Rockfax Description
A tough proposition even with the easier and safer start. The extremely bold original start is up the line of weakness 3m right and has the terrifying grade of E5 5c. An exciting 50m diagonal abseil gains a belay; a reasonable spike on a ledge below the main line of weakness. Start by moving up the wall from a sloping ledge by a couple of suspect spikes, there may or may not be a peg, which is passed on the left. Move up and right into a sandy area below an overlap and then traverse right into the main groove system. Head up the groove passing much decaying ironmongery left by the first ascent - filmed and broadcast live by the BBC in 1966. At about 25m the grooves split, take the right-hand groove past a couple of overlaps. Step out right to a small ledge and then climb the wall to enter an upper vertical groove, finish up this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Steve Crowe 01/Sep Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing. Slow thoughtful and careful movement. Over thirty runners. Slings on bolt studs etc.

with KM
Rachel Slater 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Sustained and difficult climbing with loose rock and not great gear. Tim went all the way up the left groove which felt 6a at the top.

tim newton 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

I followed the pegs all the way up the left hand groove until the big roof 3/4 of the way up where I traversed right underneath it, instead of traversing into the right hand groove lower down as you're meant to. It just seemed so obvious to follow all the old fixed gear. The 'safer start' is not safe, there's no peg, it's run out and the holds are suspect. Very sustained, felt like 5b or 5c almost every other move. Some good pro, lots of in situ gear. I took a bigger rack than I've ever took for a climb before, 20 quickdraws, and still ran out, could have done with a few more. A big E4 lead.

Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd
donie 28/Sep/13 -

Agree with e4.long sustained and tricky route finding.beta alert Best start is 4m left twin spikes and climb quartzite groove to overlap then traverse R use long slings to avoid drag. The traverse R at half hight moves under the first overhang you can clip high fixed gear on L and reverse to overhang. Bring loads long extenders big rack nd have a bunch wires set to loop over the hanger less bolts

Dave Turnbull, BMC 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Dan Donovan
Alex Mason 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Quite a head stress on this. Pretty loose to begin, then gradually got used to this sort of rock. Tricky 5c crux with a shit peg for protection on crux. Also went up the groove direct with all the old pegs and stumps for too long, then had to reverse. Took 16 extenders and ran out 3 runnners from the top. Handful of bigish cams would be useful (2.5-3.5).

with Mikey G
Hidden 19/Oct/09 2nd dnf
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/98 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 6
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set