Television Route*** E4 5c

Rockfax Description
A tough proposition even with the easier and safer start. The extremely bold original start is up the line of weakness 3m right and has the terrifying grade of E5 5c. An exciting 50m diagonal abseil gains a belay; a reasonable spike on a ledge below the main line of weakness. Start by moving up the wall from a sloping ledge by a couple of suspect spikes, there may or may not be a peg, which is passed on the left. Move up and right into a sandy area below an overlap and then traverse right into the main groove system. Head up the groove passing much decaying ironmongery left by the first ascent - filmed and broadcast live by the BBC in 1966. At about 25m the grooves split, take the right-hand groove past a couple of overlaps. Step out right to a small ledge and then climb the wall to enter an upper vertical groove, finish up this to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

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This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Brilliant climbing. Slow thoughtful and careful movement. Over thirty runners. Slings on bolt studs etc.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/15 with KM

Sustained and difficult climbing with loose rock and not great gear. Tim went all the way up the left groove which felt 6a at the top.
Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Tim Newton

I followed the pegs all the way up the left hand groove until the big roof 3/4 of the way up where I traversed right underneath it, instead of traversing into the right hand groove lower down as you're meant to. It just seemed so obvious to follow all the old fixed gear. The 'safer start' is not safe, there's no peg, it's run out and the holds are suspect. Very sustained, felt like 5b or 5c almost every other move. Some good pro, lots of in situ gear. I took a bigger rack than I've ever took for a climb before, 20 quickdraws, and still ran out, could have done with a few more. A big E4 lead.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with rachel slater

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/14

Agree with e4.long sustained and tricky route finding.beta alert Best start is 4m left twin spikes and climb quartzite groove to overlap then traverse R use long slings to avoid drag. The traverse R at half hight moves under the first overhang you can clip high fixed gear on L and reverse to overhang. Bring loads long extenders big rack nd have a bunch wires set to loop over the hanger less bolts
donie - 28/Sep/13

Dave Turnbull, BMC - 2nd - 29/Sep/12 with Dan Donovan

Quite a head stress on this. Pretty loose to begin, then gradually got used to this sort of rock. Tricky 5c crux with a shit peg for protection on crux. Also went up the groove direct with all the old pegs and stumps for too long, then had to reverse. Took 16 extenders and ran out 3 runnners from the top. Handful of bigish cams would be useful (2.5-3.5).
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Mikey G

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 19/Oct/09

Ian McNeill - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/02

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/98

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Total votes cast 17
hard E50 of 6
E50 of 6
easy E50 of 6
hard E42 of 6
E44 of 6
easy E40 of 6
hard E30 of 6
E30 of 6
easy E30 of 6
hard 6a0 of 6
6a0 of 6
easy 6a3 of 6
hard 5c3 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
hard 5b0 of 6
5b0 of 6
easy 5b0 of 6
3 Stars2 of 5
2 Stars3 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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