12m. Some vigorous undercutting across the width of the roof gives a good workout. The climb has been reduced in height to a new, lower, and much more healthy, double ring abseil station.
Gain the start of the ramp and follow it as steepens to reach the far right end of the capping roof. Follow a series of powerful undercuts to a more agreeable position at the left end of the roof then pull over onto the lip. Move up again and traverse right until a last step up reaches a new double ring abseil station.
Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with extra bolt added on the lip of the roof in 2012.

G A Jenkin, T Penning, M Corbett, A Tallant 18/Jun/1991

Robheirene 21/Aug Lead RP

Nails for the grade! Thought 6c+ in the topo was harsh. 1st RP by the skin of my teeth

Hidden 21/Aug Lead G/U
Alex Winter 29/Jul Lead rpt

Pulled a hold off near the belay and nearly hit Pauline on the melon.

with Pauline, Steve, and Liam
Kev Little ?/Jul Lead O/S
sideshow84 09/Jun Lead RP

1st attempt today, clipping, 3rd attempt in total

Hidden 09/Jun Lead RP
holister 04/Jun Lead RP
with lee
sideshow84 04/Jun Lead dog

2 attempts with rests, will go next time hopefully!

Hidden 04/Jun Lead dog
Tom Seccombe 18/May Lead RP

2nd go

with max goodman
Bates 12/May Lead RP
with Andy Brice
Bristoldave 02/May Lead O/S
with john
Dan Jenkin 20/Mar Lead O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
k_k 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 26/Jul/14 Lead RP

Finally! In the climbing masterclass. Steve said I just had to try alot harder so I did and it worked

with Brum guys, Steve McClure
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead RP
afrosam 17/Jul/14 Lead RP
with DaveX
Didymus 14/Jul/14 Lead dog

make sure the bolt over the lip is extended - edge is sharp!

with Rich
zcsharp 03/Jul/14 Lead dog
clams ?/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Jim
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead RP
Hidden 09/May/14 Lead rpt
zcsharp 09/May/14 Lead dog

Very interesting route, such a contrast between the top and bottom, definitely gonna try and get it clean next time.

LucasHarazin 30/Apr/14 Lead β
just one more 30/Apr/14 Lead dog
with lucas
Cheese Monkey 15/Apr/14 Lead dog

Got all the moves but so tired

with Iggy
squicky 15/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Too tough. Got to the lip then almost died.

with Ben
Hidden 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mkonca ?/Apr/14 TR dog

Feels harder than 6c.

with tommy
tommy.henriksson78 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 26/Mar/14 Lead dnf

I'll be back

with Helen
Hidden 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
Johnny Baker 26/Mar/14 Lead RP

Hard unless you spot the good holds over the roof. Rope running over the razor sharp roof edge was a tad unnerving

with Sam Richards
_m.cox_ 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Spacetourist 02/Aug/13 Lead
Tim M ?/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Phil T
Chubbard 31/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out how to get up to the overlap.

with Derek
BeccaSnowden 22/Jul/13 Lead RP

Took a few goes to get the tricky moves below the roof.

with Pippa
Rosea Day ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Climbed like a git and got very pumped.

with Ross
Garrouli 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ioanna
hankyc ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Very good climbing I thought, though it takes a bit of lateral thinking. Well worth climbing.

with Becca
Tom Brierley Gore 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt

There is a super efficient way of doing the top, trust me.

Tom Brierley Gore 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Just been re-bolted, with new lower off just bellow the bulge, don't think it really makes much difference. Tricky in places but over all quite a nice route i thought... bit surprised at the comments bellow. Be careful when lowering off... there are sharp edges, (best to abseil off)

Didymus 07/Mar/10 TR dog

Didn't like this at all

with Rich
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S


with Jon Didymus
Paz 25/May/08 Lead RP

Substantially more exciting than Dinosaur Beach, etc. A missing last bolt makes the adjectival grade (E3) seem apt, but a good cam 1.5 (a 2 will also go in shallow but it may get stuck!) is available down and right of the stub. I clipped the peg on the left and placed an optional rock/wallnut 4 on the right, and used the Eco above the roof on the right. The ab station was OK as they go in the New Quarry, but maybe bring some tatt and maillons or krabs if you're squeamish.

with WG
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/89 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mike lamb
High 6c+
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Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set