Rockfax Description
A demanding route, especially on pitch 2 which has a sustained urgency about it. Start from the end of the second abseil, on the lowest ledge, in the corner on the right.
1) 5b, 37m. Climb slabby rock to left-trending cracks. Follow these, then bear right and up to ledges and a huge block belay.
2) 5c, 37m. Climb past a thread and move up and rightwards to cracks below the roof. Make a perplexing and committing move out right to gain a block level with the base of the groove. Move back left to the main corner/groove and follow this with interest to a ledge on the left. Go back up and right onto the larger ledge, and belay, as for Wendigo or continue up the third pitch.
3) 4c, 12m. Move left into the continuation groove, which leads to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)