|Deja Vu||E4 5c|
|The upper, thin blank wall of the Seaward Face is overcome by this airy, sweeping line located directly above the narrow strip of blue water at the bed of the zawn. Start by negotiating 'The Crevasse' and then traversing 7m to a stance in a small corner..|
1) 5b, 22m. Traverse right, around the arete into another corner and then up a few metres, from where a rising traverse left, back around the arete and across the wall leads to a break. Climb the short corner above to a good belay ledge..
2) 5c, 30m. Traverse right from the belay to below a steep high-angled slab and climb this boldly to an easing at a left-trending shallow ramp-line. Follow this to the overhang above and move to its left end before working back right again above it to cracks that lead to the top. © ROCKFAX
Deja Vu 50 metres E4 6a 3-star One of the best harder grade routes in Cornwall; stylish climbing with sparse protection. First climbed by American legend "Hot" Henry Barber with Great Zawn and South West pioneer Frank Cannings. A pure on-sight ascent of great boldness and style. The climb takes the distinctive black "slab", really a wall, in the centre of the wall between Zarathustra and The Dream, to the right of Green Cormorant Face. Start by abseiling to the large ledge beneath Variety Show then make the scary leap across the chasm to the small ledge beneath Green Cormorant Face. Belay at its far right end. 1. 20metres. 5b. Move up right to a groove (also on The Dream). Climb left around the blunt arete and continue diagonally left to a short open-book corner, which leads to the belay at the top of pitch one of Green Cormorant Face. 2. 30 metres. 6a. Traverse right into the centre of a steep black slab/ wall, and climb directly and delicately to reach a slim ramp-line (also on The Dream) that runs up leftwards. Follow this then the deep slanting crack in the small overhang above; then move right along the line of a horizontal crack to take a weakness in the exposed wall above to a small stance. Belay here to get a good view of your second or continue up slabs and blocks to the top.
Henry Barber and Frank Cannings May/1974
Photo: I've been here before! © Chris Craggs