Dream Liberator*** E3 6a
[Ash and Rich on the Dream Liberator., 1 kb]

Rockfax Description
One of the region's greatest climbs that wends its way up the sensational arete dividing the Seaward and West Faces of the Great Zawn. The climbing is at the very upper limit of the grade. Start by negotiating 'The Crevasse' and then traversing right 7m to a stance in a small corner. Photo on page 213..
1) 5a, 9m. Traverse right, around the arete into another corner and ascend this to a stance just above..
2) 6a, 23m. Climb up the corner and then swing right at a horizontal break to below a right-leaning groove. Make some tricky moves up its right wall to below an overhang and pull leftwards through it, hard, to a thin crack in the wall above it. Follow the shallow ramp-line up the wall to a break, and traverse this right,past a peg, to a hanging stance on a foot-ledge just around the arete. The belays are hard to find but there is a good large cam in the crack above the stance..
3) 5c, 32m. Climb the steep cracks and narrowing small corner above until a sensational traverse right, below an overhang, can be made into the base of a long corner and thin crack. Follow this and the continuation groove to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Photo: Ash and Rich on the Dream Liberator. © Virgil Scott
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

Misha - AltLd - 07/Sep/14 with Eszter

Absolutely amazing climbing, but that crux is hard! I led the middle pitch and barely held on, I've had an easier time on E5s. Stunning route all the he same, much more committing that the grade would suggest.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/14

lead p1&2. got dark on p3. was fully shitting it. may have pulled on a few slings, but i couldnt see any holds so im saying it was onsight!
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with gwen, james marjot

Fell seconding P2. Just made it up P3 on lead, came very close to falling on Ross's head.
theotherpetehill - AltLd dog - 09/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar

Brilliant! Crux didn't feel e3 to me but was greasy so maybe ok in better conditions. Terrifying 5mins excepting Pete to fall on top of me as he sketched up P2.
quiffhanger - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Peter Hill

Lead the crux pitch, found the crux absolutely desperate
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with jon stewart

ellis - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Dave Musgrove

Fantastic to be out on a proper sea-cliff again. Exciting crux
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Ellis Ash

mike mo - 2014

Had to rest on p2 and p3 - it turns out altitude training isn't great for your rock climbing!
Adam Booth - AltLd - 19/May/13 with Rob Greenwood

Came off seconding roof and nearly got hit by falling block as the rope tensioned above and pulled peg and block off! Pretty damp.
Ed Booth - 2nd - 17/May/13 with PJ ( Belgium), Jon Redmond

Pieterjan De Roo - Lead O/S - 16/May/13

One of Adam's first routes back after climbing Everest
Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd - May/13 with Adam Booth

Bob - 2012

Hidden - 2012

billb - AltLd - Jul/11 with Graham A

Committing as hell to start (especially starting at 9 O'clock at night!) then damn hard moves on the crux pitch (which I sadly fell off). Pure class. Finished in darkness, thank god for the head torch!
thomasadixon - AltLd - 23/Jun/11 with Mike

Graham Atkins - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with will boxen

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011 with thomasadixon

Exciting jump to start but that's only the beginning! Crux felt hard and bold but what a stupendous pitch. Got back to the bags just as the light faded and in time to rescue the abb rope (and Matt's jacket) from the ocean.
alaan - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Mat

What a route. Epic to get to it. Two cracking top pitches. Felt my mojo on lead seeping back a little on this after forcing myself to commit to layback at start of my lead on 3rd pitch. Middle pitch is something else. Thanks for the ride Al !
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Alan Royle

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10

Harald - Lead O/S - 14/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

lukehunt - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Bl@ckhawkjac

nic42 - AltLd - 16/Jun/09 with Jack, Luke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/09

datoon - Lead dog - 12/Apr/09 with RT

tuftynick - 2008

Excellent route. Superb commitment right from the initial jump across the zawn. Crux moves were easier than expected but the tat was very dubious. A long held ambition that fully lived up to expectations.
KRB - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/07 with Martin Bridges

We had difficulties with the crux of the second pitch - I don't remember it being that hard. Stu crossed the roof very slightly below the point at which Rowland Edwards is pictured in Extreme Rock, but took a couple of falls onto the manky insitu gear first. I failed at this point and went left about 6' lower which seemed more reasonable but still hard.
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 12/Apr/07 with Stu Bradbury

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/06

Just awesome!!! Great seacliff/zawney climbing.The jump isn't that bad-altho I went first with a belay...mm! A grand afternoon out.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Ash

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2006 with Great place...I love it

switch - Lead O/S - 2006

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2003

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/02 with Chris Reid

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000

Tim M - 2000

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/99 with jim

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1999 with Lee Clement

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/95

Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/91

keefe - 25/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 25/May/91 with keefe

Hidden - 1990

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 16/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

Mike Owen - 18/Aug/87 with Elaine Owen

keith led P2
Billg - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/87 with Keith Sharples

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/87

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 28/May/85 with Gordon Jenkin

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/84 with Ian Milne

Mark Kemball - Lead - 20/Jun/83 with Mike Arnold

Hidden - 1982

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/80

Paul Clarke - 1980 with FMC

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ChrisBrooke, Tom McCabe, Graham Booth, Alex the Alex, Justin T, Motown, runninginclouds, DubyaJamesDubya, Kemics, richardr, Chad123, Just Another Dave, JackHatton, Ray Sharples, Ian Jones, PaulHermes, erinbastian, willotheward, Dan_Carroll, daviesdan, Skinny Kin, lukea, alaan

Total votes cast 49
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