Social Criticism* E1 5b
[Social Criticism E1 5b , 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Photo: Social Criticism E1 5b © wayne clark
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This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/15

1st Trad Lead :)
Ravenonthewire - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Stuart

Hidden - Lead dnf - Jul/15

Luuuuuke - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15 with martin

shared lead with tom; tricky getting into the crack; I found a nut placement there then made the off balance move. You can get a rest under the overhang on a good rightward side pull hold.
halfwaythere - Lead - 16/Sep/14 with tom

necky start
steve phillips - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with evhall

clams - Lead - Jun/14 with Catherine

CatMc - 2nd dog - Jun/14 with clams

Lazytraveller - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/14 with Ric Elliot

Took a fall off crux. found it slightly awkward n tricky. I felt the social criticism haha
RichyBOYY - Lead dog - 24/Mar/14 with Aaron Martin, Jordan Smith, Jamie

Deviated from the line a bit - groove on the left was damp so moved up past the threads using the two-finger hole and a hold on the arete to the right.
will_benfold - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/13 with Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - 2nd - 08/Dec/13 with Will Benfold

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/13

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 24/Jul/13

Phil PBC - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with tom rogers, sarah jane d

gb05 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with James Matthews

A pretty sustained start, but eases off a lot once established in the hanging groove.
Nick Russell - 2nd - 24/Jun/13 with Alastair Begley

one fall at the crux
alastairbegley - Lead - 24/Jun/13 with Nick Russell

andycash - Lead dnf - 23/Jun/13 with Ray Sullivan, Ash

I thought this was a really good route. Definite 2 stars, better of the two E1's on this face. Burly start (didnt faff with thread) and then a nice exposed finish through the mini roof/groove.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Anthony

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Peter Rigby

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Jack keo, wildblood, chris irwin

beautifull route, with good powerfull but reasuring climbing and more protection than id have thought
cwildblood - 2nd O/S - 27/Oct/12 - 2nd - 16/Sep/12 with jamesca

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/12

Thuggy at the bottom, less so at the top but worrying nontheless
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with rich

jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Tony

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/12

Becky C - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Notsi, Fat Al

Was meant to do Side Effect but got lost and ended up doing this!
mikeyg - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Phil Pavey

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/12

Had to rest on the rope whilst trying to gain the main crack at the bottom of the route, plus carelessly slipped off near the top of the route.
Big Lee - 2nd dog - 12/May/12 with Richard Ashton

Tough start, had to rest.
Rick Ashton - Lead dog - 12/May/12 with Big Lee

Hidden - 2nd β - 18/Oct/11

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/11 with Helen S

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

Really nice route. Couldn't free the micro cam at half height. Wouldn't be able to lead it yet. Strenuous start.
Dave Ing - TR O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Nick H

nick hawkins - TR dnf - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - TR rpt - 04/Jun/11

Fairly tired before I started. Struggled a bit to get the layback/jamming sequence on the flake, but completely dogged the transation over the bulge due to poor footwork and extreme pump. Great after that - nice route
MariaT - TR dog - 04/Jun/11 with James Carpenter

Lapepina - TR - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/11

marclloyd77 - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Dean Bucknall

dean79 - Lead dog - 10/Apr/11 with Marc Lloyd

went back to do a direct clean climb of this route as last time i climbed off onto a ledge to rest.
jon_gill1 - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with chris Lyness

marclloyd77 - 2nd - 21/Nov/10 with Simon Crisp

pretty hairy in the moist/wet/dampness. foot slipped off when my waist was level to the thread but hung in there!!! nice route
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with marc lloyd

this is a pumpy little number for the first 10m, rest is fine and good fun
stvredmond - Lead - 26/Sep/10 with Darren Ross

Run_Ross_Run - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10

Was supposed to be a warm-up so rested at the crux to save getting pumped out.
saz_b - 2nd dog - 04/Sep/10 with Dugald

got pumped out at crux section and down climbed. climbed back up 10 mins later to the gear and got pumped out again, used the piller next to the thread to stand on and rest and then climbed back onto route which was a bloody hard move!good route but you need to be strong!
jon_gill1 - Lead RP - 15/Aug/10 with john beardmore

JimBee - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with Ian Whitehead

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 27/May/10 with Dave Frost

Had a long rest at the crux before committing to it! Rest of the climb was plain sailing in comparison. 1st E1 this year.
Chris Sansum - Lead dog - 03/May/10 with Richard Lade, Gary Lewin

gripped01 - Lead - May/10 with Rob Patchett

My first E1!
Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - May/10 with James Austrums

chalkiesurf - 2010

rests and lowered on rope
toasted - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09 with Pete Rogers

Nice climb good jugs on the start just a little pumpy.
gingergeorge - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Wayne

wayne clark - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with gingergeorge

hash - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Will Jones

First Attempt fell from above the diagonal flake after placing thread. 2nd attempt completed climb no problem!
tobyb - Lead dog - 07/May/09

Goofyfoot - 2009

Lots of positive belayer assistance.
Fatclimber - 2nd dog - 27/Sep/08 with Jason Garnham

jasclimb - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Steve Williams

DafSWMC - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Gareth

gejones - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with DafSWMC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08

chris sm - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Pippa Froggatt

shoulders - Lead - 03/Aug/08 with dai

Climbed with the mother of all hangovers.
Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/08 with David Gent

davidgent - Lead dog - 01/Jun/08 with Chris Sansum

I wonder which will happen first - the concretion holds snapping off the overhang or the overhang coming off the cliff!
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/08 with Mark

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Feb/08

Eccentric - Lead rpt - Oct/07 with Sarah (Crumbly Rubbish)

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/07

Peg boosted courage on the layback. V groove move felt bold until i did it and grabbed the good little jam. Top overhang a bit hollow but looked quite solid actually. Grabbed its jugs with much pleasure.
DrGav - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Dave

David Martin - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with DrGav

Morgan Woods - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Gareth

gimmer - 2nd - May/05 with Matt Telfer

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Tony Payne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/02

mikej - TR - 15/Jul/00 with Nick Salmon

Took several visits to get past the hard bit. Side Effects is better.
alan moore - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/96

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/93

Hidden - 06/Jul/93

3 Names - Lead O/S - 1993

RichardMc - AltLd - 27/May/92 with John Evans

sdht - 1992

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/90

nigehughes - Lead - Mar/90 with Gary Clough

GordonHart - TR O/S - 1990

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/89

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callumbtaylor, maherp

Total votes cast 53
hard E20 of 18
E20 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard E11 of 18
E113 of 18
easy E14 of 18
hard HVS0 of 18
HVS0 of 18
easy HVS0 of 18
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b2 of 16
5b11 of 16
easy 5b3 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars0 of 19
2 Stars4 of 19
1 Star14 of 19
0 Stars1 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP