Fantasia*** E3 5c
[Owain leading Pitch 2 of Fantasia, 4 kb]

Rockfax Description
Excellent wall climbing, on solid rock once out of Red Wall. The route has reasonably good protection and is sustained at an interesting but never desperate level. Start as for Red Wall.
1) 4c, 34m. As for Red Wall, P1.
2) 5c, 50m. Follow Red Wall for about 10m to a move right that leads to a sandy cave. From a peg at its right-hand side, move around onto a red wall. Go straight up, then move a little to the left, passing the remains of a peg, before gaining a small hanging groove. From the top of this, bold and technical moves left lead to larger holds and a looser finish. An exit up the chimney to the right is another option. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Owain leading Pitch 2 of Fantasia © zukator
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - 2015

Lead P2, hard for E3.
papashango - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/14 with PJ

Lead P1 and then P2 on mostly Rach's gear
tim newton - Lead β - 06/Sep/14 with rachel slater

I took an age leading the second pitch until I got about 3/4s of the way up and just felt so psyched out I came back down and Tim lead it. Not having a great few days!
Rachel Slater - 2nd - 06/Sep/14 with Tim Newton

Total quality. A great day on RW.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Nick Bullock

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Nov/11

Did this with Dad on his birthday, he cruised it in a very relaxed fashion but he won't let me lead anything on Red Wall:( anyway well done dad!
Joughton - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11

I've done this route several times. Awesome. The final few metres are a quite worrying though, suggest you step right to join the chimney unless you want to savour the position longer.
Steve Long - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Pete Johnson

I lead the first pitch of Rapture of the deep by mistake to the obvious old bolt belay. Good solid second pitch, take a lot of runners. 3 star.
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Owain

Not sure if I was just having one of those days but the main pitch felt pretty tough to me. Brilliant sustained climbing.
Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 01/Aug/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10

Steep with solid 5c moves, but never out of sight of good holds. 'Technical bold crux' sequence seemed straight forward and well protected, top section (going straight up) seemed more sustained until....I departed with a large undercut still clutched in my hand! The joys of climbing on cheese.
philhilo - 2nd - 26/Sep/10 with misha

Fantastic! The sandy cave was a bizarre feature. Was glad that the rock was solid out on the face as the climbing was pretty sustained at 5b/c and a bit runout, in fact mostly climbing above gear. Finished up some fairly steep cheese, thankfully on large holds - worryingly, Phil managed to pull one of them off on second (presented to Su as a present and due to be turned into a club award!). Took 1hr 25mins to lead it, Phil took about 25mins to second, back at the car at 8pm and back home at 1am - another great sea cliff weekend.
Misha - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Phil

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Rick Graham

IOAN D - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/07 with Mills

Brown - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Max

Mark Reeves - 2006

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

Karin led the crux pitch.
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/97 with KM

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/96

this was my second attempt,lowered off the peg on the previous attempt
michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 03/Aug/96 with steve ward

Hidden - Lead - 15/Oct/95

got to peg
michael burrows - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/95 with steve ward

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/91 with Chris Gooder

andy gittins - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Martin Haworth, climbingpixie, web10steelj, Ropeboy, Ched, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 29
hard E40 of 10
E40 of 10
easy E41 of 10
hard E38 of 10
E31 of 10
easy E30 of 10
hard E20 of 10
E20 of 10
easy E20 of 10
hard 6a0 of 10
6a0 of 10
easy 6a1 of 10
hard 5c4 of 10
5c5 of 10
easy 5c0 of 10
hard 5b0 of 10
5b0 of 10
easy 5b0 of 10
3 Stars9 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat