Deja Vu*** E4 5c
[I've been here before!, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
The upper, thin blank wall of the Seaward Face is overcome by this airy, sweeping line located directly above the narrow strip of blue water at the bed of the zawn. Start by negotiating 'The Crevasse' and then traversing 7m to a stance in a small corner.
1) 5b, 22m. Traverse right, around the arete into another corner and then up a few metres, from where a rising traverse left, back around the arete and across the wall leads to a break. Climb the short corner above to a good belay ledge.
2) 5c, 30m. Traverse right from the belay to below a steep high-angled slab and climb this boldly to an easing at a left-trending shallow ramp-line. Follow this to the overhang above and move to its left end before working back right again above it to cracks that lead to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Deja Vu 50 metres E4 6a 3-star

One of the best harder grade routes in Cornwall; stylish climbing with sparse protection. First climbed by American legend "Hot" Henry Barber with Great Zawn and South West pioneer Frank Cannings. A pure on-sight ascent of great boldness and style.

The climb takes the distinctive black "slab", really a wall, in the centre of the wall between Zarathustra and The Dream, to the right of Green Cormorant Face.

Start by abseiling to the large ledge beneath Variety Show then make the scary leap across the chasm to the small ledge beneath Green Cormorant Face. Belay at its far right end.

1. 20metres. 5b. Move up right to a groove (also on The Dream). Climb left around the blunt arete and continue diagonally left to a short open-book corner, which leads to the belay at the top of pitch one of Green Cormorant Face.

2. 30 metres. 6a. Traverse right into the centre of a steep black slab/ wall, and climb directly and delicately to reach a slim ramp-line (also on The Dream) that runs up leftwards. Follow this then the deep slanting crack in the small overhang above; then move right along the line of a horizontal crack to take a weakness in the exposed wall above to a small stance. Belay here to get a good view of your second or continue up slabs and blocks to the top.


Henry Barber and Frank Cannings May/1974

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: I've been here before! © Chris Craggs
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Led pitch 2. Mega classic route and certainly one of the best routes I've done this year. The crevasse jump is bonkers. Thought pitch 2 was quite necky and not piss either! Made even better by the fact Frank Cannings was at the Cornish climbing meet and told us about doing the FA with Henry Barber who led to the ramp on dream/liberator with no runners - respect!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Robbie

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

Made all the more interesting due to having heard stories about the first ascent earlier that day from Frank Cannings
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 2015 with Duncan Campbell

lead p1
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/14 with gwen

ellis - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Dave Musgrove

Great fun
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Ellis Ash

Hidden - 2012

Marcus - 2011

tuftynick - 2008

feilx - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Bern

Scary!
Bern - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Felix

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/01

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/99 with jim

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/96

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/91

keefe - 1990

andy gittins - 1990

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/87 with Elaine Owen

Billg - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/87 with Keith Sharples

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/85

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
phil64, derekb

Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard E50 of 5
E50 of 5
easy E50 of 5
hard E40 of 5
E43 of 5
easy E42 of 5
hard E30 of 5
E30 of 5
easy E30 of 5
hard 6a0 of 5
6a1 of 5
easy 6a1 of 5
hard 5c1 of 5
5c2 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
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