Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Brilliant climbing. Slow thoughtful and careful movement. Over thirty runners. Slings on bolt studs etc.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/15 with KM
Sustained and difficult climbing with loose rock and not great gear. Tim went all the way up the left groove which felt 6a at the top.
Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Tim Newton
I followed the pegs all the way up the left hand groove until the big roof 3/4 of the way up where I traversed right underneath it, instead of traversing into the right hand groove lower down as you're meant to. It just seemed so obvious to follow all the old fixed gear. The 'safer start' is not safe, there's no peg, it's run out and the holds are suspect. Very sustained, felt like 5b or 5c almost every other move. Some good pro, lots of in situ gear. I took a bigger rack than I've ever took for a climb before, 20 quickdraws, and still ran out, could have done with a few more. A big E4 lead.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with rachel slater
Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/14
Agree with e4.long sustained and tricky route finding.beta alert
Best start is 4m left twin spikes and climb quartzite groove to overlap then traverse R use long slings to avoid drag. The traverse R at half hight moves under the first overhang you reach.you can clip high fixed gear on L and reverse to overhang.
Bring loads long extenders big rack nd have a bunch wires set to loop over the hanger less bolts
donie - 28/Sep/13
Dave Turnbull, BMC - 2nd - 29/Sep/12 with Dan Donovan
Quite a head stress on this. Pretty loose to begin, then gradually got used to this sort of rock. Tricky 5c crux with a shit peg for protection on crux. Also went up the groove direct with all the old pegs and stumps for too long, then had to reverse. Took 16 extenders and ran out 3 runnners from the top. Handful of bigish cams would be useful (2.5-3.5).
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Mikey G
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 19/Oct/09
Ian McNeill - 2006
Ian McNeill - 2006
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/02
Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/98