14m. An instant success and rapidly becoming popular. Lots of surprisingly good holds in the oppressive looking roof permit a relaxed approach. Start 4 metres right of the base of the ramp.
Step up into the short leaning corner from the left (bolt), move up and get your hands on the projecting ledge up above, bolt. Some pleasing moves directly up the mini-arete reaches the third bolt runner and brings you face to face with the main proposition. Span up leftwards to clip a hanging sling (placed for short-arses) and grasp a welcome jug. With protection from a second fixed sling on an adjacent bolt, pull through the bulge (crux) and finish more easily past a final bolt runner to a new double ring abseil station.

Re-cleaned, part of the roof demolished and re-equipped in 2012. Originally E3 6b the line gained the ramp using the obvious undercut pocket, pulled through the roof direct and summited carefully up the top wall. The new, more direct ‘aręte’ start added by Gordon A Jenkin on 24th February 2013.

G A Jenkin, T Penning, M Hopkins, R Goillon, A Tallant 29/Jun/1991

Gibbo 01/Nov TR
with Ed Wright
steve_gibbs 13/Oct 2nd rpt
with Max Coney
emdawes 27/Sep Lead β
with max ayrton
Bristoldave 01/Sep Lead O/S
with nick
Gibbo 18/Aug Lead
with Tom Sutherland
kenneM 13/Aug Lead O/S

Great route - really enjoyed it.

with Chris
steve_gibbs 09/Aug Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
steve_gibbs 16/Jul Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
vertigo 08/Jun Lead O/S
with Simon
pscholl 31/May 2nd rpt
with Tris
Bates 25/May Lead RP
with Andy Brice
Tim_C7 20/May Lead O/S
with Henry G
Hidden 12/May Lead dog
ChrisWills ?/May 2nd dog

Will come back and lead this. Holds on the overhang are nice and positive.

with Ben Warlow
Gibbo 26/Apr Lead dog
with Tom Gibbison
Cheese Monkey 24/Apr TR rpt
with Eric
ericinbristol 24/Apr Lead RP

Did it as an on sight but on reflection I have a vague feeling I might have been on it / done it years ago so will log at as a redpoint. Entertaining.

Gibbo 22/Apr Lead
with Tom Gibbison
hutchay 21/Apr Lead O/S
with Dave Clover
sideshow84 16/Apr Lead RP

1st RP didnt even get past the the sling first attempt but worked it out 2nd time round

Phil Murray 06/Apr Lead dnf

Devastatingly bad this time - barely dogged to long new sling, where I quit. Still feeling very flu-ey.

with Liz
JoeE 08/Mar TR β

Stiff moves once over the roof, great climb

RichyBOYY 06/Mar Lead O/S
with Joe
guy xavier percival 10/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with paul
Paul Robertson 10/Oct/14 Lead RP
Cheese Monkey 19/Sep/14 Lead rpt
just one more 19/Sep/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Bernard
J1_TOV 07/Aug/14 Lead β

Retro onsight, I've done it before. It's great fun.

R2B 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Paul
pheotleyr 23/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
DaveX 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Afrosam
pscholl 11/Jul/14 Lead RP
with TomJ
TomJ 11/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Pete
TomJ 29/Jun/14 Lead dog
with derico
pscholl 22/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Too knackered to pull through the crux on the jugs. Next time!

Stanners 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

wicked fun. Just about pulled through the groove..JUST!

Quarryboy 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I literally cannot see how this ever got English 6b when it had a trad grade, low end 6a tops but probably 5c. It does bring happiness to a climber when you find those nice jugs when pulling through the roof.

Hidden 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Clare Muir
steve_gibbs 21/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ollie Stevens
chrisscutt 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with ant
LucasHarazin 15/May/14 Lead β
catty_9 11/May/14 2nd

Overhang was hard, especially as tom pulled off the decent hold when he lead it

zcsharp 09/May/14 Lead dog
Joe Innes 09/May/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mkonca ?/Apr/14 TR dog

climbed at the end of the day. should lead next time, very nice climb.

tommy.henriksson78 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
hankyc ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
AndrewCollins ?/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Finan
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt
mallardhealhook 22/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Evhall
Nick Russell 19/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Bit of a one-move-wonder, as you'd expect from the ground. Right-hand pocket on the roof bit a small hole in my finger :(

with Helen
afrosam 09/Mar/14 Lead RP
Alex Winter 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Raining for most of the morning, but most of the routes on the left stayed dry.

Justin T 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
Spacetourist 02/Aug/13 Lead
Chubbard 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Derek
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JKinsella 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Alright route! Good (no hands) rests before and after the overhang, and huge jugs on the overhang, make it too easy for 6c. Probably is 6b+.

Phil Murray 25/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Another dog and quit. No confidence above the big blue screwgate. Wimp.

with Ian Law
Tim M 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Good climb ~6b+

with Steve W
Hidden 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

Bosh! Move fast and pull hard!

with Helen
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Phil Murray 05/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Too thuggy. Need to train in gym!

with Steve Wright
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
pheotleyr 30/May/13 Lead dog

french 6b / 6b+ probably, no really hard moves - i'm just weak on overhangs. really nice though, have to come back.

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 30/May/13 Lead dog

No hard moves just need to crank harder

with Peter
Alex Winter 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Some nice burly moved through the bulge.

with George
Tom Brierley Gore 13/May/13 Lead O/S

Bolted: hard 6b+ or 6c. Just because of the overhang... unless there is a less thugy way to do it. RE comments bellow, in the 2004 CC guide it's an E3 6a. Thought it was ok, preferred brutal dub to the right, seems more interesting.

thomb 12/May/13 Lead
James S 12/May/13 Lead dog

was raining so top half was wet. definitely no 6b moves in there, maybe hard 5c easy 6a. Probably f6c in its bolted state and well worth climbing.

with tom, caleb
BeccaSnowden 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Great fun

with Tom
thomasadixon 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Hard to imagine why it ever got tech 6b - 6b french seems closer. Very good climb though, surprisingly juggy!

with Becca
richiebongo 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Climbed the newly bolted line to the left of Brutal Dub which must be this but not english 6b more french 6b+.

with Nick Smith
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set