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|Avon > Avon Gorge (New Quarry) >
|End of the Line?|| E1 5a|
<< Sugar and Spice
Private and Confidential >>
|16m. Good value and a bit tricky in places following the line of least resistance through the steepening wall. Start one metre right of the green-railed fence.
Climb delicately up to a small bulge, reach over to a good handrail and clip a bolt runner on the right. Climb a short easy slab to a more menacing bulge (wire placement and two peg runners) then step left and pull over, crux, to ease into a small niche with a black borehole (good wires and optional big hex). Break out, up and right, into a comfy alcove (bomber gear) and step around a very sharp arête (take care with the ropes!). The shared double ring abseil station is just above.
Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned, with an extra peg and bolt added in 2012.|
G A Jenkin, T Penning, R Goillon 08/Dec/1991
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
hms - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Andy
Maybe HVS now with the bolt. Complex climbing but never difficult.
squicky - Lead O/S - 30/May/14 with Peter
Getting to the first (and only) bolt felt slightly scary today. Rest is steady climbing with lots of good gear.
pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/14 with Alex Roberts
mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 24/Dec/13 with Evhall
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/13 with Peter
Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13
Now another good HVS 5a. Start just to the right of the fences (passing the shiny new bolt low down).
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Nicky, Chris
Climbed by the light of the street lamps only. The fact that it was pitch black may have hidden some atrocities, but this felt the best of the 4 routes I did this evening - which doesn't say much.
KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/09 with Oliver Bridges
Ally Smith - 2001