Rockfax Description
The first pitch is long and sustained and the top pitch features a mind-blowing step up to a hanging flake. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay, as for Red Wall.
1) 5c, 50m. Move left to the shallow right-facing corner and climb this to a ledge on the left at about 6m. Move up slightly and traverse left to the base of a V-groove. Climb this to a small perch at its top. Make a move left and then climb the sustained wall to a large flake and peg. Head up past a couple of thinner ledges to where a line leads leftwards into Wendigo. From the large pockets on Wendigo, head up and belay on the first sloping ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. From the belay head out right on large wafer-thin jugs, that appear similar in strength to porcelain, until you are just below and left of a large downwards pointing flake/spike. Make a committing move to gain the undercut, and scuttle quickly rightwards to a sandy ledge. Follow the diagonal crack up right to a perch on the arete before moving up to a sloping ledge on the left. Make a tricky move up left to a hanging groove and follow it to a ledge. Head to the top on very poor rock. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
***TAKE CARE with the flake on pitch 1 mentioned in the route description, there has been recent reports that it is loose/moves.

Ticklists: Gogarth Extreme Gems, North Wales Rock Graded List.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 29/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Louishmouis 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Dad
Adam Ellwood 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Porky
Steve Crowe 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Steady climbing but bold in places. Take care near the top.

with KM
Hidden 19/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 19/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Rich Kirby 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Nick led the amazing first pitch taking a great diagonal line across RW. I got the totally absorbing top pitch. Pleased to see a new peg after an age trying to get gear after the cheesy groove.

Steve Long ??/2014 -
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Misha 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

A very good route, the only complaint is that you don't get much of a warm up as P1 is fairly relentless almost from the start! Neil led P1, I found it pumpy on second and thought it was the physical crux. Whereas Neil thought P2 was pumpier but I found it reasonable, go figure! Really good sustained climbing on P1 with generally decent gear. Neil followed a logical line to join Wendigo quite a bit higher up than the Ground Up photo topo suggests. The start of P2 up to and round the flake looked scary with questionable gear but wasn't too hard. Good sustained climbing up the groove above. Finished more or less direct and didn't find it loose. 3 stars!

Hidden 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Gezzer 22/Aug/13 2nd

Sustained main pitch, great lead by Steve.

Hidden 22/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Owain Llewelyn 08/Aug/12 AltLd

Brilliant route. Alex's comments are pretty much spot on. Steady E3 5c .

with Gareth E
Luke Brooks 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with John Orr
Alex Mason 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. First pitch great with some intricate, run outs and an exposed step. Second pitch was great fun. Once I got a No.1 wire wire in by the hanging fang I was feeling confident and really enjoyed 'the lottery' with some of the holds. Top section not that loose, and belay is solid with a big wire and a cam 2 and cam 3.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Mega cool route, I lead P1 but both are good pitches. First trad climb in 4 months and couldnt have been a better experience, super exposed, good clean wall climbing, top stuff!

Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/96 AltLd
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