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Bitter and Twisted 7b

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[Wendy Coles on Bitter and Twisted Traverse, 2 kb]The Wall underneath Dinosaur Beach is climbed on good, positive, but very polished finger edges until a span rightwards on the jugs of Dinosuar Beach sees the end of the hard climbing. Soft for the grade.
M Ward, G A Jenkin 11/Feb/1989

Photo: Wendy Coles on Bitter and Twisted Traverse © tom_Ball
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Good conditions in the am but it got quite a bit harder once the sun hit the polish
Jon Didymus - Lead dog - 25/Sep/14 with Paulo

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Aug/14

Cheese Monkey - Lead dog - 31/Jul/14 with Eric

Fun climb, how do shorties start this? Starting from right making a big move left to the first side pull? Got pulled up a few inches to the first side pull after that it went fairly easily.
najki_2000 - Lead dog - 26/Jul/14 with Chris Rose

Hidden - Sent dnf - 15/Jul/14

No seepage at last but hot and humid + polish = harder. Have a complete sequence now. Lead next time.
Jon Didymus - TR dog - 14/Jul/14 with Rich

afrosam - Lead RP - 10/Jul/14 with DaveX

DaveX - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/14 with Afrosam

Not bad really, the polish is just part of the route. Went pretty easily, bolt-to-bolt then a couple of abortive attempts on the start before successful RP. Hard to grade: bouldery start, a bit of sustained crimping then easy finish.
Nick Russell - Lead RP - 06/Jul/14 with Andrew

twem - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/14 with Nick Russell

Not bad considering I was cream crackered.
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 04/Jul/14 with Dave Pattinson

derico - Lead β - 03/Jul/14 with Sadact

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Jun/14

Second go today after working a couple of weeks ago. Fun bouldery route.
DaveX - Lead RP - 19/Jun/14

Once you accept the polish is part of the route, it's actually worth doing. Felt hard - 7bish.
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 18/Jun/14 with Tom Jordan

zcsharp - Lead dog - 25/May/14 with Joe Innes

LucasHarazin - Lead RP - 16/May/14

Hidden - Lead β - 14/May/14

Climbs suprisingly well
brices - Lead β - 13/May/14 with Llinos

First go today, after working it when gopping a couple of weeks back
cornishben - Lead RP - 13/May/14 with Gareth Pratt

Llinos C - Lead β - 13/May/14 with Simon Brice

A nice sequence of moves, pretty sustained, gonna try and get it clean next time.
zcsharp - Lead dog - 09/May/14 with Joe Innes

Joe Innes - Lead rpt - 09/May/14 with Jamie Roberts

Took a few goes - sopping wet holds!
DorsetGareth - Lead RP - 30/Apr/14 with Ben Sutton

grey wolf - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/14

Hidden - TR rpt - 19/Apr/14

Couldn't link any of it first go on TR. Once the sequence is sorted though, it flows really nicely. Felt relatively straightforward on the RP.
Alex Winter - Lead RP - 20/Mar/14 with Joe

Bolt-to-bolted to suss it out. Bit too fagged to try a red point. Some classy moves on it - much better than it looks.
Alex Winter - Lead dog - 24/Oct/13 with Joe

Second attempt, wasnt sure about the gap between the first and second bolt
Dean177 - Lead RP - 14/Sep/13 with Mike

Boulder to first bolt
tombeasley - Sent - 22/Aug/13

Justin T - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Nancy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/13

Got to the first bolt. Once.
squicky - 2nd dnf - 04/Jul/13 with Neil

Rosea Day - Lead RP - Jul/13

Pulled off a jug and nearly killed Tom and Molly. Will come back for the lead.
DaveFidler - TR RP - 23/Jun/13 with Tom Sauter

Pretty sweaty!!
Garrouli - Lead RP - 19/Jun/13 with Ioanna

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Jun/13

yan hawkins - Lead RP - 27/May/13 with ron

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

ico - Lead RP - 2013

Re-work headwall - only dry part
Jon Didymus - TR dog - 12/Dec/12

middle section still seeping so worked the headwall.
Jon Didymus - TR dog - 05/Dec/12 with Nick

remembering the moves
Jon Didymus - TR dog - 07/Nov/12

1st RP today after looking at the moves.
Joe Innes - Lead RP - 22/Sep/12

tommytuffa - Lead RP - 09/Sep/12 with ollie b

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Apr/12

Took a ground fall from the second bolt :)
Joe Innes - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12

2nd redpoint, difficult to read but quality route!
Jack_F - Lead RP - 10/Mar/12

tombeasley - Lead RP - 22/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Jan/12

Hidden - TR dog - 15/Jan/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jan/12

j miller - Lead - 2012

Seeping badly today. Worked the lower wall. Took fall near the ground at 2nd bolt!
Jon Didymus - Lead dog - 05/Dec/11 with Rich

some good links
Jon Didymus - TR dog - Nov/11 with Nick

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Oct/11

First go, get sequence for lower wall
Jon Didymus - TR dog - Oct/11 with danp

Aaron Lines - TR O/S - 17/Jul/11

Hidden - TR rpt - 29/Jun/11

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead β - 19/Jun/11 with max

Dan Jenkin - Lead β - 14/Jun/11 with Tom Heslam

7a?
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Dan Jenkin

second go
Wendy - Lead RP - 11/May/11 with Tom Ball

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/May/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/May/11

JKinsella - Lead RP - 02/May/11

Hidden - TR dnf - 29/Apr/11

Had bouldered the start previously but never tried on a rope. Got a bit flash pumped, then got it 2nd go. Quite a good route despite the polish.
lukehodson - Lead RP - 13/Mar/11 with Little Tom

Been a project for more or less a year now. Great climb, just shy of 3 stars I'd say (even with the polish!).
adlamixion - Lead RP - 11/Mar/11 with eric herring

James Marshall - Lead RP - Mar/11

Hidden - TR dog - 02/Oct/10

archiecb - Lead RP - 25/Sep/10 with Max

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/May/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 27/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Apr/10

grey wolf - Lead RP - 15/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dog - 28/Mar/10

T ny - 2010

fatfingerz - 2010

First f7b, felt easy when I got it.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 05/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Sep/09

About 4 dogged attempts in the morning, then retreated when the sun came on it. Got it first go on return in the evening. Notgnarly also redpointed. Rich's excellent recommendation.
jelaby - Lead RP - 20/Sep/09 with Richard Hall, notgnarly

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Sep/09

Marti999 - Lead RP - 03/Sep/09

Did it about 4 times one week in Sept. Brilliant route. Easy 7b.
Richard Hall - Lead rpt - Sep/09 with Paul Meallor, Ian Lau

tombeasley - TR RP - 05/Jul/09 with Chris, Joyce & Beep beep

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Jun/09

deemed the first moves far too difficult but figured out the sequence eventually and dogged the route, repeated the top section on top rope. brushed the holds and rested. stuck it on the first redpoint. so pcyched!
shyster boulder - Lead RP - 10/Jun/09 with alex harper

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/May/09

Hidden - TR dog - 09/May/09

Laid seige to this!
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 29/Apr/09 with ewan

ToffeeSockScissorBitch - Lead β - 22/Mar/09 with Dick

richiebongo - Lead RP - 2009 with Nick Smith

Kneed Ben in the head after slipping off clipping bolt 2 trying to clip it.
Paz - Lead dog - 23/Nov/08 with BJ

IceMonkey1982 - 03/Aug/08

Paz - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/08 with WG

Bit of training after a proper soaking.
Paz - Lead dog - 09/Oct/07 with TS2

John Southworth - Lead RP - Jul/07 with Alex Jakubowski

Annoyingly I top roped it cleanly, and only lead it again afterwards by the skin of my teeth.
Paz - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/07 with TE2

Davros the Psyched - Lead RP - 2007

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Jun/06

phsharpy - Lead RP - 08/Jun/06 with Pete Phillips

Felt more like 7b this time, but I'd forgotten the moves and was having a shit day.
Paz - Lead dog - 22/Sep/05 with FM, AS

Feels like 7a+ when it's sorted.
Paz - Lead RP - 05/Apr/05 with AS

Probably only 7a+ now start has been lost / filled-in!
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 24/May/04 with Dan Savory

Dan Savory - Lead RP - 24/May/04 with Paul Edwards

Hidden - 2002

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
J1_TOV, Hidden, Hidden, morphy richards

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard 7b+0 of 30
7b+0 of 30
easy 7b+0 of 30
hard 7b0 of 30
7b8 of 30
easy 7b15 of 30
hard 7a+5 of 30
7a+1 of 30
easy 7a+1 of 30
3 Stars0 of 28
2 Stars16 of 28
1 Star9 of 28
0 Stars3 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Lead81 of 109 (74.3%)
Followed3 of 109 (2.8%)
Toproped19 of 109 (17.4%)
Bouldered2 of 109 (1.8%)
Unknown4 of 109 (3.7%)

'Climbed'6 of 109 (5.5%)
clean O/S4 of 109 (3.7%)
clean β9 of 109 (8.3%)
clean rpt12 of 109 (11.0%)
clean RP46 of 109 (42.2%)
dogged28 of 109 (25.7%)
dnf4 of 109 (3.7%)