Arrange gear, including clipping the old peg, then down to the deck for a rest. Go up on greasy pockets to the right of the peg, then traverse back higher, tricky on smooth flat holds, to the thread. Easier, excellent climbing above leads up to the very steep top wall, where a big reach off a sharp hold leads to a break, then easier to the top. Amazing pitch!

Ticklists: The Best of Pembroke.

Hidden 15/May Lead
Duncan Campbell 08/May 2nd rpt

Pleasure to do again. Felt pretty steady this time.

with Almadad
markalmack 08/May Lead O/S


Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Russell Birkett 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this, another excellent long pitch. Great crag.

with Tim Whitaker
pete johnson 11/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Dave Rumney
Dave Rumney 11/Aug/15 2nd
with Pete Johnston
Joughton 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

The most fun you can ever have on an E5!

Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
tash 01/Aug/15 2nd

First time in the Leap!

with ali k
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/15 -

awesome, favorite route of a good weekend

with ben
brunomarks 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Via direct start past peg (now very rusty but good gear not too far below). Really nice route - good honest climbing!

with Neil Lowry
Ramon Marin 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Really happy with this as it's my first proper E5 onsight coming out of the ice climbing season. No beta, but chalk helped follow the way of course. Felt pretty steady, all gear is bomber. A trad route for sport climbers, maybe 6c+ climbing. I assume the other E5's in leap are a whole different story though...

with viki harvey
NDD 23/May/15 Lead β
with tony stone
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
pete johnson 10/Apr/15 Lead dog


with BendyBennett
Tom Livingstone 09/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Oli Grounsell
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gary Gibson ??/2015 -
Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Mawson
Misha 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
dan gibson 30/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Misha
Apharri 29/Aug/14 Lead dog

Head not in it

with Dave Wharton
Wood for Trees 17/Aug/14 Lead

Fell off on the higher crux 15/08, lead clean today. Very happy.

dav 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Gill B
tim newton 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Had just belayed Tim on it but did most of it totally differently.. Gear beta at the start probably helped a little.

Duncan Campbell 15/Aug/14 2nd
with GuyVG
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
danJBA 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
quiffhanger 21/Jun/14 Lead β

Brilliant! Led shortly after belaying Conor on it, so pretty stress-free with all the beta.

with Conor
Jack_F 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Remus
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Adam Booth 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Ed Booth 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
anguskille 19/Apr/14 2nd β
Tom Livingstone 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fennerz 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Kille
phil64 ?/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with tom livingstone
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead O/S

Mono undercling! So hard!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Sam Underhill
Ed morris 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

E4 into E3, with a hands off rest inbetween.

with stefan
shoulders 30/Aug/13 TR O/S

Wet in the pockets and the traverse back left after the detour on the right

with jon shewring, mike shewring, andy sharp
Adam Booth 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Damp at the bottom which made the move left hard. Easier higher up. Great combo!

with Matty Rawlinson
soph 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead β
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
steve_yo 24/Aug/13 Lead
Ricky Rocks 24/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Pete the Vet
brices 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant, First E5?

Daniel Heath 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Messy lead. Heavy rain but fairly sheltered. I got incredibly pumped very quickly by the peg. Climbed direct to the peg then right. Foot slipped and nearly fell on the traverse left. The rest of the route is absolutely awesome, and the juggy finish is thrilling!

with Remus
Hidden 14/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mark20 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
david morse 30/Aug/11 Lead β

Flash. Abseiled the line last year to clean kit, also had a look at the top thread before the send. Second route on the west it the best wall in the UK?

with lole
datoon 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with K
thomasadixon 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Go around right version at the bottom of JAD. Really good climb!

with Mike
redjerry ?/Aug/11 TR O/S
Billg 03/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Will Calvert
colesy 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S

With Si T

Luke Brooks 26/Apr/11 2nd
with John Orr
Pete Graham 25/Apr/11 2nd
dan gibson 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
feilx 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
phil64 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Shauna 01/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Jules
Ricky Rocks 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Tough start, leads into sustained pitch, fab climbing throughout.

morganator 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Ian Parnell 25/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with Tim Emmett
jfreeman 03/May/08 2nd
with Ben Freeman
bfreeman 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Freeman
Alex Mason 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Excellent. First E5 (hard E4), was very aprehensive at first but once id arranged some gear at the start and come back to the deck it was steady enough to the top. F6c, not pumpy and more than adequate gear.

Ram MkiV 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Prevaricated on scorch the earth's crux for a while. Great moves.

with Dan
Hidden 16/Aug/07 Lead β
keefe 26/Aug/06 Lead
with Tansy
AlexRenshaw 26/Aug/06 2nd
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dog
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
valecoastclimber 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Davros the Psyched ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/00 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 05/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Gregory ?/Aug/97 Lead β

had lead JAD and STE a year or two before

with guy exley
Steve Crowe 01/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with KM
Hidden 26/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ??/1991 Lead O/S

Another contender for first E5. Soft at grade.

whispering nic ?/Aug/90 Lead
with Blaggy
William Robertson ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 07/Jul/87 -
steve L 22/May/84 Lead O/S
with Clive Curle
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, theomoore, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Jon_dL, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Kyuzo
High E6
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
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Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 39
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set