Fantasia*** E3 5c
[2nd pitch, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Excellent wall climbing, on solid rock once out of Red Wall. The route has reasonably good protection and is sustained at an interesting but never desperate level. Start as for Red Wall.
1) 4c, 34m. As for Red Wall, P1.
2) 5c, 50m. Follow Red Wall for about 10m to a move right that leads to a sandy cave. From a peg at its right-hand side, move around onto a red wall. Go straight up, then move a little to the left, passing the remains of a peg, before gaining a small hanging groove. From the top of this, bold and technical moves left lead to larger holds and a looser finish. An exit up the chimney to the right is another option. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: 2nd pitch © steveboote
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 34 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/15

Awesome route! Felt pretty hard and sustained, with techy and pressing climbing between decent rests. Found the moves up the face, once I'd pulled out of the sandy cave, the hardest but that might have been a reach issue. Gear was pretty good, if spaced at times, and most of the rock was solid.
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/15 with Andy

Hidden - 2015

Lead P2, hard for E3.
papashango - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/14 with PJ

Lead P1 and then P2 on mostly Rach's gear
tim newton - Lead β - 06/Sep/14 with rachel slater

I took an age leading the second pitch until I got about 3/4s of the way up and just felt so psyched out I came back down and Tim lead it. Not having a great few days!
Rachel Slater - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Tim Newton

Total quality. A great day on RW.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Nick Bullock

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Nov/11

Did this with Dad on his birthday, he cruised it in a very relaxed fashion but he won't let me lead anything on Red Wall:( anyway well done dad!
Joughton - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11

I've done this route several times. Awesome. The final few metres are a quite worrying though, suggest you step right to join the chimney unless you want to savour the position longer.
Steve Long - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Pete Johnson

I lead the first pitch of Rapture of the deep by mistake to the obvious old bolt belay. Good solid second pitch, take a lot of runners. 3 star.
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Owain

Not sure if I was just having one of those days but the main pitch felt pretty tough to me. Brilliant sustained climbing.
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 01/Aug/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

Steep with solid 5c moves, but never out of sight of good holds. 'Technical bold crux' sequence seemed straight forward and well protected, top section (going straight up) seemed more sustained until....I departed with a large undercut still clutched in my hand! The joys of climbing on cheese.
philhilo - 2nd - 26/Sep/10 with misha

Fantastic! The sandy cave was a bizarre feature. Was glad that the rock was solid out on the face as the climbing was pretty sustained at 5b/c and a bit runout, in fact mostly climbing above gear. Finished up some fairly steep cheese, thankfully on large holds - worryingly, Phil managed to pull one of them off on second (presented to Su as a present and due to be turned into a club award!). Took 1hr 25mins to lead it, Phil took about 25mins to second, back at the car at 8pm and back home at 1am - another great sea cliff weekend.
Misha - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Phil

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Rick Graham

IOAN D - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/07 with Mills

Brown - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Max

Mark Reeves - 2006

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

caveman_chris - Lead - May/99

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/96

this was my second attempt,lowered off the peg on the previous attempt
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 03/Aug/96 with steve ward

Karin led the crux pitch.
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/95 with KM

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/95

got to peg
michael burrows - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/95 with steve ward

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/91 with Chris Gooder

andy gittins - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Martin Haworth, web10steelj, Ropeboy, Ched, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 35
hard E40 of 12
E40 of 12
easy E41 of 12
hard E310 of 12
E31 of 12
easy E30 of 12
hard E20 of 12
E20 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard 6a0 of 12
6a0 of 12
easy 6a1 of 12
hard 5c6 of 12
5c5 of 12
easy 5c0 of 12
hard 5b0 of 12
5b0 of 12
easy 5b0 of 12
3 Stars11 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat