Avon > Avon Gorge (New Quarry) >
Bitter and Twisted 7b

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[James on the last few moves of Bitter and Twisted traverse R to L(font 7b) at Avon Gorge (New Quarry), Bristol., 4 kb]The Wall underneath Dinosaur Beach is climbed on good, positive, but very polished finger edges until a span rightwards on the jugs of Dinosuar Beach sees the end of the hard climbing. Soft for the grade.
M Ward, G A Jenkin 11/Feb/1989

Photo: James on the last few moves of Bitter and Twisted traverse R to L(font 7b) at Avon Gorge (New Quarry), Bristol. © Beastly Squirrel
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This climb is in 82 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - TR rpt - 19/Apr/14

Couldn't link any of it first go on TR. Once the sequence is sorted though, it flows really nicely. Felt relatively straightforward on the RP.
Alex Winter - Lead RP - 20/Mar/14 with Joe

Bolt-to-bolted to suss it out. Bit too fagged to try a red point. Some classy moves on it - much better than it looks.
Alex Winter - Lead dog - 24/Oct/13 with Joe

Second attempt, wasnt sure about the gap between the first and second bolt
Dean177 - Lead RP - 14/Sep/13 with Mike

Boulder to first bolt
tombeasley - Sent - 22/Aug/13

Justin T - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Nancy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/13

Got to the first bolt. Once.
squicky - 2nd dnf - 04/Jul/13 with Neil

Rosea Day - Lead RP - Jul/13

Pulled off a jug and nearly killed Tom and Molly. Will come back for the lead.
DaveFidler - TR RP - 23/Jun/13 with Tom Sauter

Pretty sweaty!!
Garrouli - Lead RP - 19/Jun/13 with Ioanna

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Jun/13

yan hawkins - Lead RP - 27/May/13 with ron

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

ico - Lead RP - 2013

Re-work headwall - only dry part
Jon Didymus - TR dog - 12/Dec/12

middle section still seeping so worked the headwall.
Jon Didymus - TR dog - 05/Dec/12 with Nick

remembering the moves
Jon Didymus - TR dog - 07/Nov/12

1st RP today after looking at the moves.
Joe Innes - Lead RP - 22/Sep/12

tommytuffa - Lead RP - 09/Sep/12 with ollie b

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Apr/12

Took a ground fall from the second bolt :)
Joe Innes - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12

2nd redpoint, difficult to read but quality route!
Jack_F - Lead RP - 10/Mar/12

tombeasley - Lead RP - 22/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Jan/12

Hidden - TR dog - 15/Jan/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jan/12

j miller - Lead - 2012

Seeping badly today. Worked the lower wall. Took fall near the ground at 2nd bolt!
Jon Didymus - Lead dog - 05/Dec/11 with Rich

some good links
Jon Didymus - TR dog - Nov/11 with Nick

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Oct/11

First go, get sequence for lower wall
Jon Didymus - TR dog - Oct/11 with danp

Aaron Lines - TR O/S - 17/Jul/11

Hidden - TR rpt - 29/Jun/11

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead β - 19/Jun/11 with max

Dan Jenkin - Lead β - 14/Jun/11 with Tom Heslam

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Dan Jenkin

second go
Wendy - Lead RP - 11/May/11 with Tom Ball

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/May/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/May/11

JKinsella - Lead RP - 02/May/11

Hidden - TR dnf - 29/Apr/11

Had bouldered the start previously but never tried on a rope. Got a bit flash pumped, then got it 2nd go. Quite a good route despite the polish.
lukehodson - Lead RP - 13/Mar/11 with Little Tom

Been a project for more or less a year now. Great climb, just shy of 3 stars I'd say (even with the polish!).
adlamixion - Lead RP - 11/Mar/11 with eric herring

James Marshall - Lead RP - Mar/11

Hidden - TR dog - 02/Oct/10

archiecb - Lead RP - 25/Sep/10 with Max

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/May/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 27/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Apr/10

grey wolf - Lead RP - 15/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dog - 28/Mar/10

T ny - 2010

fatfingerz - 2010

First f7b, felt easy when I got it.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 05/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Sep/09

About 4 dogged attempts in the morning, then retreated when the sun came on it. Got it first go on return in the evening. Notgnarly also redpointed. Rich's excellent recommendation.
jelaby - Lead RP - 20/Sep/09 with Richard Hall, notgnarly

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Sep/09

Marti999 - Lead RP - 03/Sep/09

Did it about 4 times one week in Sept. Brilliant route. Easy 7b.
Richard Hall - Lead rpt - Sep/09 with Paul Meallor, Ian Lau

tombeasley - TR RP - 05/Jul/09 with Chris, Joyce & Beep beep

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Jun/09

deemed the first moves far too difficult but figured out the sequence eventually and dogged the route, repeated the top section on top rope. brushed the holds and rested. stuck it on the first redpoint. so pcyched!
shyster boulder - Lead RP - 10/Jun/09 with alex harper

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/May/09

Hidden - TR dog - 09/May/09

Laid seige to this!
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 29/Apr/09 with ewan

ToffeeSockScissorBitch - Lead β - 22/Mar/09 with Dick

richiebongo - Lead RP - 2009 with Nick Smith

Kneed Ben in the head after slipping off clipping bolt 2 trying to clip it.
Paz - Lead dog - 23/Nov/08 with BJ

IceMonkey1982 - 03/Aug/08

Paz - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/08 with WG

Bit of training after a proper soaking.
Paz - Lead dog - 09/Oct/07 with TS2

John Southworth - Lead RP - Jul/07 with Alex Jakubowski

Annoyingly I top roped it cleanly, and only lead it again afterwards by the skin of my teeth.
Paz - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/07 with TE2

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Jun/06

phsharpy - Lead RP - 08/Jun/06 with Pete Phillips

Felt more like 7b this time, but I'd forgotten the moves and was having a shit day.
Paz - Lead dog - 22/Sep/05 with FM, AS

Feels like 7a+ when it's sorted.
Paz - Lead RP - 05/Apr/05 with AS

Probably only 7a+ now start has been lost / filled-in!
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 24/May/04 with Dan Savory

Ally Smith - 2002

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ross.Cooper, tarn, Hidden, morphy richards

Total votes cast 50
hard 7b+0 of 26
7b+0 of 26
easy 7b+0 of 26
hard 7b0 of 26
7b8 of 26
easy 7b14 of 26
hard 7a+4 of 26
7a+0 of 26
easy 7a+0 of 26
3 Stars0 of 24
2 Stars14 of 24
1 Star7 of 24
0 Stars3 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead57 of 82 (69.5%)
Followed2 of 82 (2.4%)
Toproped18 of 82 (22.0%)
Bouldered1 of 82 (1.2%)
Unknown4 of 82 (4.9%)

'Climbed'6 of 82 (7.3%)
clean O/S4 of 82 (4.9%)
clean β5 of 82 (6.1%)
clean rpt9 of 82 (11.0%)
clean RP37 of 82 (45.1%)
dogged18 of 82 (22.0%)
dnf3 of 82 (3.7%)