UKC

57m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine and relatively friendly introduction to the delights of the Great Zawn, having plenty of atmosphere and outstanding climbing on its first pitch. Start right of the abseil approach at a narrow corner/groove that leads to a thin crackline in the smooth wall.
1) 5a, 32m. Climb to, and then up the difficult corner/groove to better holds in the crack. Ascend the crack to a move right into a small corner, and climb past a horizontal break to a stance.
2) 4b, 25m. Head up right to below a steep corner and climb this to finish on easier ground. Some loose blocks. © Rockfax

FFA. Pat Littlejohn, Frank Cannings 23/May/1970.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Adventure ticklist 2018 , HVS Cornwall , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Tommy Gunns hitlist , Cornwall - October 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 18 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First time to Great Zawn we found the approach descriptions unclear... follow the Commando Ridge approach to the bottom of the blind step down which is about 15m below the top of the optional abseil. Head west along the contour across boulders to the large clean platform. Abseil from the far west end of this platform - about 18m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First time to Great Zawn we found the approach descriptions unclear... follow the Commando Ridge approach to the bottom of the blind step down which is about 15m below the top of the optional abseil. Head west along the contour across boulders to the large clean platform. Abseil from the far west end of this platform - about 18m.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Archangel

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Black Head Area)

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