13m. Start beneath the obvious hanging chimney at a wobbly triangular block in a crack. Climb up this to a dubious looking broken ledge above your belayer (er... presumably solid enough?!) from which twin cracks lead up into the chimney. From the chimney head out and up onto a lovely final slab. Glorious hex placements aplenty!

maryleese 16/Sep Solo
MFB 15/Sep Lead
with MB
machars 09/Sep 2nd
with James K
Hidden 06/Sep Lead rpt
Elsier 05/Sep Lead rpt
with Jo
Doby 05/Sep 2nd
with Elsie
Hidden 04/Sep 2nd rpt
Little B 23/Aug 2nd O/S
with Simon
Simonfarfaraway 23/Aug Lead
Fiona Reid 16/Aug 2nd
with Mike
Mike-W-99 16/Aug Lead rpt

Nice to lead this many years after our first visit.

with Fiona
sparbus 26/Jun 2nd
with mike b
tobydunford 25/May Solo O/S
dbell67 16/May Lead
with Rob Hunter
Elsier 16/May Lead rpt
with Adrian
tmawer 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Mike Norbry
Hidden 21/Mar -
graham.more 21/Mar Lead O/S
euan_callus 21/Mar 2nd
maxtwomey ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 15/Nov/14 2nd O/S
keith hal 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant! first VS 4c on sight lead...chuffed!!

with martin
martinh13 29/Sep/14 2nd
with Keith
mot1 24/Aug/14 Lead β
with Peter
Hidden 09/Aug/14 -
lithos 21/Jul/14 Lead

lovely route, tons of gear

with karl c, Pete Bradshaw
xoran ?/Jul/14 Lead
ClimbingGlen 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lovely bit of back and footing.

mark-abz 22/Jun/14 2nd
with Paul N
machars 11/Jun/14 2nd
with Linda, John
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/14 2nd
Nille 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jonathan
Gatley 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
wookie667 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with hay
dctarrant2000 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Polly Tarrant
Stephen Shaw 16/May/13 2nd
with Ian
Ian Hinkins 16/May/13 Lead
with Steve Shaw
machars 07/May/13 Lead
with John, James
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead
Matthew Glenn 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 04/Apr/13 Lead
el diablo 03/Mar/13 Lead
with Cabey
IanMcC 03/Mar/13 2nd

Now includes in-situ nut.:-(

Hidden 04/Nov/12 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
machars 04/Sep/12 Lead
with Linda
ali macphee 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
ali macphee 28/Aug/12 Lead
JRSB1991 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
French Erick 25/Jul/12 Solo
oliverk 24/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Malcolm, Sarah Moorhouse
Hidden 24/Jun/12 2nd dog
machars 20/Jun/12 2nd
with Dave McNicol
Bob Windsor 03/Jun/12 AltLd
with Rick Graham
MAGWITCH 28/May/12 2nd O/S
with James Lowry
jlowry92 28/May/12 Lead O/S
MAGWITCH 22/May/12 TR dog

Last climb of a full and hot day, fell twice on first slab but still one of my all time favorite climbs.

with Alistair
Laura Hamlet 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamlet, Tim Hamlet
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
MAGWITCH 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/12 -
with Rebecca
oliverk 20/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
daWalt 20/Aug/11 -

Left a screwgate and nut at the base of this climb- if you find them please get in touch

dbell67 09/Aug/11 Lead
with Carolyn Dorset
Saintly 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Em, stimpey
stimpey 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Emma, Saintly
Steve Lenartowicz 02/Jul/11 -
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
daWalt 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with awaddie
machars 10/Jun/11 2nd
jonka ?/Jun/11 -
with gareth
MartinJWood 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Chad123 29/May/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent climb, satisfying back and footing but very easy for grade

sophiecb 29/May/11 Lead O/S

Sweet wee chimney climb. Holds where you want them. Executed with some body thrutching, my style of climbing :)

with Chad
jac.c123 20/May/11 2nd
with Alister, andyc123
Hidden 18/May/11 Lead
rabnud 02/May/11 Lead rpt
ropeburn 02/May/11 2nd O/S
with gordon dunbar
UncleMephisto ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Seumas MacKenzie
Michael Brown 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, nice rest with a full foot-back jam in the large flared crack beneath the overhang, and a nice surprise as you pull over the overhang to find there's still another 10ft of slab to go. Great fun ;)

Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
decs 25/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Bart
dbell67 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Stewart Lessels
stew85 24/Apr/11 Lead
Tom Phillips 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with dick
jimted 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with finn
dbell67 10/Apr/11 Lead
Two Cams Tom 10/Apr/11 2nd
with dbell67
woah269 28/Mar/11 2nd
woah269 28/Mar/11 2nd
MAGWITCH 28/Mar/11 2nd O/S

First ever second

with Dave Wands
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
owain-1978 17/Feb/11 2nd
with davina
petegunn 17/Feb/11 Lead
with Davina, Owain, Matt Reeve
jac.c123 12/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Jan/11 Lead rpt
matt bimson ??/2011 2nd O/S
Ian Jones 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Again too slight.

shugsan 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Derek Graham 11/Oct/10 Lead
Old_Nick_S 09/Oct/10 Lead
with Debbie, Irene
dbell67 09/Oct/10 Lead
with Corey Bell, Stewart Lessels
stew85 09/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Elsier 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Michael, Ian
machars 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Aug/10 2nd
jimted 11/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Dave Mcnicol
PeteLoveless 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead
Ben Sharp 16/Jun/10 Lead
rabnud 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S

good route, seconded here

Skinny Kin 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Luke, Dan Hirst
Bex_M 05/Jun/10 Lead
with Duncan Dunbar
Roy Davidson ?/Jun/10 Lead

Enjoyable lead, glad to find the great jug just above the chimney

with Gordon Davidson
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd O/S
dbell67 23/May/10 Lead
with Corey Bell
Ben Sharp 21/May/10 2nd
machars 21/May/10 Lead rpt
g0rd0n davids0n ?/May/10 Lead
with roy davidson
ajsmith 29/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/10 Lead
dbell67 13/Apr/10 2nd
with David J McNicol
jimted 13/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Mcnicol
Mr.Billiams 11/Apr/10 2nd
with Russell
woah269 ?/Apr/10 2nd O/S
rebecca duxbury ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 20/Jun/09 Lead
with David Jones
Shaw Brown 20/Jun/09 2nd
with Loz
victim of mathematics 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
oliverk 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Michael
cat22 06/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
nukebat 19/May/09 Lead O/S
with Craig
stimpey 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Tom, Pete, Davina
petegunn 03/May/09 Lead
Timpy1584 03/May/09 2nd
with Davina, Pete, Steve
Hidden 03/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd
tim newton 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
johnbiggar ??/2009 -
Dumfriesneedsawall ??/2009 Lead O/S

Various times over the last year or so

net 01/Nov/08 Lead

Had a bit of a faff and rest on gear at point I should have started chimneying. Crazy route!

with George
GPN 01/Nov/08 2nd
with Annette
K_MacLeod 24/Aug/08 TR

Good warm up!

colinjjh 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
dave o 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S

somewhat short and overrated. in fact, i walked past it twice before discovering where the route was!!

with Bru
Hidden 08/Aug/08 2nd O/S
PeteH 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S

A fantastic climb, one of the best single-pitch VS's I've done. Felt fairly tenuous below the chimney, then some beautiful jugs in perfect positions, a happy little chimney perch and a spotless top-out slab, all with on-demand gear.

dhthomson 03/Aug/08 2nd

Absolutely brilliant stuff. The back and foot rest in the chimney is marvelous!

R0bbie 24/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with amy smith, johnny miller, danny sampson
ACB Smith 24/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with rObbie, johnny, danny sampson
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Lead O/S
K_MacLeod 08/Jun/08 Lead β
with Gavin Outerson
K_MacLeod 03/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Tried to lead climb, scarier than it looks.

with R0bbie
Fiona Reid 31/May/08 Lead O/S

Interesting throughout. Start was entertaining, chimney nowhere near as hard as I thought.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 31/May/08 2nd
with Fiona
elegant cheddar 24/May/08 2nd
with adam hughes
akhughes ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Jamie McCreath 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Nice route. can see why its one of the best at the crag. Thankfull of the big jug after crux ;-)

with machars
machars 13/Apr/08 2nd
beegsyboy 18/Feb/08 2nd rpt
with Sandy
andymoin 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Neil Mackenzie 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden ??/2008 -
Chris Davids 14/Oct/07 Solo O/S
with Malcolm
swmackey ?/Oct/07 Lead
thebat 15/Jul/07 2nd

Brilliant!- back and footing is the way to travel.

with Ontour + Fraserhughes
Hidden 31/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead
McKenna 14/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Ewan G
pigeonjim 14/Apr/07 Lead

Remember to Chimney the Chimney and not try to jam your way through it or you will fall off like me :D

with Andy
bawjaws 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Twas a wee bit of a fight.

with McKenna
decs 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hay ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Scott
beegsyboy 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Sandy
Hidden ?/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Matt crawford ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Taba
J R R Hartley 16/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Captain Crag
jonnie3430 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Beth
Howard J 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Excellent! A bit of a struggle but with bomber gear

with Richard Bonheyo, Helen Severn
K Wall 16/Jul/06 Lead
with Martin
Chris Plewa ?/Jun/06 2nd
with adam reid, mike varney
Simon Caldwell 29/May/06 Lead O/S

Fantastic stuff!

with Carmen
fatboy8pie ??/2006 Lead
breithorn4164 ??/2005 Lead
with Paul
Stuart Macfarlane 24/Apr/04 Lead
with Helen
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead β
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Inti 11/May/02 Lead
Captain Solo 06/Apr/02 2nd
Simon2005 04/Apr/02 2nd
with IainLD
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Dave Kerr 16/Sep/00 -
with Jill Kerr
Hidden ?/Nov/99 -
garethsteel ??/1998 Lead O/S
CMacD ??/1993 -
dsgibson ??/1980 Lead
Donald Gibson ??/1979 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, sarah hawker, Hidden, Thoms6974, crombie, JamSee
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Votes cast 36
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