|45m. The route was originally climbed with a fourth pitch which reversed down Just This Once and finished up Bushmen Donít Surf. Given the current dire state of Just This Once itís probably much more fun to just rap off and have an early lunch.
(1) 15m 5b. Climb Private and Confidential to a replacement abseil station shared with End of the Line?
(2) 18m 5b. Traverse leftwards (bolt on Sugar and Spice) to the replacement abseil station atop Heartbeat City. Continue leftwards past the new station of Fat, Tall and Small to a resting ledge on Night of the Comic Dead (pegs and cams) then pull up leftwards to its replacement abseil station shared with Van Diemanís Land.
(3) 12m 5c. Step around left into a pink-coloured scoop (cams). Swing left (hidden peg) and step down a tiny ramp to the belay ledge of Stammheim. Overhead protection from the new abseil rings now safeguards the climbing to reverse No CSC and cross the steep wall into the flake of No Strange Delight/No Crag for Old Men. Pull over the bulge above (bolts) to a ledge and final abseil station. Your second will no doubt welcome the offer of a back-rope through the abseil rings of Stammheim.
Route re-equipped, and with additional bolt protection, in 2012 by virtue of the lines its crosses. |
G A Jenkin, M Ward (AL) 27/Mar/1989