverse right at the top for 3m below loose overhangs (small wires) and around slight corner to finish straight up by grasping small bonsai tree bush thing, possibly HVS if clean.

Good honest climbing up an attractive corner, possibly a little dusty but well protected. Style around the lower roof to a rest, then steady sustained bridging leads to a useful lower-off.

Ian Lonsdale 1974.

Ticklists

Wilton One: Hidden Gems

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 9
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Titanic

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Middle Edge Rocks)

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