Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The bald wall right of the Tigers Don't Cry corner is a difficult and serious lead. The original peg has now gone. From a low undercut, go up right and then leftwards to a big move right to a good hold. Go back left and up a flake and wall to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There was a peg protecting this route, which has now gone and may not be replaceable - hence the upgrade from E5 to E6 to reflect the current seriousness.
"I repeated this on saturday with some top rope practice the same morning.It is too bold to be only E5. E6 is the right grade, a fall from the last hard move will not result in a ground fall if the belayer is playing close attention." - Guy Percival
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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I'm Evil (Primeval direct)
Grade: E6 6c ***
(Wintour's Leap)