Avon > Avon Gorge (New Quarry) >
 
Heartbeat City* E2 5b

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16m. Varied and absorbing. Climb the open groove to a pair of peg runners (wires down on the left and immediately above). Pull up leftwards (various gear) then step out right onto the overhang to reach a peg runner and in-situ thread just above. Climb the right-side of the prominent elongated hole past a bolt runner (and good wire above) then finish delicately, with a quicker pulse, on much smoother rock to a shared double ring abseil station. Originally E2 5b. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with an extra peg added in 2012. Abseil station re-located to the left.
G A Jenkin, M Ward 12/Feb/1989
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

just one more - 19/Apr/14 with Max B

Without preplaced gear this time. Even though I wasn't fully recovered from being sick, this felt soft for E1 5b.
pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14 with Jana

Went left at hole first, re-lead it properly!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/13 with Peter

Led on Ben's gear. Lots of upper end 5a climbing, no proper 5b climbing I thought. And reasonably protected. Seemed pretty soft for E1 to me, but the preplaced gear might have helped.
pheotleyr - Lead β - 15/Oct/13 with Ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/13

E1 5b now
The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/13 with Stanners

Pleasantly surpising route for new quarry trad! Found it quite technical getting to the thread but only 5b.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Mark Davis

tat a decent chunk of rope, twin bolts above mentioned in the guide now appear to be a single new bolt. Some nice moves.
hms - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with kate

Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Nov/12

Judging by the cobwebs a neglected route but surprisingly nice climbing and solid rock for NQ. There are some good wires and micro-wires but the rotten tat and corroded pegs and mangled bolts needs replacing. Worth E2 in current state, maybe E1 if refitted?
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/12 with Rich

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with CarolineH

KRB - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/05 with Martin Bridges

Paz - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/05 with KF

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/05

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Nov/03 with Ady Short

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/01

Ally Smith - 2001

Snapped in-situ wire (by hand!)
gimmer - 2001

Hidden - 2000

chris sm - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead - 1998

The easiest E2 in the gorge? More like HVS.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/95 with Adam

AndySL - Lead β - 17/Jun/93 with Mark

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JamesRich

Voting
Total votes cast 20
hard E30 of 7
E30 of 7
easy E30 of 7
hard E20 of 7
E22 of 7
easy E21 of 7
hard E11 of 7
E12 of 7
easy E11 of 7
hard 5c0 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
hard 5b0 of 6
5b5 of 6
easy 5b0 of 6
hard 5a1 of 6
5a0 of 6
easy 5a0 of 6
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars0 of 7
1 Star5 of 7
0 Stars2 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent

Lead18 of 25 (72.0%)
Followed2 of 25 (8.0%)
Toproped1 of 25 (4.0%)
Unknown4 of 25 (16.0%)

'Climbed'6 of 25 (24.0%)
clean O/S15 of 25 (60.0%)
clean β2 of 25 (8.0%)
clean rpt2 of 25 (8.0%)