Avon > Avon Gorge (New Quarry) >
Stammheim* 6b

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[Watch your footwork: Al Hodkinson on Stammheim, New Quarry, Avon Gorge, 3 kb]19m. Retro’ed. Height extended to a new shared double ring abseil station. The most popular route on the crag. Originally E2 6a (climbing direct up the right side of the lower wall past two bolts). The line was retro-bolted in 2012.
G A Jenkin, M Ward, M J Crocker 11/Mar/1989

Photo: Watch your footwork: Al Hodkinson on Stammheim, New Quarry, Avon Gorge © Toby_W
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This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Expended all my energy getting to the third clip. Clean from there.
squicky - Lead dog - 15/Apr/14 with Ben

chrisscutt - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with oly

Gibbo - Lead - 10/Apr/14 with Jimbo Latimer, Tom Gibbison

mkonca - TR dog - 30/Mar/14 with tommy

afrosam - Lead dog - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Mar/14

Top rope. Tough at bottom - went left.. as usual .... still quite knackered from orienteering race that day.
Phil Murray - TR rpt - 22/Feb/14 with Lynne Williams

evhall - Lead rpt - 12/Jan/14 with Mike D

evhall - Lead rpt - 11/Jan/14 with jerzy

Cheese Monkey - Lead rpt - 09/Jan/14 with Shaun

Rest of the crag was gopping, couldn't try anything else! Really nice climb though, by far the best of the 6bish routes here.
JKinsella - Lead O/S - 09/Nov/13

pumpy - useful left side-pull at crux
evhall - Lead dog - 02/Nov/13 with goat

Originally an onisight. A few falls at bolt 3. First day of climbing after 3 month elbow injury layoff. Fitness has suffered. Or all the jugs have fallen off?
Kemics - Lead dog - 23/Oct/13 with Marta

quickdraws in place
clams - Lead - Sep/13 with PR

TomJ - Lead RP - 31/Aug/13 with Ben

k_k - Lead RP - 27/Aug/13

Justin T - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Nancy, Wayne

1poundSOCKS - Lead β - 17/Aug/13

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/13 with Matt Coburn

Gibbo - Lead - 13/Aug/13 with Kath Rosedale, Tom Sutherland

Spacetourist - Lead - 02/Aug/13 with no_need_for_lube_yan

Fought my way to top with plenty of rests
Feeling bold - TR dog - 17/Jul/13 with Tom

really enjoyed this
hms - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with kate

Lil_Pete - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/13 with Carly Michaels

katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/13 with tom kett

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 22/May/13 with George

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/13

Hidden - Lead β - 19/May/13

Climbed as a sport route.
squicky - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Peter

easier than I remembered. good.
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 12/May/13 with Neil

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13

k_k - Lead dog - 19/Apr/13

Now a very nice fully bolted F6b sport route. (probs more like F6b+)
Stanners - Lead β - 02/Feb/13 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

A sport route with plenty of character! hard section is low down although upper section has some slightly dodgy lose bits and is a little strenuous.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with JamesRich, Rob Stanfield

Very happy to get the impossible looking initial wall done clean. Lovely moves, shame the rest of route is a bit scrappy.
Cheese Monkey - Lead β - 24/Jan/13 with Adam, Eric

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/13 with Debbie

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Tom

steve_gibbs - TR O/S - 2013

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/12 with martin

Just failed at 3rd bolt. I'll get it next time... seems to be 2 5c moves in a row.
Phil Murray - Lead dog - 05/Sep/12 with Steve Wright

had to rest at the third bolt but clean to the top after that. rain was coming in so didnt go for another attempt, will come back soon for it though.
James S - Lead dog - 16/Aug/12 with peter

lazy top-roping after feeling quite weak on a failed lead attempt where i didn't even make it to the crux
pheotleyr - TR rpt - 16/Aug/12 with James

Quality. Hard parts are over by 4th bolt. Enjoyable; I'll be back for a lead attempt.
Phil Murray - 2nd RP - 20/Jul/12 with Steve Wright

Fully bolted. F6b.
ericinbristol - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Ali

Rebolted at about 6b and the much better for it.
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Jon Didymus

mallardhealhook - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/12

after a dogged lead attempt. tough F6b.
pheotleyr - TR rpt - 24/Jun/12 with Jana

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/09

Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 17/May/09

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/09 with Jon Hauser

KRB - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/06 with Martin Bridges

Bern - 2006

furry - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/04 with Neil

simon kimber - Lead O/S - Sep/03 with Tony Penning, Gavin Cytlau

Paz - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/03 with TS

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/01

Ally Smith - 2001

Was hardest Avon E2 according to the old graded list, found it much easier than some others!
gimmer - 2001

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

chris sm - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/98

lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/97 with tombawimba

Hidden - 2nd - 1996

AndySL - Lead β - 03/Jun/93 with Mark

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/92 with jon

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 27
hard 6b+0 of 7
6b+0 of 7
easy 6b+0 of 7
hard 6b3 of 7
6b4 of 7
easy 6b0 of 7
hard 6a+0 of 7
6a+0 of 7
easy 6a+0 of 7
3 Stars1 of 10
2 Stars4 of 10
1 Star5 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead53 of 66 (80.3%)
Followed3 of 66 (4.5%)
Toproped6 of 66 (9.1%)
Unknown4 of 66 (6.1%)

'Climbed'11 of 66 (16.7%)
clean O/S28 of 66 (42.4%)
clean β5 of 66 (7.6%)
clean rpt7 of 66 (10.6%)
clean RP4 of 66 (6.1%)
dogged11 of 66 (16.7%)