Direct finish up the shallow groove graded VS 4c *

R.N. Campbell 1957

Paul Roberts 17/Oct AltLd O/S
ModerateMatt 17/Oct AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Pretty sure I went the wrong way. After the Traverse at the start of pitch two I when up the slab (too far left I think) it was very unprotected near the top, any fall would have been in the 10s of metres.

Nomadguru 06/Jul Lead O/S
with Donas Jegat
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
mike_tamanawis 07/Jun AltLd rpt

Fun multi pitch practice.

with Alasdair Burns, Andreas B
Hidden 07/Jun 2nd
HelenWilson 04/Jun 2nd
with Drew
Hidden 25/May AltLd
sas 20/May AltLd

1st: Anna, 2nd: Me (went off route)

with Anna T
peterjph 19/Apr Lead O/S
bduffin 18/Apr 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr Lead
JosefGoeth ?/Apr AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr AltLd
Rollo Rolo 23/Mar Lead O/S
with Willie Sullivan
Hidden 21/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar AltLd
SkylarLobdell ??/2015 -
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead
sebbi30 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Very overgrown, first pitch was very poorly protected , second pitch starts with a very enjoyable traverse, the rest of the route was very over grown , protection was again sparse and the wet grass wasn't enjoyable.

with Nathan Porteous
Jenna91 ?/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Franco, Rob
Manix 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with Jude Gibson
Jude 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Quite limited protection near the bottom.

pamvdb17 24/Aug/14 Lead
with Lucy S
ClareM.123 30/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Far more overgrown than the first time I did it. Not clear where to go, very little gear, would not want to do if VD was your highest grade.

calum404 30/Jul/14 AltLd rpt

Lead P1, ran out the start a bit. Thought the overgrown corner could have been given severe.

with Joe McCarty, Clare McCarty
joem 30/Jul/14 Lead
with clure
sas 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Not sure what we actually climbed

with John A
adamholden 09/Jul/14 Lead β

First lead with no supervision.

with joey durkin
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
adamholden 26/Jun/14 2nd
with joey durkin
joeydurkin 26/Jun/14 Lead
glencoebob 30/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 24/May/14 2nd O/S
Roberttaylor 18/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/May/14 AltLd
jasthefras 08/May/14 2nd dog
Michael.paparakis 08/May/14 2nd O/S
montydog 08/May/14 2nd
markneilly346 01/May/14 AltLd O/S

First Trad Route Partner: Ben Lead first pitch Slightly damp

Poly pocket ?/May/14 -
Ross Alexander ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Tim Hamlet 26/Mar/14 Lead
alistairmontgomery ??/2014 -
Calum3610 ??/2014 AltLd
Andy Moles 03/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with Harry Mcg, Lou
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
ClimbingGlen 26/Aug/13 Lead

Wandering route with a wee spicy traverse at the ledge. multi pitch.

Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd
Shaw Brown 21/Jul/13 2nd
sgurr 20/Jul/13 2nd

Second trad climb of the day and of all time for me. Great fun, but loads of scraggly plants to manoeuvre round.

CyberTaff 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt

Only did the first pitch as went off route onto Beech Wall on the second pitch. That rib is very exposed and tricky for a VD.

with Scott Boswell
arose 17/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
GStone 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Not much gear!

with Steve Gladstone
Hidden 04/May/13 -
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 03/May/13 2nd
calum404 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

First multipitch.

ClareM.123 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
richy381 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Very wet in the corner made the route a bit slimey

Davy B 20/Apr/13 Lead
remi_mcm ??/2013 Lead
Jacks20 ??/2013 Lead
Mark-b-84 ??/2013 -
mike_tamanawis 07/Oct/12 Lead β

A little tricker on the first pitch than expected, with not much gear. Got a bit confused by routefinding on pitch 2. Could have done with taking the garden shears further up...

icedink 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S
markhammonds 29/Sep/12 2nd β

Khalid lead both pitches. 1st pitch seemed bold and did not have the jugs promised by the guide. Not sure he traversed far enough on the 2nd pitch, or finished up the right route. Good lead and enjoyable route to second.

with Khalid Abdulla
Saintly 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Jenny, Ross, Em
Katherine Ross 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and backed off the move off the move after the tree, but did it very easily on 2nd. A bit wet and slimey after the rain.

stafford101 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

A bit greasy from the drizzle but a nice line up the crag.

iansm 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Graham C
Ross Young 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rubi HWUMC
robahalliday 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
girlymonkey 27/Jul/12 2nd
with Stuart Irvin
jimontherocks 02/Jun/12 2nd
with David Barclay
Ellie79 05/Apr/12 Lead
with Carolyn
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Koon 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Not sure I was on the right route. Climbed both pitches in one go. Good climb! Protection was quite good I thought despite the book saying it is poorly protected.

aalper 18/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with debby
Hidden 17/Mar/12 2nd
Freddie 1 24/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

With direct finish to avoid crossing ropes with party on route to the right.

with Andyh83
Hidden 24/Feb/12 AltLd
cc_10 15/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with david mitchell
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Yourlead 28/Oct/11 2nd
with Graham Penny, Paul Freeman
Hidden 09/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Yourlead 24/Sep/11 Lead
with Graham Penny
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
SuperMike64 ?/Sep/11 Lead
fatbuoybazza 24/Aug/11 Solo O/S
CyberTaff 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

We split this into three pitches so everyone could have a go at leading. I led the first pitch (no gear and some tricky moves!!) with Mathew (2nd) and Grant (3rd). Nice route.

with Grant G, Mathew
LP ?/Aug/11 -

Good work by Dan on a bold first pitch - the guide must have been talking about scottish jugs. Nice traverse and then...erm... soil for hands... soil for feet... no gear... erm... Good job I'm a hero.

el diablo 27/Jul/11 AltLd
with Dave M
Hidden 19/Jun/11 AltLd
D_Wills 09/Jun/11 AltLd

lead P1, Parker P2, nice traverse

Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Ommuff 14/May/11 AltLd

1st pitch scary and poorly protected, but really nice moves across an exposed slab to the belay. Second pitch complete mystery. Was following Latter book, Mairi ended up on something way harder, but we can't work out what!

with Mairi Nelson
Mairi Nelson 14/May/11 AltLd
with Ommuff
whispering nic 30/Apr/11 2nd
with Pam, Al Reid
Rog Wilko 21/Apr/11 Lead

Several parts of this route are 4a or 4b and gear is poor. Worth MVS. Good climbing though.

with Debbie Wilkinson
TomPollock 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

After the traverse the SMC guide says "go leftwards up the slab". The Gary Latter guide says "go rightwards up slab". The SMC guide is correct!

Dustin 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
NickBrown 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

climbed direct instead of the long rightward traverse.

with Susan
nich0las 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ewan P
Ewanski 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Nick B
Susanj21 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
keith hal 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with John Bell
alan.rodger 10/Apr/11 2nd
with drew yule
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Emz ?/Apr/11 -
Sianny 25/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Al
andrew75 ??/2011 Lead
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
AG ??/2011 -
Mike Hatherly ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
rallymania 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

lead both pitches with Sarah second and Pete last

Blakclaw 30/Aug/10 AltLd
with Di G
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Brodie 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with mikey
jess 31/Jul/10 Solo O/S
with martin
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead
Adam N 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Very wandering climb. Strayed onto the adjacent climb up onto the grass ledges (sketchy "climbing" up there), finished direct.

with Pam
PeteLoveless 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
edkirkham 03/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
johnkeith 02/Jun/10 AltLd

Forgotten how good this was - I led pitch one. Andrew led pitch two - a good lead for someone inexperienced, very airy tracverse then long unprotected run out up slabs.

Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead
isi_o 02/Jun/10 2nd
andrewkeith 02/Jun/10 AltLd
Cacyn 21/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Tom Bain
jonnyhawkins1 17/May/10 AltLd O/S
with C J
smile 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
Hidden 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Roch 10/Apr/10 AltLd
with Rob Slack
treejamie 20/Mar/10 -
tomdude 08/Nov/09 2nd O/S

accidentally direct

with shawna, dan moore
Hidden 08/Nov/09 2nd
mark88 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Covered in wet slippery moss on the first pitch. The second pitch not a problem.

with Alex Vaughan
iansm 08/Oct/09 2nd

With Falkirk Outdoor

Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
jacobfinn 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Bit of a slippy, protection free 1st pitch. Good for scaring your seconds witless! Traverse was fun. 2nd pitch is a bit pants...

with Alan, jjax
crombie 13/Sep/09 2nd

one good leader, two seconds, two pitches what a carry on

jjax 13/Sep/09 2nd

terrified at start but more to do with leaders 1 bit protection falling out and thinkin if i fall im gonna hit the huge boulder to the left cause of rope swing.

with jason
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
rusty_nails 08/Aug/09 AltLd

I tried first pitch, head was way out, so bailed and let phil lead. I then led the 2nd pitch with no real drama

with Phil Hudson
daWalt 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

nice climb to the end of the traverse, then it gets a bit run out, grassy, covered in pine needles and generally unpleasant

with Lisa
simon_williams6 29/Jul/09 Lead O/S
decs 11/Jul/09 Solo
Snap 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Mis-read the route description and started up Morags First Steps to the Kestreal Crack flake, making the wet traverse across Beech Wall route too high, sketchy and serious. Set up a second belay where the traverse goes vertical.

with Matt
Only a hill 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Got lost and ended up sketching out on a thin traverse above a big void. God knows what I ended up finishing the climb up! Learned the valuable lesson that guidebooks are there as guides, not to attempt to interpret them to the letter...

with Isi Oakley and Jamie Bankhead
isi_o 01/Jul/09 2nd
with Alex Roddie & Jamie Bankhead
ged123 ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Jun/09 2nd
jason 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with karl
Hidden 09/Jun/09 2nd
Captain Solo 04/Jun/09 Solo
CMorris 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Ross Thomson
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Nevis_Ben 25/May/09 Lead
simon_D 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Kyle
Hidden 18/Apr/09 AltLd
cashley 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

first taste of leading here placement takes a while to adjust to

with helen g
glassford ?/Apr/09 2nd
with cashley
mastiffmat ?/Apr/09 Lead
robmack ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 Lead
with Chris Cracknell,Various
iangray ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Lisa P
graycj ??/2009 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
rusty_nails 04/Aug/08 AltLd rpt

Mel lead pitch 1, i lead traverese pitch

MelH 04/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

1st pitch lead by me, second by Adam.

B3nj1 21/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Champo
Champo 21/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with b3nj1
DundeeDave 14/Jun/08 Lead
rusty_nails 13/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Ellis 1st pitch, Me 2nd (inc traverse)

ellis1 13/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Led first pitch. Second pitch led by rusty_nails.Had to second pitch 2 during a heavy shower which made the traverse very interesting!

Rampikino 07/Jun/08 AltLd
with Cat
Hidden ?/Jun/08 -
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
gordon henderson 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

Kat and Chris

with Chris
KatieLowe 24/May/08 -
crisaitken 24/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 19/May/08 AltLd O/S
Champo 02/May/08 2nd
with Ginge
tim402 20/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with tommy
J Brown 22/Mar/08 Lead O/S
kbrown 22/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with J Brown
groovypiper ?/Mar/08 Lead
with Bob
Hidden 17/Feb/08 2nd
arose ?/Jan/08 2nd
with Matthew Phillips
mbarber ??/2008 Lead
with Tom
CalumC ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
TrollJester ??/2008 Lead O/S
with done many routes umteen times some solo
Hidden ??/2008 -
Boistelle 29/Oct/07 Solo
Badam 11/Oct/07 2nd O/S

A really nice climb, the first bit was greasy after overnight rain and not a lot of protection but good anyway.

with John Jackson
Ian Jones 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Gwydion ball and Pavla Pospichalova
steve.aisthorpe 12/Sep/07 Lead
with myles plant
climbinmunkey 11/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Helen
ellis1 18/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Irvine
RAK 06/May/07 AltLd
with Lauri
victim of mathematics 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Cornish Merlin 05/May/07 AltLd
Hay ?/May/07 AltLd O/S

Me 1st pitch

with Nigel
Judd_IV 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Vdiff - don't think so, must have gone off route on 2nd pitch??. Scared the life out of me.

with Cats
climber130887 12/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
steve.aisthorpe ??/2007 Lead O/S
with myles plant
alan wilson ??/2007 -
figfour ??/2007 Lead O/S
mterentiusvarro ??/2007 Lead
with Ellie
beegsyboy 05/Nov/06 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Eccie
Neil Mackenzie 05/Nov/06 AltLd O/S

done in the sweet orange light of a autumn sunset

with Tim
Hidden 04/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
thebat 04/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with Fraserhughes
DavPk 07/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch.

with Adam Henly
Yourlead 13/Aug/06 2nd
with Raymond Simpson
ruggystunts 20/Jul/06 Lead
with Kev
kjbix 20/Jul/06 -
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
frecro ??/2006 2nd
with malcolm h-s
Fergus Cuthill ??/2006 2nd O/S

Soloed the first pitch

with CalumC
the abmmc ??/2006 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Alan Taylor ?/Aug/05 AltLd
L Taylor ?/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden 16/May/05 AltLd O/S
the abmmc 16/May/05 AltLd
Hidden 25/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
davie.p. ??/2005 Lead
with Dave
CurlyStevo ??/2005 Lead

probably worth severe I find it harder to lead than kestrel crack, often poorly protected with hard moves for a vdiff anyways.

Hidden 04/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
dave o 04/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Julia H
Andy Say 18/Jun/04 Solo
Hidden 24/Apr/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
abbeywall ??/2004 -
with K
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
a_hein ??/2004 Solo
Hidden 31/May/03 Lead O/S
DundeeDave 19/Apr/03 2nd
with Keith Wilkinson
Hidden 26/Jan/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2003 -
barney_edin ?/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/01 AltLd O/S
greenroom ??/2001 Lead O/S
DundeeDave 20/Aug/00 Lead
with Shona, Keith Wilkinson
G0WEN5Y ??/2000 -
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Yourlead 01/Jun/99 Lead

With a direct finish

with Raymond Simpson
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 -
auld al ?/Aug/97 Solo O/S
Niall B ??/1996 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/94 AltLd
Yourlead 27/Apr/93 2nd
with Mike Assenti
Yourlead 16/Jul/91 Lead

Climber the direct Finnish at 4c

with Jim Hamilton
Yourlead 25/Aug/90 Lead
with Ric Gregory
Yourlead 24/Aug/90 Lead
with Ric Gregory
Yourlead 10/Jun/90 Lead
with Jim Hamilton
Hidden 20/Mar/88 Lead O/S
Dave Douglas 23/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
with my dad
rossn ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
with John Fitzpatrick
Gordon Stainforth 28/Jul/84 Solo

Get lost near top of route. Very serious, much the most serious route of the day. Very happy to top out.

amcleish ??/1984 -
Hidden 31/Oct/71 Lead
IanMcC ?/May/54 -
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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