UKC Logbook Description Deja Vu 50 metres E4 6a 3-star
One of the best harder grade routes in Cornwall; stylish climbing with sparse protection. First climbed by American legend "Hot" Henry Barber with Great Zawn and South West pioneer Frank Cannings. A pure on-sight ascent of great boldness and style.
The climb takes the distinctive black "slab", really a wall, in the centre of the wall between Zarathustra and The Dream, to the right of Green Cormorant Face.
Start by abseiling to the large ledge beneath Variety Show then make the scary leap across the chasm to the small ledge beneath Green Cormorant Face. Belay at its far right end.
1. 20metres. 5b. Move up right to a groove (also on The Dream). Climb left around the blunt arete and continue diagonally left to a short open-book corner, which leads to the belay at the top of pitch one of Green Cormorant Face.
2. 30 metres. 6a. Traverse right into the centre of a steep black slab/ wall, and climb directly and delicately to reach a slim ramp-line (also on The Dream) that runs up leftwards. Follow this then the deep slanting crack in the small overhang above; then move right along the line of a horizontal crack to take a weakness in the exposed wall above to a small stance. Belay here to get a good view of your second or continue up slabs and blocks to the top.
Led pitch 2. Mega classic route and certainly one of the best routes I've done this year. The crevasse jump is bonkers. Thought pitch 2 was quite necky and not piss either! Made even better by the fact Frank Cannings was at the Cornish climbing meet and told us about doing the FA with Henry Barber who led to the ramp on dream/liberator with no runners - respect! Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Robbie