Great Slab*** VS 4c
[Gordon on Great Slab, Cloggy, in the rain, May 1969, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Another of the great Cloggy mountaineering routes, with only one technically demanding section up an often-damp corner. Other than that most of the climbing is straightforward. Start as for Great-Bow Combination.
1) 4c, 45m. As for Great-Bow Combination.
2) 4a, 12m. Follow Great-Bow Combination for 12m metres to the first easing on the rib with a prominent diagonal break just above. Step right onto the slab, passing a flake/spike. Carry on traversing right to the corner and climb the grassy gully to a belay below a groove.
3) 4c, 45m. Climb the groove past an often-wet section, crux, and continue up to gain the corner/groove on the left. Follow this to the first grassy moustache and then take a diagonal line leftwards across slabby rock to a belay in the middle of the Great Slab.
4) 4c, 45m. Carry on in the same vein, moving diagonally left to hit the arete and savour the exposure. There are several possible belays here, the best one is higher up.
5) 15m. Climb the easy but sensational arete to the top and scramble out. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Gordon on Great Slab, Cloggy, in the rain, May 1969 © John Stainforth
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Led pitch 1, partner fell when off-route leading pitch 2, pulled gear and landed on belay cms from me. Cracked vertebrae, had to ab off and get to hospital. All ok.
Colin13 - AltLd dnf - May/01

fantastic full days adventure
stanman - AltLd - 1990 with john proud/pete dobson

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